cluster not working !!
10-02-14, 01:56 AM
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cluster not working !!
I finally got done putting in a JDM s4 engine in my 87 turbo ii hooked up all the engine wiring harness and started the motor the motor comes on and runs just fine but none of the gauges work like the oil pressure boost or rpm I did notice two things the JDM harness had the alternator plug coming from the ecu harness and the old plug came off the body harness which one do I plug in? Also there was a great wire coming off one of the ecu plugs that looked to have some sort of resistor in the line that I had to cut off the old harness does this need to be hooked up??? Any advice helps thanks in advance.
10-02-14, 03:32 AM
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Also is there a good wrightup on how to wire in the wiper motor the JDM harness did not have the plug on it or can I take the plug off my usdm t2 harness again thanks in advanced
10-02-14, 09:04 AM
#5
You have to make numerous alterations to make a JDM front and emission harness mate with a USDM front harness which is what it appears you are doing. The items in the dash are part of the front harness (USDM in your case). You can use the advanced search feature and you'll find someone who did this and how to alter things such that they will work.
10-02-14, 09:44 PM
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OK checked the meter fuse and it was still good I started looking at the harness and I found the wiper motor plug tucked under the charcoal canister oops on my part Lol the rpm coolant temp and boost are still not reading anything though also the car was started to really hesitate over half throttle so I unplugged the boost sensor to see if it would make a difference and it did car ran better any input on this
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10-04-14, 10:09 AM
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OK I put the stock usdm harness back on the car I had to change the injector plugs on the harness because the JDM motor had red injectors with a offset pin while the old motor had the tan injectors that had a center pin car now turns on fine and idles fine but hesitates really bad at mid throttle if I feather the gas its fine and if I really step on it its fine almost seems like a tps issue now also checked the timing and it is nowhere near were it should be off of the t1 lead.....could bad plugs/fuel filter cause this hesitation or is it possible it has the wrong injectors in it I got the engine used thanks in advanced
10-04-14, 10:51 AM
#10
If the primary injectors are the same type/set as the secondary injectors then you can test the ohms of the secondary injectors to see if they are the correct ones. The S4 used high impedance injectors for 86 and the 1st half of 87 before switching over to low impedance injectors. Highs should read about 11 ohms while lows should read 2 ohms or less.
And at what rpm does the engine hesitate? If it occurs at 3800 rpm, which is the transition point for the secondaries to come on line, then it is most likely a grounding issue associated w/the secondaries. And does the car free rev just fine as only the primaries work at this point.
And do you have the gauge cluster working properly w/the different harness?
And at what rpm does the engine hesitate? If it occurs at 3800 rpm, which is the transition point for the secondaries to come on line, then it is most likely a grounding issue associated w/the secondaries. And does the car free rev just fine as only the primaries work at this point.
And do you have the gauge cluster working properly w/the different harness?
10-04-14, 11:42 AM
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Gauge cluster is still not working correctly thinking it might be the cluster it self previous owner had the window rolled down and parked the car like that outside for who knows how long so i dont jniw exactly what rpm it does it at but it seems to be about half way it does rev up fine when just idling but while driving it hesitates about mid throttle I'll try to add more grounds tonight and see if it helps thanks for the replies
10-04-14, 01:18 PM
#13
If you are going to add a ground you would splice a wire into the ground wire of the boost sensor and connect the other end of the additional ground wire to the engine housing. And you need to make sure you have have the correct impedance injectors. The early S4's had a resistor box explicitly used for high impedance injectors only and if you use low impedance injectors w/them then it will cause a problem.
10-04-14, 09:25 PM
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It was a turbo 2 model I'll try the grounds first and if that fails looks like I'm taking off the uim to see what resistance the injectors are but right now I'm at work so can't do any of that gotta love 16 hour shifts I'll update tomorrow
10-06-14, 04:08 PM
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OK so finally got time to work on the car a little been working a lot of hours I re grounded the boost sensor it didn't seem to make a difference so I said what the heck I'll try the tps so I let the car warm up to full operating temp and set it to 1000 ohms it ran just like it should hesitation was gone!!! Finally is there a better way to set the tps or is the ohm method just fine also cluster is still not working I think I'll pull out the cluster it self and check the connections only speedo and fuel work right now
10-06-14, 04:17 PM
#21
OK so finally got time to work on the car a little been working a lot of hours I re grounded the boost sensor it didn't seem to make a difference so I said what the heck I'll try the tps so I let the car warm up to full operating temp and set it to 1000 ohms it ran just like it should hesitation was gone!!! Finally is there a better way to set the tps or is the ohm method just fine also cluster is still not working I think I'll pull out the cluster it self and check the connections only speedo and fuel work right now
The output wire for the boost sensor is Brown/Red and w/key to on it should read from 2.3 to 2.7 volts. Does yours?
W/respect to the temp gauge the sending unit has a single wire which is Yellow/White. When pulled off if you ground this wire w/key to on then the temp gauge needle should climb to the top of the spectrum. Grounding the wire too long can damage the gauge so be careful to only ground it long enough to test the gauge. If the gauge does not budge then the wiring to the gauge could be wrong or the gauge is broken. The Y/W wire from the sensor runs to FEM-01 and mates w/the Yellow/Black wire at that connector. From there the Y/B wire then connects to FME-01 which is located directly behind the cluster.
Last edited by satch; 10-06-14 at 04:24 PM.
10-06-14, 05:09 PM
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Yeah your telling me I'm glad its finally running fine but for now I'm back at work I will test the boost sensor tomorrow to see how many volts its putting out I suspect it might be the cluster it self or the wiring to it I've checked the meter fuse and its good but still no boost, temp, or rpms I will post update tomorrow after checking temp gauge and boost sensor
10-07-14, 02:21 PM
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Grounded out the wire for the temp gauge and had no luck also checked the voltage on the boost sensor on the red/brown wire and only got 1.6v with the key to the on position today the hesitation was back I pulled the cluster off and all the screws on the back were rusted very badly so I tried to clean where they make contact and threw it back in got the boost gauge to work for a little it would boost about half between the 0 and 40 and ran great when the gauge was working then it stopped working and the car ran like crap again does the boost gauge have to be working in order for the ecu to get a boost signal?