Miss Sterling

I have a 1988 rx7 GXL.
Since September there have been minor problems but most recently
the coolant tank was always empty. The Add Coolant buzzer NEVER went off at one point even when the tank was full.
Then we noticed the heat gauge wasn't working. The starter had to be replaced. Anyhow the car has been at the shop
for about half the month of January.

The guys at Alex Safety Lane in Santa Fe are now at the end of
the problems for me -- except I am told I have a BLOWN HEAD GASKET and they cannot fix it as they do not rebuild rx7s.

I asked them if the car is safe to drive, they said yes but not for long distances. Problem is there's nothing BUT long distances out here! At least 80 miles or so a day.

Does anyone know of someone in the Santa Fe area who can fix this?

In the meantime they put something in the antifreeze. They said that my radiator cap wasn't fitting properly... fixed... but there are exhaust gases leaking into the coolant (but not the oil) ... sorry if this is unclear, I'm just trying to get a handle on what is really wrong.

From alot of what I have read here I hear you can just buy a new engine.
What are my options? I don't want to give up.

..... wow I just checked this out

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+Gasket+Repair

It says there AREN'T any head gaskets in a rotary?
Well what do you know.

1gendreemer

Them telling you that the head gasket is blown is not quite right, since the rotary motor has no heads - but that's the closest thing to the coolant seal on our roatary motors. Unfortuantely, it does sound like that is the problem. The motor needs to be rebuilt and the seal replaced to fix this.

There are folks out there that will tell you that you can get away with doing BARS leak or other coagulant-type fixes, but given the nature of the rotary and the high heat, you're just asking for more trouble when it overheats the next time, and really just prolonging the inevitable rebuild. Hopefully no further damage was done to the motor when it overheated initially. This is somthing you'll want to check.

Seal kits can be bought from any of the major rotary engine builders (Pineapple, Atkins, Mazdatrix, etc) if you want to do it yourself. Otherwise, find a reputable shop in your area. I'd ask to talk to former customers and really do your homework. Mechanics and quality of builds coming out of shops can change over time.

Sorry about the bad news and good luck!

Miss Sterling

Hi,
So until I get this done I have to watch
that the engine does not overheat.
Thanks very much, I caught this on my way to pick her up.

1gendreemer

I wouldn't recommend driving it, because it can overheat very quickly.

Miss Sterling

Well the seal held for about 40 miles. I got to work fine with a proper heat gauge reading.
But coming home tonight
the heat gauge shot up to high and stayed there. I drove 'slow' 50 MPH for those 20 miles and then as I pulled in the driveway
with a great sigh she blew up white smoke. I'm not going to tax her again.

Now I have to find someone to work on the engine in this area ... Santa Fe/Albuquerque. I will check it out here.

It was recommended I buy a new engine and start over but still,
have to find someone to put it in, I can't do these things myself.

My mechanic friend who is a real genius, can fix just about anything and any car,
(he diagnosed this problem a couple of months ago without even looking at the engine.... he wants to know from this forum...
if he would be getting in over his head to attempt such a job.
He stayed away from the Mazda since he has
no experience, but my trials have interested him in giving it a go.

What thinkest thou.
Thank you.

FB II

anyone who is mechanically inclined can swap a motor. it's just a matter of removing bolts, hoses, and parts. as long as he gets everything back together properly it'll be fine. he may have a difficult time with all the vaccum hoses and such, but this sounds like your only hope. i'd force him to do it. hahaha

kenn_chan

Ms Sterling,

If your friend is truly a competent mechanic (no slight intended towards him) then he will have no problems if he follows the repair procedures outlined in a haynes, or chiltons manual (older manuals have more details and specs) have him log on to the forum, to get tips, and then start saving your money for the parts.

There are 3 basic levels of rebuilds, and which you choose will determine the price for parts, and how long it will last. it also depends opon what condition your car was in prior to coolant seals letting loose.

a: complete rebuild includes all soft and hard seals new, with new rotor housings will run you about 1500~1800 for parts. if you lapp the side houeings when you do this it will last longer than you will own the car (good for about 150~200,000 miles if you do proper maintenance) required if high mileage140k ish and above, or if severly overheated and warpage of the rotor houses is indicated.

b: hard and soft seals only, with rellapping of side housings.. runs you about 800~1200 ish will last for however much life is left in your housing's (useually about 200k max)

c: soft seals only, no relapping only when coolant seals have popped, and there is no warpage of housings. this is the cheapest but I still prefer option "B" to this as the rebuild will last longer with new apex and side/corner seals.

good luck and Pm for questions.

Kenn

Miss Sterling

Yes I'm gonna make him do it.

I want to get her back and running!
I'll have him read all this, and start planning
and we will be using you as a resource!

You guys are genius.

Sterling

Miss Sterling

Hello...
I decided not to leave the rebuild to a newbie.
Dr. Killjoy here recommended I look up Tom at RotaryRx.com in Albuquerque.
I had her towed down there and Tom said there was QUITE alot wrong with her.
Neglect, poor mechanical work, etc.
I spent one morning with him and he took me through it, "rx7 101" and 102,
I learned an enormous amount.

Anyhow, 3 weeks later, I have a totally new engine (he had to replace mine, alot of the titanium was burned off) , there was
damage on the oil conduits, the Apex seals weren't even getting any oil! I think I even got new Apex seals. Anyhow I got alot of new everything.
I also had the clutch replaced, and all new shocks put in.

AND the guy is delivering the car! I live 100 miles from Albuquerque so that is major!

The total damage on this was less than $3k, and Tom has a twelve month warranty on all work.

The man totally loves Mazda rx7s. It was very exciting to see the collection in his parking lot, all the folk who use his expertise and networking.... e.g.
he has someone in the midwest who rebuilds the fuel injection systems, etc. etc.

Anyhow I now feel totally secure, that I have someone who knows what they are doing
and who cleaned up the beautiful thing for another 100K miles!!!

I bought another car in the meantime since the rentals were killing me, a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer, and it is the most boring thing in the world. I can't wait to get the Mazda back all primed. Will write again when I get her back on Monday.

Miss Sterling

The car is now literally 'perfect'... with the new clutch and new shocks as well
she takes the dirt roads like a charmer!
The total rebuild was just over $2K... plus more for the clutch and shocks.

I can't say enough about the service he renders!

Only one thing... the plastic clip that holds the speedometer in place got broken.
Tom tried to salvage another one but that one broke too.
Madza parts wants to sell me the entire CABLE @ $75. just to get the clip.
Any idea where I can just get the clip?

I'm driving her by the tachometer...

Omixeo

iTrader: (1)

Ive been driving by tachometer since january 1st. Its pretty easy. If I ever find a new speedo cable for cheap i might consider buying it, but its not an important thing compared to other problems.