Type_zero

Alright, I got the old motor out on my S5 and I'm in the process of putting the new one in.

I've got it lowered down and lined up with the bell housing, and was getting everything ready to bolt up. Then I hit a problem, I have a gap of 1 inch all the way around, and my g/f pushed down on the clutch pedal accidentally and it won't return. Do I not have the input shaft lined up correctly? or do I need to raise the engine up in the front? I really need some help here.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Manually pull the clutch pedal up by hand. Hopefully it's that simple and there is nothing going on with the throwout bearing-I've never had that problem before.

If the gap isnt too big, you can use one of the longer bell housing bolts---get it to catch a thread, then tighten it and the motor will slowly mate to the tranny.

Type_zero

thanks, ill give that a shot

its times like these that make me wish i had some $$ and could have someone else do it.....or at least a better shop

MonkeyMagic

I had the same problem. The gap is the release/throwout bearing pushing up against the clutch. Do what goodfellafd3s said, if that does work, open up the bleeder on the slave cylinder and push the release bearing back.

base86rotary

How does the piolt bearing look?

Type_zero

same as the one on the old engine

motor mounts line up now, but the gap is still there im about to this thing

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

tranny supported with a jack? ...angle might be off a little. is the gap the same all the way around the bellhousing?

have u been turning the motor over by the crank bolt and you wiggle the motor around and push on it? ...output shaft splines might not be lining up with the clutch splines

-Ryan

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

did u get it in?

Type_zero

not yet, had to go to work on an emergency, I'll try again tonite

Type_zero

Found out something....the pilot bearing on my old engine is about 1-2 mm wider than the one on the engine I'm puting in.....So I'm gonna have to get the old one out, and put it in the new one.......BTW, anyone know what size socket to use on the flywheel nut? The nearest Mazda Dealer is 60 miles from here and I really dont want to buy an SST.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

flywheel nut is 2 and 1/8th size socket, at least for an FD it is. I believe that converts to 54mm. It's a big ****

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Oh, and good luck getting that pilot bearing out without the proper mazda SST. you can rent one from autozone, but the 'fingers' on it are too long and you will prolly have to grind them down a bit for the tool to fit inside the pilot bearing. to install the new one, grease it up and use a same-diameter long diameter impact socket (with a rag under it) and a hammer to get it in. don't forget about the dust cover!

Type_zero

Alright, got the new pilot bearing in (thats the benifit of working in a trucking shop), now I know this is gonna sound stupid, but should there be any play latteraly on the clutch? It's been forever since I did clutch work and need to make sure for saftey's sake.

MaxRX7

What do you mean by latteraly play on the clutch?

Type_zero

latteral...meaning side to side free movement, i torqued the cover bolts down to spec and the clutch assy. doesnt move

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Clutch disc should not move. As it sits now is how it will sit when the clutch pedal is released.