My car today run with 1 rotor , i check the rear compression it is zero?
I cant overhole the engine no body make it for me ,

Then my friend have fc engine can i use it directly the block. To my fd intake and every thing...

Thanks

 

no

 

Nope.

If you're looking to have an FD 13B-REW engine built and sent out to Kuwait, send me a PM

 

Front cover pickup is different, bolt holes for the intake manifold are different, motor mounts are different too. Better off buying an engine from the States.

 

Ok i will try to rebuild my engine with my friend
He was very buesy
What is the part should i buy

I didnt want allmparts only the parts that fix my problem for the rear rotor without compressioj

 

I get the sence your on a budget? Do yourself a favor and buy this rebuild video. Since your gonna only replace the damaged parts, this video will help you organize your existing parts because if you install certain side and corner seals in the wrong parts of the rotor, you will negatively effect your compression. Also at the very least, replace all of the apex seals on the good rotor as well. The original factory 3 piece DO NOT need to go back into your engine. They are a ticking time bomb because of there age.

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_video.htm


Parts your probably gonna need another rotor. Try to find one the same weight as the damaged one. Rotor weight is on the gear side. Letters are from (A-F). If you can't find an Fd rotor housing, an Fc housing will work (but it has to be an S5 turbo II housing 1989-1991 not S4 1986-1988). On your damage rotor, some of your parts can transfer over to your new rotor if they aren't damaged. Example oil control o-rings w/springs, side seals (if you can find a slot they fit with proper clearence on the new rotor).

Engine o-ring kit like this one. http://compare.ebay.com/like/2904991...=263602_304662

That kit has everything you need to close the engine back up.

You can reuse the exhaust gaskets.

All the other paper gaskets, you can either buy new ones or buy gasket paper and cut your own. Cutting your own gasket works great if you cut them correctly (saves a lot of money).


New rubber o-ring for the front cover.

Lastly the video does more to help you with the rotary engine block of an FC. Internally basically they are all the same. When you get to the point that your pulling all the vacuum lines from under the intake (aka rats nest) you WILL break nipples if you don't do it the right way. Here's a tip for you. Use a razor blade to cut the line at the base of the nipple. Them you use a tiny flat head screw driver to twist in the cut section of the vacuum line. The line will pop off without you breaking the nipple. NEVER grab the vacuum lines and twist on any plastic nipple.

 

Thank you alot,,,
you help me more than I think

today I will order the video and I will open the engine, I can get this engine from DUBAI around 700$ but I want to try to help my self by my self

I saw 20b also , but I want to eat the 13b first, my fried in this forum and he can't help me all time because he is engineering and buesy , he have rx7 with 487hp
and he made porting by himself,

if i open the fc engine we have one, and take the rotor, and buy the O RING set from ebay is solve my problem nothing other,?
I saw a set around 1000$ too much, with this price I can get a new engine

 

What year is the Fc engine? Do you have a camera to upload pics as you go? I don't mind helping as I can tell you don't have much support in your region. Also you can download the shop manual from this page.


http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual

 

Thank you T-von
I took the number on the alternator it is n370
I checked in google it is for s5 is im right. Look


Let me know he will give me the engine 200$ hehehe

 

Need a different angle to make sure you have the right engine. That alternator fits both engines (Na and turbo). Also you can never tell if that's really an S4 engine with a replaced S5 alternator. There are so many parts that are inter-changeable you have to make sure. Get a pic of the whole engine, spark plug area and exhaust side. I personally have never striped down a turbo II engine so the pic will help for another forum member to identify it's year.

 

That's an S5 engine. (alternator plus double throttle sensors)

 

double TPSs gave it away. S5 engine

 

The spark plug area have hole on the top like sensor .?
What every one think?

Yhat picture from internet not from me

 

This should help http://www.banzai-racing.com/faq_housings_ID.htm

 

Thank you banzai this engine is turbo and come with whole knock sensor

It is s5 i will buy it thanks

 

If you use the Fc housing, make sure you block off the upper water passage on the exhaust side of the housing. The Fd housing don't have that passage.

 

I opened the engine now from rear
The rotor have S letter .?
What is it, the engine is from jdm 1997 fd3s
The nest rats is not like 93.?
What should i cancel or remove i will go single turbo?
Last thing the housing have some scratch and one apex seal in the rear rotor is not inside ?

 

There's more letters on the gear side of the rotor. Look for letters A-F.

Missing apex seal is probably in the turbos in a million pieces.

I forget what yr but Mazda re-designed the rats nest in the newer models. Not too many people on this forum with experience with those.

What yr is your car?

Get a camera! Pics will really help!

I would make sure you can get the engine back together 1st and running well before you start talking going single. Putting a hacked up engine together and going single isn't something you want to do.

 

this is my 97 rx7 I bought it from my friend in Dubai.
I will post some picture to my opened engine tomorrow , I have greddy manifold and turbo , I will buy power fc and O rings to build the engine .
but now Im afraid about the scratch on the housing can I polish it?
and how can I mesure it ? and now the bore for the housing?

Thanks

 

now it is LHD . I change all things stearing and dash to make it lowly in Kuwait, you can't drive RHD stearing in Kuwait .