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So I had little leakage on one of primary injectors (everything was working fine just little fuel getting on engine block) and decided to change gaskets on both injectors. Changed gaskets, assembled everything back together, car was working fine but then after like 2 minutes some weird noise happened and car suddenly started working like tractor.
I unplugged power cable from the rear rotor injector, car started and was working smooth on only front rotor. Than I unplugged front front rotor injector and plugged rear - car won't start on rear only rotor. I was thinking there is maybe problem with injector so I switched positions - front injector to the rear, and rear to front, but still the same problem - car is working on front rotor only, and on the rear it won't start, and on both injectors connected it is working like tractor
I've installed new spark plugs, but nothing changed, after some testing on new spark plugs I unscrewed them and observed that front spark plugs are clean but rear were black and wet - so there is some combustion problem. I've also checked if there is spark on every plug and it is OK.
Afraid that something could get inside engine I've checked compression and it is pretty much the same on both rotors, maybe even a little bit better on rear rotor.
Now I don't have more ideas what happened. Car is working like a tractor, vibrating, and producing little smoke. I count on your knowledge and help
check your injector plugs to see if a pin has broken loose and pushed back inside the connector. happens all the time on 30 year old crunchy plastic connectors.
the wire can also snap inside the loom where you can't see, in that event you'd need to continuity/ohm test the injector wire to the ECM and verify 12v from the EGI circuit.
Last edited by notanymore; Apr 18, 2025 at 02:47 PM.
Again, you'll need to start checking the 12v input to that rotor 2 primary injector, as well as the wiring between the ECM and the injector. It's pretty obvious that injector is no longer working after whatever you did, and as i said, the wiring can snap right in half and you won't even know it or see it. the rest of the diagnostics involve getting access to the ECM under the passenger foot well and using a DVOM.
I've checked all wirings with DVOM... And also checked the injectors right in the engine bay - I have rotated fuel bar so that injectors were not insert in engine, and both injectors worked similar when I've tried starting engine
if you have a spare CAS you can install it off the motor and spin it manually with the key on, disconnect #1 injector so it doesn't dump fuel into the #1 rotor while testing. #2 injector should be clicking while you spin it.
if you get nothing there's obviously an issue with the injector or wiring to the ECM/EGI circuits.
Last edited by notanymore; Apr 19, 2025 at 12:20 PM.