Hi Guys. I am a newbie here but have an engine swap/wiring question, A friend of mine attempted a swap with a 13b t (twin turbo) into his sunbeam, due to packaging issues he has had to remove the turbos and we were courious if 1) the engine management/ecu can be wired to run without them and if so a direction for guidance on this and or 2) can we run the efi or can we swap to a downdraft or side draft carb?
I know this may be a difficult forum question to answer but his plan went awry and we are trying to see if it can be salvaged. if this is not do able we may look into a naturally aspirated rotory without the crank trigger.
Thank you all again for any info or links

 

Sure, if you just remove the turbos and leave all the emissions and sequential turbo control the stock ECU will run the engine just fine without the turbos.

If you want to clean things up and strip the twin turbo controls snd or emissions you need to put some resistors in a couple/three solenoids or the ECU will throw codes and goes into limp mode.
Forget exactly which ones, but I found all the info on this forum (though use google to search this forum as the built in search is useless).

Sounds like a cool project!

If you want to remain turbo you could build a turbo manifold and mount a single turbo out of the way.

You should choose a turbo that flows within the stock HP limits of the engine (so, sized for 200-400 rotary HP or 350-600 piston engine HP) and MUST keep it right around 10psi boost or below or the stock ECU will cut fuel to protect the engine.

People have used the stock 1987-92 single turbos for this.

Another excellent turbo would be a turbo off an Indycar (EFR 7163) that you can get used for about $700 and has a nice stainless exhaust housing you could weld the exhaust directly onto (but you would have to purchase a wastegate with this turbo).

 

Sounds like fun project.

Just to add to what BLUE said the resistors are a great idea I have done it and it works. Before I put stock manifolds back on my 94 FD I had JDM manifolds with no spot for EGR and AWS so I found the proper resistances installed resistors. EGR worked like a charm light went out no problems, I now have EGR installed and no longer resistor but it did work. The AWS did work as well however I completely underestimated the current and it ended up burning up the resistor and melting the plug. It still plugs in and works now that I have the AWS on but plug looks hideous and melted. So yeah resistors great idea and they do work just make sure to check current flow as well as the resistance needed.

Good luck on the project!

 

You will probably need to retune it, if you are using the twin turbo engine, because the engine management was speed-density (calculates airflow instead of actually measuring it), and it will run lean because airflow will go up without the restriction of the turbos in the exhaust system.

 

^^
But factory ECU runs in the 10s/9s AFRs under load because turbo- so its really hard to say without trying it out...

 

my buddy deleted his turbo recently and the AFRs did not change much at all, his is on haltech though

 

I thought they ran stoich at all loads below boost. (Read that somewhere here) Running stoich or leaner than stoich won't hurt anything short term but the engine won't like the heat if you lean on it, say, at a track day.

Most turbo engines don't go into power enrichment until under a little bit of boost, because they are not getting all that much mass flow into the chamber yet, so it's like a nonturbo engine at part throttle.

 

Nah, it only runs stoich at steady cruise in closed loop.

 

Hell, then go for it! Sounds like it's the same as the FC "run it pig rich all the time except during the Federal and CARB test loops, so keep the cat cool" fueling strategy.

In that case, it might lean out to a beneficial 13:1-ish with the turbos no longer clogging up the exhaust system

 

the borders are ~1100rpm and zero throttle at the bottom, and 1psi/3200rpm whichever comes first (lets see haltech do that!), at the top end

over 3200rpm, it will go open loop, (high speed zone). as for what that means in AFR? who remembers, i wanna say 13's but its been a while

 

Well dang (for fear of hijacking the post), I just noticed FUEL CUT ZONE (FRONT ROTOR) section... what's that all about?!? Why only Front (vs only back or better yet, intermittent F/B)?!?

 

Stockports will brap under coasting. This feels like a light bucking when coming near a stop while in gear. Mazda made the shutter valve setup on '81-up carbureted 12As to cut fuel to the rear rotor and dump air pump air into it when coasting in order to stop this. I don't know about GSL-SE, but FCs also cut one rotor when coasting down. It's all in the name of smoothness.

My first RX-7 was an '80, no shutter valve. I learned to simply not coast down in gear. (I think they also cut trailing ignition, but this may have been to keep the thermal reactor lit and not for drivability)