Blueman86

Ok I have and 86 13bN/A what is the best way to clean out the motor sea foam, Water, ATF?just let me know and the best way to do it with out ripping the motor apart

RSVampire

without ripping the motor apart I'd say sea foam is good. But why not just redline it a couple of times (under load a.k.a. not in neutral)? That'll blow a bunch of it out.

toxic_d

water will allow you to do it quickly without having to replace your plugs... atf F*&ks em up

johnnyg

Lucas Fuel Treatment is supposed to be good for this too.

BMike

GM top end cleaner worked awesome in my car and doesn't realy leave crap behind. We used ATF as well with no ill results other than needing to clean it off the plugs and the car smoking for a couple days from it burning out of the exhaust.

Blueman86

ok so the best way is?
and the best way to do it is?

partly mazda

I have always wondered about the oil control orings getting dammaged by chemicals. Certainly they are resistant to oil and water.Atf contains seal softners which I think would be benificial. Other chemicals might harm the o-rings. I have taken alot of them apart and every once in a while you find one with mushy o-rings that just fall apart in chunks. I remember cleaning some with alcohol and the next morning they expanded to twice their original size and thickness... My advise is to not use chemicals unless you can test it on some old o-rings first.
john

t-von

iTrader: (8)

I use water about 3 times a year. It's free Rob Golden at Pineapple Racing recommends using water. Get a vacuum hose and about 2 quarts of water. Submerge one end in the water and try to connect the hose on a vacuum nipple that leads to the primary intake runners. Since you have an Fc ask one of the owners which nipples to use. I got 97k original miles on my Fd and my car runs great.

MazdaTed

I have read other places that using the atf will do just fine.
and to keep it from coming back you would have to run the snot out of it regularly.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Umm...why not just redline her a bunch of times?!

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Redlining the engine helps keep the build up down but it wont do anything for breaking down all the old built up carbon.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

I understand that, but it does help clear carbon deposits, does it not? Just how much leftover could/would you have that revving wouldn't clear? Is it significant - ie worthy of actually cleaning the carbon deposits out?

The Ray

Always worth cleaning out,but also depends on how much carbon you think you have. Minor amounts can be taken care of with the water treatment, gives the steam cleaning affect to the inside of your engine whereas heavy deposits may require ATF treatment to break down those heavy deposits. If you don't know how much you have I would start with the ATF treatment and maintain with the water treatment.
ATF treatment----Simply pull your plugs out and put some ATF in the lower spark plug holes, about 2 TO 3 OUNCES , with the battery disconnected rotate engine by hand slowly to make sure all surfaces of the rotor and apex seals get saturated , repeat rotation a couple of times,then using a towel in front of the holes reconnect battery remove EGI and INJ fuses that in fuse block on the driver strut tower.(you don't want spark or fuel at this point.Crank the engine for a couple of rotations to remove some of the ATF from the housings (this part is a little messy hence the towel) put fuses back in, put spark plugs back in and start her up ( THIS WILL SMOKE ALOT SO BE SURE YOU DO IT AT NIGHT OR ALERT ALL OF YOUR NEIHBORS)keep it running till smoke clears up and your done
Water treatment----Easier and cleaner,disconnect the passenger side vacuum line of your dynamic chamber and run 1 liter of water through it with the engine running at about 2500 to 3500 rpm's . You can research this more for info elsewhere on the net and forum (I do it every 3 weeks and works awsome!!)
Well hope this helps some

Ray

Wankelguy

This is truly the question which will not die.

The answer is still:

t-von

iTrader: (8)

It is if you want to keep up the compression on a high mileage engine. Carbon doesn't just stick on the rotor faces, it will get in the grooves of the internal seals slowing their movement. It doesn't take much carbon to make the seals stick in their grooves which will lower your compression. Carbon cleanings should be apart of routine maintenance IMHO. Remember these engines aren't that thermally efficient in combusting the fuel/air mixture. Heavily reving the engine (though fun) just slightly shortens the engines lifes span. If you've taken apart a low compression engine before, you will quickly notice how sometimes the side and corner seals are stuck and even a magnet can't get them out.

Eriks85Rx7

wouldnt water damage the internals? rust etc? how do u use power foam? just spray it into the carb and spark plug holes? Then crank the motor?

Wankelguy

I wrote a procedure for using power-foam that was part of a sticky in the 1st Gen. board about a year ago, maybe try a search for "power foam" and "wankelguy".

Jon (vipernicus) was the author of the thread, IIRC.

Sorry but I'm just burned-out on repeating the information ad infinitum to people who don't seem to be able to get past their almost slavish devotion to ATF, which doesn't belong in a rotary engine in the first place.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

The only way you will cause rust is to do the cleaning and not allow the engine to completely steam away all the water vapor. This can happen if you shut the car down immediately after the cleaning. You will know the water vapor is still present if the engine is still stumbling after the cleaning has been done. This is why I always take the car for a short drive after I do the cleaning.