cluster not working !!
10-07-14, 06:04 PM
#27
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OK so I checked the volts in white/black had 12v brown/white had 5v and the brown/red had only 1.6v with ignition on and plugged in would this cause hesitation tho
10-07-14, 06:15 PM
#28
There are three items which tells the ECU that the car is under load. TPS, AFM and boost sensor are the three items. Apparently your boost sensor is not up to spec. Is it the cause of your problem? Do you want to be using a sensor which is out of spec? Could it be something else? This is a car we are talking about which has many interrelated parts thus of course it's possible to be something else. Again, a stock turbo should not be boosting over 10 psi.
10-08-14, 08:44 PM
#29
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Pulled off the upper intake manifold to measure resistance on the injectors they where 13 ohms and I'm still running the stock resistor box part number is denso 195500-1370 but have read that they are low resistance would I bypass the resistor box?
10-08-14, 09:59 PM
#30
Yes, you would definitely not want to use the resistor box on high impedance injectors. This could easily be the cause of your running issues thus it needs to be bypassed.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...or-box-672951/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...or-box-672951/
Last edited by satch; 10-08-14 at 10:12 PM.
10-09-14, 02:59 PM
#31
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Update.... Car runs and it runs good now bypassed the resistor box by soldering the wires together changed the injector orings and soldered the injector pigtails on instead of the butt conectors added more gas as the tank was about dry from running so crappy previously but all in all its hitting boost fine no hesitation the only thing I noticed is that the idle goes up and down when its warming up but after it warms up its fine any idea as to why
10-09-14, 03:40 PM
#33
Update.... Car runs and it runs good now bypassed the resistor box by soldering the wires together changed the injector orings and soldered the injector pigtails on instead of the butt conectors added more gas as the tank was about dry from running so crappy previously but all in all its hitting boost fine no hesitation the only thing I noticed is that the idle goes up and down when its warming up but after it warms up its fine any idea as to why
Last edited by satch; 10-09-14 at 04:08 PM.
10-10-14, 04:26 PM
#34
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Readjusted the tps and the idle issue went away car idles up when cold and drops like its supposed to now motor is running good I tried a different boost sensor and still only got about 1.6v but car is running fine
10-11-14, 01:32 AM
#36
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When I turn the car on it goes to .8 volts now after I let the car cool down it takes a while to start and it will bog when I try to take off but after its going and it hits boost its fine could it he the butterfly valves in the intake
10-11-14, 03:10 AM
#37
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I forgot to mention I just changed the plugs ,wires , fuel filter and air filter car takes a good minute to start and I have to continuoualy pump the gas to get it to start and it smokes a lot for a little whiteish smoke checked the coolant and it hasn't gone down so don't think its bad coolant seals and did a compression check just in case and got 95 across the board but once its on it idles fine no pops just smooth
10-11-14, 08:35 AM
#38
The hard start could be leaking injectors or it could be the water thermosensor etc. Pin 2I is for the thermosensor. W/key to on it will read 2-3 volts w/the engine cold and the voltage drops to .5 volts or so when fully warmed.
When you start the car does it run rough before smoothing out ? And does the car appear hard to start on cold starts or all starts.
Last edited by satch; 10-11-14 at 08:43 AM.
10-11-14, 09:54 AM
#39
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Only on cold starts its hard to start it starts up fine once it warms up and it does run a bit choppy for about 5-10 sec on the first cold start with whiteish smoke then it evens out and the volt reading was on the boost sensor it reads 1.6v with car off and .8 with it on
10-11-14, 10:07 AM
#40
Only on cold starts its hard to start it starts up fine once it warms up and it does run a bit choppy for about 5-10 sec on the first cold start with whiteish smoke then it evens out and the volt reading was on the boost sensor it reads 1.6v with car off and .8 with it on
The sensor reading is supposed to change when the car is running.
10-11-14, 10:28 AM
#41
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I thought it should but both the boost sensors I've tried read the same 1.6v with the car off and you previously said it is supposed to be at 2.3v I'll check the coolant sensor reading at ecu when I get home see if that's the cause of my hard starting
10-11-14, 10:45 AM
#42
When an item is out of spec it can still work but there's no chart or the like which dictates exactly how out of spec a sensor can be before it is a hinderance. The boost sensor should not affect the starting of the car. If you want to unplug it and see if it makes a difference then go ahead, but I doubt that it will.
10-12-14, 12:54 AM
#44
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the ecu is a 332 i believe.... so i pulled the fuel pump out to check the strainer and i got good and bad news the strainer was plugged up with sediment but at least i think that has a lot to do with the hesitation and hard starting issues a little background on the car i got it from a old lady that blew an apex seal and scored the rotor and rotor housing so the gas sat in the car for about 10 years i pulled the tank once drained the gas and put acetone in to remove the about 1/2" of varnished gas in the bottom 
i thought i had most of it out so i threw a new FD fuel pump in for later upgrades and replaced the fuel filter and blew out the fuel lines with my air compressor but i guess the new gas i put in the car broke down the old varnish that the acetone didn't reach at least now i know the tank is clean because it broke it down into a watery like substance and once again the tank is out i cleaned it out really good now so i will order a new fuel pump strainer and will post update see if anything changes.... also checked the coolant temp sensor it read around 5v when cold and when fully warm it read .56v so its fine.... also tried to jumper the two round plugs between the coils to see if the rpm gauge would work but had no luck so i still suspect the whole cluster is bad due to the window being rolled down for years once i get all the fuel system back together ill post some updates
i thought i had most of it out so i threw a new FD fuel pump in for later upgrades and replaced the fuel filter and blew out the fuel lines with my air compressor but i guess the new gas i put in the car broke down the old varnish that the acetone didn't reach at least now i know the tank is clean because it broke it down into a watery like substance and once again the tank is out i cleaned it out really good now so i will order a new fuel pump strainer and will post update see if anything changes.... also checked the coolant temp sensor it read around 5v when cold and when fully warm it read .56v so its fine.... also tried to jumper the two round plugs between the coils to see if the rpm gauge would work but had no luck so i still suspect the whole cluster is bad due to the window being rolled down for years once i get all the fuel system back together ill post some updates
10-14-14, 05:33 PM
#48
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so i changed the strainer cleaned out everything on the fuel system got a new fuel filter and still have the hard start only when cold and the hesitation at low rpms if i try to go wot its fine at higher rps but at low rpms it hesitates car idles perfect no shaking or bouncing idle any sugestions on what i should try may just open a new thread for this issue as im not looking to fix my cluster right now just fix the hesitation/starting issues
10-14-14, 06:49 PM
#50
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yes it still does it when warmed up and thats when i try only when at full operating temp well im guessing full operating temp because i still dont have a working temp gauge but its after i drive it for about 20 min also tried running it straight downpipe in case of a restriction in the exhause and see if it made a difference no luck