After about a week of messing with the car, it finally cranks now (before, nothing would crank, click or turn)

But now its not cranking and turning but won't start. I've checked my battery, starter, alternator, clutch and ignition. I deflooded the motor over and over and nothing. I even tried to pop the clutch several time with no success. i was sure that was going to work but it did not.

after doing all of that over and over, now when i crank it , my engine rotates really slow ( my battery does not read 12v anymore )

I checked my lead and trail coils, used a MM to check the ohms and they are good.

I couldn't go to work today, so i really want to get this fixed asap. I have NOT checked the compression yet, i'm still waiting for my friend to drop that tool, so in the mean time, anyone have any ideas?

 

You have an S5?

When you checked for ignition does that mean you checked for spark?

Have you checked the relevant fuses such as the IGN fuse in the engine fusebox and the 15 amp Engine fuse in the interior fusebox? If you have proper voltage the lead coil's Black/Yellow wire should have 12 volts w/key to on and if it does then both fuses are good.

 

I pulled out spark plugs today, they were horrible. Went ahead and used a wire brush and brake cleaner.

Compression test had false reading, so i'll conduct another one tomorrow when i buy a working one.

i de-flooded the motor again, and this time took out all the plugs, egi fuse and put in 2 ounces of ATF in the bottom plugs and still nothing.

I ordered new plugs, fuel filter and pump, i'll be picking them up tom, hopefully that will fix it.

I checked all GROUNDs, connections, resistances and voltages. Everything is where they need to be. Hopefully that pump and filter gets it running, other wise i have to tow it to the Rotary Doctor in Neosho and have him take care of it.

 

You're not far from Neosho, MO where you can find Rotary Doctor. He has a shop their and knows what he's doing.

 

You can disable the fuel pump and spray one to two seconds of starter fluid into the intake duct and try to start the car. If it starts briefly then you know you have spark. And when you deflood the engine is there gas coming out of the spark plug holes or not?

You can also unplug the Boost/Pressure Sensor and w/key to on check for 5 volts on the Brown/White wire. This wire powers the engine sensors including the AFM and if it doesn't read 5 volts, but something close to zero, then this wire is likely being shorted out by the AFM and the result would be an engine which will not start.

 

Yea, i have met the Rotary Doctor. He is awesome. I may do it this weekend, we have a cruise so ill talk to him then.


When i de flood the motor, nothing comes out. I will run that test today after work . Thanks again!

 

good luck hoping to hear good new from you !

 

If the Br/W wire checks out okay then you should make sure the fuel pump is holding up its end of the bargain. You can disconnect the fuel return line from the engine and place the rubber hose in a plastic jug. Then jumper the fuel check connector which allows the pump to turn on w/the key to on. This should then give you a heads up on whether the pump is even working.

 

Fuel pump is good to go, took out the hose and send and return lines are good. Replaced spark plugs again, cranked it and took them back out, spark plugs are NOT wet and show no sign of liquid. my new battery is starting to take a toll to, with all the starting up. While cranking it sits around 9 volts. My starter smokes up too where that rubber cut hose is at ( on the solenoid ) i'm running out of ideas , and its really frustrating but i'll keep searching forums and doing more research. I just want it to start and run so i can drive it to the Rotary Doctor. Worse case, i may just find a tow...

 

But what about the Br/W wire as this is very important for it to have the proper voltage as stated? Should take all of a minute to check.

Do you understand that this wire powers the engine sensors, AFM included, and if it doesn't read the proper voltage then the injectors will act like nothing but a paperweight and this could explain why there is no fuel on the plugs. Again, takes all but a minute of time to look at.

 

And you said the coils were checked but you definitively mentioned nothing about checking for spark. Did you check for spark?