Amirali1320

So I have a 1989 Mazda Rx7 turbo 2, bought it years back, never had time to look at it until now, and it's not running properly.

When turning over it will rev up to 2000-3000 and die. Trying to push the accelerator to make the rpm go back up doesn't do anything. When the engine is warm and the rpm is below 3500, you can push the accelerator very slowly and it will gain revs. Anytime the pedal is pushed there is a slight decrease in rpm then it increases normally.

Now I have gotten it to idle. At that time it was about 1200 rpm, but after 2mins it dropped to 200 rpm and died.

Also I have noticed that one day, when I tried to move the car and when the brake pedal was pushed down it died. So I'm not sure if that could be causing the problem to.

I have been looking through many forums and the FSM but I haven't found a fix. I tried all the main things what other people are saying like spark plugs, spark plug wires, injectors, vacuum leaks, bac valve, tps, air flow meter, good boost, timing, put a new Holley fuel pump, checked for fuel leaks, checked the thermo sensors as the said in the FSM
I would've check more stuff but I don't have a multimeter

And for the brakes I bleed them, checked the vacuum hose on the booster, rebuilt the brake master cylinder, so I don't know why it's also doing this.

I found a FSM and I have pretty much done everything they said that could be wrong.

As of right now I am not sure what else to check.
I will post a video on YouTube of me trying to get the car running.


Let me know what you think
Any suggestion is greatly appreciated Thanks

satch

iTrader: (1)

1. If you let a car sit for tears then there's a good chance the injectors need to be serviced as they can become clogged or will spray erratically.

2. Have you verified that you have proper fuel pressure according to what is specified in the FSM.

3. Check the voltage output of the alternator to verify that it's putting out the proper voltage. Should read close to 14 volts when idling at 750 rpm (not when idling at a higher amount).

4. Also, check for error codes. Ground the Orange wire in a single wire check connector located near the lead coil and w/key to on any error codes will be displayed.

5. What have you done to get the car to idle properly?

6. Have you checked for vacuum leaks.

7. Did you replace the fuel filter and the fuel sock in the fuel tank?

8. Does the exhaust manifold glow?

Amirali1320

When I replaced the fuel pump, it came with a new filter sock on it. The fuel filter is also new. The fuel pressure is good according to the FSM

I cleaned up the injectors and ran them direct just to make sure it works which it does.

The exhaust manifold doesn't glow for a fact because I raised up the car while trying to run it.

I looked all over the engine for vacuum leaks and found nothing.

I have tried to get the car to idle but it doesn't. Usually after 5 mins from holding the car at a steady rpm (3000) and the engine gets up to temperature, I can let go of the gas and the car would drop down to about 200 rpm then go back up to about 1000 rpm then just cut off.

Because the car doesn't idle, I would have to check the alternator voltage later.

As you stated in #4, about grounding the orange connector, I know there is a green connector but not orange. Also would the error codes pop up on the center dash screen? Because the check engine light doesn't even come on

Thanks

satch

iTrader: (1)

Check connector is Green and the wire is Orange.

Is it possible that the exhaust is clogged?

Have you jumpered the fuel check connector.

Which fuel injectors did you work on (all four of them)?

TPS and timing cannot be set w/a timing gun if the rpm is above 1100 rpm or so as the timing advances above that level.

Amirali1320

Ok I'll check with what the codes are saying

I don't think the exhaust is clogged. You can feel the air coming out the mufflers like a normal rx7

I wanted to jump the fuel check connector but I couldn't find much information about it. So how would I do that?
Now online I did see a relay by the front passenger headlight so I took that out and cleaned it up.

All injectors (Primary and Secondary) was taken out, cleaned, and tested

At certain points where the engine was at really low rpms I hooked up a timing light and checked the timing. Both the leading and trailing marks were on point so I didn't want to adjust the timing.

For the TPS I replaced it for a used one, and as a test, I disconnected it, start the engine, and it wouldn't start. so when it was connected back, it went back to normal (starting but still with the same problems)

satch

iTrader: (1)

There are two wires at the fuel check connector. Bridge the two wires w/another piece of wire.

The car should start w/o the TPS. When unplugged the ECU defaults to full throttle which might add more fuel but it should still start. If it doesn't that might indicate too much fuel which might point you to what would be causing too much fuel. Not sure one can eye an injector and tell if it's spraying properly though.

Amirali1320

When the TPS was disconnected, it didn't even attempt to fire up. You can tell from the smell that it was very rich. Now, because it didn't start, what could be some possible factors making it get too much fuel?

Alright, I will see if there is any codes, and jump the fuel check connector. I'll go ahead and just get some new injectors.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You could just have the injectors serviced where they will be cleaned and flow tested and you'll know what you're getting.

Amirali1320

Ok so I put in the injectors and checked for any codes, and nothing happened. The check engine light wasn't blinking.

When I jumpered the fuel connector the car did start faster than usual and it did idle but it still died when the accelerator was pushed down

satch

iTrader: (1)

After the car has idled for 30 minutes or so check the voltage on the G/R wire of the TPS and it should read close to 1 volt. What does yours read? Set it if it is out of kilter. If that doesn't change things for the better than unplug the TPS once again. If that doesn't help then replug it and unplug the AFM but make sure the check connector for fuel is still jumpered. If the car starts and idles properly then add more gas to see if it konks out or not. If it reacts better then be careful to not run the engine too long for an unplugged AFM will cause the exhaust manifold to overheat. You can also check the timing. If none of this helps then remove the oxygen sensor if you can as it is rather hard to do. Doing this opens up the exhaust somewhat and if the car runs better, as in you can press the throttle and not have it konk out, then that points to a restrictive exhaust.

Amirali1320

Problem Solved!!!!!!

Amirali1320

After giving up on the car, I had someone suggest that I should make sure that the fuel pump is not pinched or doesn't have a clogged filter. So after taking the fuel pump out, I had an old pump that wasn't working and noticed that it had a O-ring on the top part of the pump that goes inside of the tube, and the pump that came out of the car didn't have that O-ring. So I put the O-ring on the pump, re-install it back in the car, and started her up, and worked perfectly.

So basically just to sum it all up, the O-ring that goes on the pump and slides into the inlet tube was missing, so it wouldn't have enough fuel pressure to start the car and in turn, react like in the video.

Amirali1320

Thanks to all those who tried to help, and hopefully we can add this as a solution to help fix others who have the same problem

Thanks Again, Enjoy