Captain_Panic

iTrader: (15)

2 issues have been mentioned to me (this is prior to test driving the car) that I am curious about. This car has had some reliability/performance mods

Engine Modifications: Apexi AVC-R, HKS Downpipe, PFS Cat Back, Silicone Vacuum Hoses

Cooling Modifications: Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator, Petit AST, Performance Oil Coolers, Dual Custom Front Splitter and Radiator Ducting

Suspension Modifications: Koni Yellow Struts,Racing Beat Springs, Megan Racing Strut Tower Brace (front)

Misc Modifications: EGR Valve Removed, Water Temperature Gauge, Boost Gauge, Oil Pan Torque Brace, Stainless Steel Brake Lines

The first of the two issues I believe is no big deal. CEL is always on due to the EGR removal. I have read you can attach a relay (or upgrade the ECU) to eliminate this light (purely cosemetic issue ... but I am like most of you in wanting a clear cockpit). How difficult is the relay "fake out" of the stock ECU for the EGR being removed? Was the diagram I saw and read though really that straight forward?

The second is more concerning, but maybe just because of my inexperience with an AVC-R. The turbos and Oil Pan, Intake manifold gaskets, Transmission/Engine Seal were all recently replaced, and since that was done the owner has told me the AVC-R needs a little tweaking. Since the gaskets on the intake system were replaced the car was boosting high so it was tuned down a bit for safety.

Could this be highlighting a bigger issue, or simply is it an AVC-R tune as the current owner states.

I am looking at a few potential FDs and want to make the right decision, and this seems to be my best bet. Thanks for any insight.

Captain_Panic

iTrader: (15)

So after doing more research, the boost question really becomes the issue. Is what the current owner says he is seeing typical? Is this something that can truly be tuned out?

I did a lot of reading on the Turbo System on these cars and I know you need to be careful as you open up intakes and remove back pressure. Maybe an upgraded ECU needs to be in order?

cozmo kraemer

Get a PowerFC... solves a LOT of problems with the FD... Then find someone really good to tune the PFC and the AVC-R, A-Spec Tuning is right in your neck of the woods so they would be a good company to talk to about that.

I would MAKE SURE the CEL is just because of the EGR by pulling the ecu codes. It is also quite possible the erratic boost is because of improper installation of vacuum lines. What type of vacuum does the engine pull at idle?

I would at the very least have some local shop or Mazda dealer run a compression test on the rotors before purchasing. I would also want to see the car on a lift. Aspec would be a good resource for you, you should give them a call.

Captain_Panic

iTrader: (15)

Wow... A-Spec Tuning is literally 15 minutes from my house. Perfect! Thanks Coz...

Compression has been verified. Good thought about seeing the car on a lift... unfortunately the car is in Memphis TN so it will be a road trip when I plan to see/pickup the car

The exact issue is that the turbo will spike at near 12lbs when the second turbo kicks in at high gears. Fuel system hasn't been upgraded in this car so that is in borderline territory. I need to find a good manual to read up of the AVC-R i think too.

tt7hvn

iTrader: (5)

the reason it is spiking is because the car has a catback and the pre-cat removed

the stock wastegates cannot bypass enough of the exhaust to maintain 10lbs of boost due to lack of backpressure

better drive it back carefully

Captain_Panic

iTrader: (15)

Well, I did it. The car is phenominal. Stock airbox was the issue on the boost spiking. It wouldn't seal properly. The previous owner had it replaced and then relearned the AVCR.

Now I have been lurking on this forum for quite a long time, but I can never seem to find a real informative explanation of the AVCR and how it works. I plan on paying ASPEC to tune the car with an upgraded ECU and injectors, but i still want to learn as much as possible. The manual that came with the AVCR doesnt go into detail of why you would set someting one way vs another.

Mills

iTrader: (1)

Make sure to tell A-Spec that the correct engine setting for a 2-rotor engine on your boost controller is 4, not 6. That way you won't have to pay for an immediate retune like I do