brian fifer

hi i am new to this forum and need help with a tempermemtal 84 gsl-se. was running fine then allof a sudden it wont start . checked fire all the way out to plugs everything looks kosher there but motor is flooding. pulled injectors out and turned motor over. injectors are pulsing identically. before motor quit it was idling a litle high ,around 2000. i am kinda new to rotories and need a hand maybe this rings a bell with someone any help would be greatly appreciated thank you

SureShot

Welcome to the forum.

The ECU feeds a lot of fuel during a cold start, so if everything else is not just right, it will tend to flood.
This is especially true for a high mileage engine with lower compression.

Also cranking speed is critical, so a perfect battery & starting system helps.

Another "gotcha" is, if you start it just to move it a few feet, then shut it off cold, it is more likely to flood on the next start up. If you can, let it warm up a minute before shutting down.

The fast idle is likely from a vac leak, maybe a broken or disconnected hose.

The RX-7 sound dictionary:
Thunk (when starting out) - Front diff mount.
Tink (when starting out) - u-joints
Clunk or groan (with suspension movement) - old grommets.
Zoom zoom (short cycle) - vac leak
Zoom zoom (long cycle) - TPS or BAC or grounds
Crunch - high rev shift to 2nd
Beeeeeeee - over rev or low coolant or low oil.
RrRrRrRrR – all even compression surges in the starter gear noise (normal)
rrrrrrrrrrrr - no compression surges (flooded)
RrRrRrrrRrrrR - uneven compression surges (2 of 6) (bad apex seal)
RrrrRrrrRrrr – alternating strong & weak surges (low compression on one rotor)

I have a copy of the on-line factory manuals at the link in my sig.
Download & print whatever you need.

brian fifer

thanks what do you suggest for a good battery size mine has about 650 cranking amps the kid @ autozone was adamant that that was a good one but if it didn't start right away you were in trouble. i also have a problem with brakes is there some sort of magic to bench bleeding a first-gen four-wheel disc master cylinder

SureShot

Any battery that's healthy will work. Cranking current demand is not as high as many piston engines, but voltage has to be good, to get the revs up.
The most common problem area is the primary cable connections. You want no corrosion with clean shinny bright metal-to-metal contact.

Other than a little priming, the brake master should install & bleed just like any other brake master.

A well worn rotary relies a little more on the oil film to help with compression sealing.
A bad flooding episode washes away that oil film, and starting compression falls way off.
Once that happens, you will have to squirt some oil in the plug holes to get enough compression to start.

brian fifer

thanks again the force is strong with you . i didn't know about putting oil in to help compression that makes sense i'll let you know how it works out.

as far as the brakes go i had a feeling that was the case but i have been pulling my hair out on that one because this is the second reman m/c i've put on it and still nothing it pumps up but leaks down right away. trust me i know what you're thinking and i've been over every inch of brake lines and no leaks. we bled two quarts of brake fluid through it the old fashined way. brakes still wont hold long. i just wanted to hear it from someone who has done it before. not much of a rotory following in my town. autozone and advance are no help its cool though i'll just make the kid @ advance keep ordering me new m/cs till one works. thanks again you have been a great help

SureShot

About the brakes:
After bleeding is the pedal still spongy?
Does the pedal sink?
Are you loosing fluid?

IMO the best oil for freeing stuck seals or building compression after flooding is Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO).
It's a high detergent, low ash, light mineral oil.