Best grade of oil (synthetic or non) for Rotary engines old & new??
10-16-06, 10:00 AM
#2
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This topic has been discussed many times, and there are supporters both ways. Synthetic blends are probably a no-no. Rotaries inject some oil from the oil pan into the combustion chamber directly to lubricate the internal seals. The rotary behaves much like a two cycle engine. The problem here with poor quality oils is that this injected oil does not burn completely and leaves behind carbon soot and ash. High quality synthetics are OK, but , given the relatively short oil change interval of 2500-300 miles, you lose the benefit of extended life from a synthetic and oil changes get very expensive.
Bottom line is use a high quality standard oil in 10W-30 (winter) or 20W-50 (summer) and you will be fine. Many on these forums recommend Castrol GTX. I use Havoline. Don't use any oil additives.
But, to complicate matters further, many would also recommend that you add 2-cycle oil to your gas at each fillup. 1/2 - 1 oz per gallon of gas.
Run a search on oils and premix in the 2nd gen forum and you will find lots of interesting reading.
Bottom line is use a high quality standard oil in 10W-30 (winter) or 20W-50 (summer) and you will be fine. Many on these forums recommend Castrol GTX. I use Havoline. Don't use any oil additives.
But, to complicate matters further, many would also recommend that you add 2-cycle oil to your gas at each fillup. 1/2 - 1 oz per gallon of gas.
Run a search on oils and premix in the 2nd gen forum and you will find lots of interesting reading.
10-16-06, 11:43 AM
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I thought, do Pre-mix only if you take out your rats nest and air pump. Cause no oil is being injected into the combustion chambers.
Although you could if you wanted to (if you still have your air pump and rats nest.) But you dont need to.
Although I havent read any of those threads, ive just been told this / /\ that.
But I still have the rats nest in my 7. And I dont use permix.
my 2 cents.
Although you could if you wanted to (if you still have your air pump and rats nest.) But you dont need to.
Although I havent read any of those threads, ive just been told this / /\ that.
But I still have the rats nest in my 7. And I dont use permix.
my 2 cents.
10-16-06, 11:49 AM
#4
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Originally Posted by NoviceRotaryTech.
I thought, do Pre-mix only if you take out your rats nest and air pump. Cause no oil is being injected into the combustion chambers.
Although you could if you wanted to (if you still have your air pump and rats nest.) But you dont need to.
Although I havent read any of those threads, ive just been told this / /\ that.
But I still have the rats nest in my 7. And I dont use permix.
my 2 cents.
Although you could if you wanted to (if you still have your air pump and rats nest.) But you dont need to.
Although I havent read any of those threads, ive just been told this / /\ that.
But I still have the rats nest in my 7. And I dont use permix.
my 2 cents.
As to the whole synth/non-synth - i really doesn't matter anymore as long as you use GOOD HIGH QUAL. oils. I ran synthetic with no problems but also ran Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas tank to keep the motor cleaned out (on the off chance that the synth oil was actually leaving behind some deposits.
It's your call..........
10-16-06, 04:20 PM
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In addition to the oil, change the filter at every oil change. The recommendation here is to use the Mazda OEM filter. Frams aren't recommended. Other solid quality filters (such as purolator pure one) are OK.
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10-17-06, 08:13 PM
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I used Royal Purple in mine.....and ran TC3 2 cycle engine oil for my premix by the means of the OMP adapter from Rotary Aviation.....this allows your OMP to pull the oil from an oil tank that you fill with 2 cycle other than using crappy engine oil.
10-17-06, 10:15 PM
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Amsoil 20W50 series 2000 synthetic oil, AMSOIL Manual tranny fluid, and AMSOIL Synthetic premix, as I do not have a OMP anymore. Stuff works great, oil pressure stays rock solid where as other brands seem to have diluted out from the fuel dilution earlier and pressure drops. I run amsoil and k+n oil filters. This is what I stick with, but you can get whatever floats your boat.
10-18-06, 02:04 PM
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From what I've heard, the Frams don't have the filtering capacity of higher quality units, and there have been instances where the Frams have failed and actually come apart. This is the base model Frams. The Fram Tough Guards would probably be OK.
10-18-06, 09:00 PM
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Agree.....Fram is gay! If ya love your car go with the K&N filter like Blitzed said. K&N is proven to be one of the most high quality producers of automotive accessories.
10-19-06, 11:56 AM
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I wouldn't use Fram filters period. Actually I would NEVER use any filter other than a factory Mazda filter in my car. And I have always used Valvoline 20w-50 in my car. 140k on original turbos, still boosting 10 psi strong, and just recently one started leaking a little at the seal, so I must be doing something right.
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