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Cooling issue help please

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Old 02-08-08, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by glhs0867
have you tried flushing out the block yet?
i havent used any flush stuff
Old 02-09-08, 03:16 PM
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OK. Replaced the thermostat and gasket. bled the hell out of the cooling system. Changed the spark plugs. the old plugs were not ret though they were quite dirty.

There is a bit of smoke coming from the exhaust manifold. I think it is from the pools of coolant sitting on it because the smoke still comes off after the car is turned off for like 10 min.

I noticed that the car burns a little bit of coolant right at start up. It does not burn coolant at idle. However it seems to burn coolant above 3000rpm.

I can not tell if the car is still over heating or not. I have to rebuild the clutch slave cylinder before I can drive it again.

Because it is burning coolant, does this mean I have to rebuild the engine?
Old 02-09-08, 04:51 PM
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What colour smoke does it puff? Are you 100% sure that it isnt't leaking in one of the hard to see spaces as people have described in the thread? If it is really burning coolant, that means your seals are shot, and yes rebuild. Easy way to tell if it is burning, and not leaking is by the colour of the smoke. If I recal correctly blue/black is oil, and white/grey is coolant.

Normally on start up you will have the blue/black smoke, due to OMP working. If there are puffs/clouds of grey/white rolling out of the exhaust, it's probably trouble. I hope you find a sneaky leak. Forgive me if my information is wrong, I am quite new myself.
Old 02-09-08, 05:40 PM
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Could be rebulid time. Drive it first and see what happens. Could just be burnig noff what was there in the first place. A rotary won't always overheat from a coolant seal it can take quite a few cycles before it will actually start running hot. So....this could have been a graduall process so don't blame urself too much. Drive it and see what it does.
Old 02-09-08, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by oshiboy427
What colour smoke does it puff? Are you 100% sure that it isnt't leaking in one of the hard to see spaces as people have described in the thread? If it is really burning coolant, that means your seals are shot, and yes rebuild. Easy way to tell if it is burning, and not leaking is by the colour of the smoke. If I recal correctly blue/black is oil, and white/grey is coolant.

Normally on start up you will have the blue/black smoke, due to OMP working. If there are puffs/clouds of grey/white rolling out of the exhaust, it's probably trouble. I hope you find a sneaky leak. Forgive me if my information is wrong, I am quite new myself.
its white smoke. there is no puddles to be found.
Old 02-09-08, 09:28 PM
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What is the cheapest way to go on a rebuild. The engine runs pretty strong. the car has 156k on it and as strong as it runs, i would expect the engine to have been rebuilt at some point.

From the rebuild kits I have been looking at, it seems possible to take the engine partially apart and only replace the water seals.

I could be wrong though. I have never rebuilt a rotary before and dont know anyone who has either.
Old 02-09-08, 09:41 PM
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At 156k you will want to probably do a full rebuild.
Look at an Atkins Master Rebuild Kit, about $1000 and it comes with everything needed.
Old 02-09-08, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by farberio
At 156k you will want to probably do a full rebuild.
Look at an Atkins Master Rebuild Kit, about $1000 and it comes with everything needed.
Thats what i'm saying though, it seems like the engine has been rebuilt already, fairly recently.
Old 02-09-08, 09:49 PM
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Then open up the motor and check the seal wear. Make sure you keep track of EVERY SEAL and Spring so that it goes back into the same place.
Old 02-14-08, 06:20 AM
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Bro do yourself a favor, don't open the engine. You already know a seal is gone. There is no point in opening the engine, unless you gonna replace the seal.

Find out which rotor is leaking, by checking your spark plugs, You should find water on one of them, and if not pull the plugs and lay paper towels inside next to the plug holes, pull fuse 40 amp the second one in from engine. Put gas pedal to floor and crank for 10 seconds. Go and check the paper towels. You will see a wetter one, bingo you found it.

Go get Bar's Headgasket repair. Follow directions to the letter, verbatim.

Chances are you will have a perfect sealed engine within 2 days, cause the new bars, takes 2 days to bond up. I have seen it work on a very bad coolant leaking 13B. Still works today and that was 2 years ago. So there is my 2 cents on this, and if I was broke, how to handle this.

Hope this helps you. Good Luck.
Old 02-14-08, 07:08 AM
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thanks man ill look into it.
Old 02-14-08, 09:29 AM
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If that thing is leaking coolant rebuild it. That coolant will pretty much ruin anything in side the motor. Stop leak is only a band-aid. Fix the problem and you will be much happier with the results.
Old 02-14-08, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by re-rx7
If that thing is leaking coolant rebuild it. That coolant will pretty much ruin anything in side the motor. Stop leak is only a band-aid. Fix the problem and you will be much happier with the results.
Didn't you read, he doesn't have much money. Never rebuilt one, and noone around him to help him. But you continue to tell him to just rebuild it..thats crazy.

He can buy a good running RX7 for less than the cost of a rebuild kit.


I guess to you a perfect running engine, that had a worse coolant seal leak than he, and still runs after 2 years isn't good enough?
Old 02-14-08, 10:13 AM
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1988-...em150215912540

Here you go $500.

Has a broken door handle...lol
Old 02-14-08, 11:14 AM
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Then he will be right back in the same hole with a used car and unknown engine. When you rebuild a engine at least you know what has been done to it.

To your second question no it isn't good enough. I take my motors very seriously and do not cut corners. Cheap, fast, and reliable, pick two you will never get the third.
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