aRReXX7

well here it goes, getting on the highway the other day, (1st into second gear right after i put the clutch in to go into 2nd) go to get back on the gas and she falls flat on her face. I then repeat the same motion and still nothing. check the fuel pump real quick by pulling the hoses off the sending unit and no fuel/little fuel on KOEO or Crank.

Replaced pump on side of highway with new (somehow found a place with one in stock)

towed home after no start after replacement...ignition is good, plugs are colored normally, coolant is good, unplugged AFM and not much change unless floored (2500-3k tops). started a little easier after unplugging TPS (up to 4k-4500) with previous procedure.

so im thinking my AFM **** the bed.....right or wrong and its kind of difficult to find a decent price on one used. 125 or more is what ive been running into and who knows how long that may last. aftermarket options?

sorry for the life story

aRReXX7

better question being aftermarket or used oem one?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

You checked to see if any hoses have popped of,like your Intercooler hose?

aRReXX7

I have nearly no fuel pressure tho. But I will double check the clamps after I'm out of work. I'm 99% sure they're fine

aRReXX7

So, all clamps are tight. Attempted to blow thru fuel rail after removing both supply and return lines, and nothing.

aRReXX7

gonna test the fuel pressure regulator and dampener tonight....ill let you guys know how that goes

satch

iTrader: (1)

Not sure you can physically blow through the Fuel Pressure Regulator. And how did you measure for fuel pressure and were you able to measure it?

aRReXX7

no i dont think you can physically blow thru it. found that one out the hard way. i left my vacuum pump(to open the fuel pressure regulator) in my toolbox at work. and measuring for fuel pressure is right off the filter, in which i will have to grab from work as well

aRReXX7

fuel filter is good. pump is good. jumped 2 pin connector to prime and pump ran. disconnected line from bottom of filter and cranked engine-fuel came out (but when not cranking, it did not come out). should i be looking into spark next?

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the fuel check connector is jumpered and the key was to on and it primed then that must mean the pump is on thus fuel should flow but you state when not cranking the fuel did not flow out of the hose. So which is it?

aRReXX7

crank-fuel flows. no crank (koeo)-no fuel flow. when i jump the connector, pump stays on and does flow fuel

satch

iTrader: (1)

The pump does not turn on only w/key to on. Secondly, the sight of fuel flow doesn't necessarily translate into proper fuel pressure. Thirdly, checking for spark would not be a bad idea. Lastly, you might want to try to start and idle the car w/the AFM disconnected if you feel the AFM could be an issue.

aRReXX7

praying its not the afm. it is very hard to start, have to hold it to the floor to get it to start and even then it struggles to stay up at 4k. i did it both with the afm plugged and unplugged, and got almost identical results. i tested the afm and it tested ok according to fsm

satch

iTrader: (1)

You might want to check the fuel pressure and the pressure might be fine but the injecors could conceiveably be clogged. And your cat might be clogged as well. If you removed the Oxygen Sensor it would allow the exhaust to flow better so if the removal of the sensor allowed the car to run better then the cat is probably restrictive in nature.

aRReXX7

Thanks for all your help by the way. But the cats are deleted. And I just replaced the injectors about 6 months ago. I'm gonna check spark today after work as well as any recommendations that you may have.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Make sure the Green/Red wire of the TPS is set to 1 volt w/key to on and the engine as warm as it can get. Also, check the Boost Sensor. Should measure close to 2.5 volts w/key to on at the Brown/Red wire and the vacuum hose to the sensor must be pulled when testing. And one of the injector plugs might have come loose. And you might want to check for error codes. And measuring the fuel pressure would help to narrow down the possible causes.

http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/error%20codes.html

aRReXX7

satch, it doesn't stay running at all. Starts up very hard, shoots up to 4k and then dies right down and shuts off with my foot floored. I have fuel and spark. Guess I gotta smoke it and find my vacuum leak or leaks

satch

iTrader: (1)

Checking for vacuum leaks is a very good idea.

aRReXX7

Figured a fog machine (party kind) will have to do because I don't have a smoke machine at my house

aRReXX7

so i have smoked it with a fog machine (probably better than any nitrogen system used) and i have a massive leak from the inlet side of the turbo. So i believe that i will need to find a new/used intake tube from the afm to the inlet turbo....unless there is an aftermarket option?

aRReXX7

i was thinking the corksport aluminum turbo inlet pipe rather than find another stock one. It will also be better

aRReXX7

So after smoke testing and trying a temp repair, still a crank no start. I have great fuel pressure, but no return...

satch

iTrader: (1)

So you're suggesting that there is no fuel coming from the return line? How are you aware of the fuel pressure? Are you measuring it or just making an educated guess based on what you see occuring?

aRReXX7

Yes. Nothing coming from the return line at all. I am making an educated guess at fuel pressure because at the time, I did not have a pressure tester. Even tho I don't have that, shoudnt I have as much supply as I do return?

satch

iTrader: (1)

You definitely then have an obstruction which is preventing the fuel from being present at the return line. Of course you need to verify that the fuel is present in the send line to begin with, which you can jumper the fuel check connector and w/key to on the fuel pump will turn on.