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Ecu Code 13 and 33 Need Advice

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Old 06-27-14, 03:14 PM
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Ecu Code 13 and 33 Need Advice

I recently took my car to the car wash and gave the engine bay a vigorous washing. When I got back home my check engine light is on and when I checked the codes, these were on:
13 - Pressure Sensor (intake manifold pressure), and the
33 - Solenoid, Port Air Valve lights on.
I disconnected and the reconnected the plugs and vacuum lines on both and then cleared the ecu by disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds. Light still came back on. Car doesn't feel weird, but I don't like lights on my dash.

I did some digging and from what I can tell is that the code 33 is from the acv valve and is related to emissions. You cant buy a new one anymore (according to mazdatrix) and I still have all the emissions junk on my s5 because they run the ports.

Any thoughts on my next step? Thanks in advance.
Old 06-27-14, 05:14 PM
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have you checked the connectors at those parts..for moisture from your "vigorous washing"?
Old 07-01-14, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
have you checked the connectors at those parts..for moisture from your "vigorous washing"?
I waited a couple of days to make sure they were good and dry, then I disconnected the battery again to try and clear the codes and when I took it for a drive again the light came back on. I'm getting ready to do some work to the intake manifolds (port matching and ceramic coating) and I'm going to replace all my vacuum lines, instal atkins port inserts, and clean 5th and 6th ports at that time. I think that might take care of the code 33 light, at least I hope.

From what I have read, one problem might cause a number of codes to go off. Any Other ideas on whats up?
Old 07-01-14, 07:12 PM
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At the Boost Sensor there are three wires. W/the vacuum hose disconnected the Green/Yellow wire should read 2.2 to 2.5 volts w/key to on. The Brown/White wire reads 4.5 to 5.5 volts w/key to on. The Brown/Black wire is a ground and should read 0 volts w/key to on.
Old 07-02-14, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
At the Boost Sensor there are three wires. W/the vacuum hose disconnected the Green/Yellow wire should read 2.2 to 2.5 volts w/key to on. The Brown/White wire reads 4.5 to 5.5 volts w/key to on. The Brown/Black wire is a ground and should read 0 volts w/key to on.
Ok, so I assume if I am not getting those readings, then I either have a sensor that is out of whack, or something upstream. I will grab a voltmeter from work and check those numbers tonight. Just out of curiosity where did you get those figures?
Old 07-02-14, 06:09 PM
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Yes, and the FSM.
Old 07-09-14, 02:26 PM
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I finally got around to testing the boost sensor and I'm getting ok readings on all of them except the green wire. That one is reading 4.8 volts instead of 2.2-2.5. So I assume time for a new map sensor.

Thanks for your help!
Old 07-09-14, 02:53 PM
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It would appear so but make sure the ground wire is behaving as a ground. You can back stab the ground wire in the plug w/another wire and run it to the negative battery terminal and recheck the voltage values at the sensor and if the Green/Yellow still gives you the same reading then it needs to be replaced. If the ground wire in the sensor was not grounding then the voltage off of the vref wire could bleed through to the wire you measured as being inaccurate thus giving you a false reading.
Old 07-09-14, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
It would appear so but make sure the ground wire is behaving as a ground. You can back stab the ground wire in the plug w/another wire and run it to the negative battery terminal and recheck the voltage values at the sensor and if the Green/Yellow still gives you the same reading then it needs to be replaced. If the ground wire in the sensor was not grounding then the voltage off of the vref wire could bleed through to the wire you measured as being inaccurate thus giving you a false reading.
I grounded it out to the battery and it still got the same reading. Off to the for-sale threads I go!
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