Hi this is my second time trying to remove the bolt. The first time I managed to get it off by using a 500lb/ft impact wrench @135psi and it barely came out. This time (on a different engine) it is not working at all. Should I heat it up (the engine is out of the car btw) or will the heat damage anything?

 

Good grief! 500lb/ft+ and it STILL won't come off? The only thing I can think of that would be damaged by heat would be the rear oil seal, or whatever that seal is just on the other side of the nut.

I dunno. Just keep trying it I guess.

 

my friend after breaking countless, breaker bars, now puts the motors in a press. we found what works is if you get a breakers bar and hit it with a jack handle, the shock will break it loose

mike

 

I had a impact wrench on 400psi of compressed air and it didn't do dick. I had the engine out of the car too, so I put the engine in a giant press (at work) and I used a 5ft long breaker bar to get mad leverage on it. It will come out if you can just figure out how to hold the block still and get a big enough breaker bar.

 

if you have a counter balance and flywheel (usually lightened one) setup, there is a counter balance holder. If you have a factory MT setup then there is a flywheel holder. go look at your "mazda" shop book, it will list it and picture it.

 

This works only anybolts that are frozen due to rust, or locktite as is
the case with the eccentric shaft bolt.Go buy a can of Map gas, yes even
Walmart sells this, it comes in a yellow can and works with the standard
propane torch valve. This gas burns hotter than propane and will get things hot in a hurry. Place the flame
on the nut end of the eccentric shaft
nut until it becomes cherry red from
the heat, be careful not to burn anything close by like the vaccum tank.Take a large hammer and strike
the end of the nut, hard, two times
is good enough.Now remove the eccentric
shaft nut in the general fashion, mine
came out with a three quarters inch
drive using a standard rachet after
this heat and hammer treatment.
I spent a day driving my engine
around on the back of a truck going
to different machine shops to remove
this bolt.These guys couldn't get
it loose either. Like I said it works
on any frozen bolts or studs, I had
to use this method to get one of
the down-pipe studs out too.
Good luck, any more problems, PM
me. I pulled my motor out and rebulit
it myself. Everythng has been port-matched and polished, it put down
340Hp and 315fp of torque on the dyno
in Greensboro, NC.

 

Some very good advice. What mods do you have? Also, did you port the motor yourself as well?

take it easy--

 

Yeah, the "Heat and Beat method" works great.

 

No one mentioned the starter method?
For some reason, 13B-REW's off of FD's have a much harder time getting this bolt out.&nbsp We've had one motor require a 1" drive impact gun rated at 1000 ft-lbs to get it out!!!&nbsp We tried the propane torch, with no luch - might try MAPP next time.



-Ted

 

the fd's have a different bolt, and they use a threadlocking substance, and maybe more torque?
the fc's occasionally have the crank bolt fall out, so they fixed it

mike