boost d3vil

iTrader: (1)

I just recently picked up my 93 FD and the motor was taken apart by the previous owner he was in the middle of the rebuild process and now its my mess to deal with.

I have rebuilt my share of honda engines in the past and a few domestics. Never really messed with Rotary engines before so it could be a long long project especially with 3 totes and a lawn mower trailer full of engine parts. I do have the 94 workshop manual which gives me a complete rundown on assembly but damn it lol there's bolts and nuts everywhere in this bucket and without tearing down the engine myself and using labels on things it sure doesn't make things easy.

Anyway I'm considering either taking this on or just forgetting about it and buy another 13b already assembled. Yes 2JZ and LS1s have crossed my mind but not lookin to spend that kind of cash right now.

So what do you guys think I should do?

GreatShamanGT

iTrader: (9)

Just buy another engine.

WaachBack

iTrader: (21)

If you can build a Honda engine, you can rebuild a rotary. In fact, a rotary should be easier. Just but the RA Bruce Turrentine video and you should be good to go.

boost d3vil

iTrader: (1)

I think I've decided to go ahead with the rebuild and if things turn south or I get too frustrated lol I'll just break down and get the 2jz engine. Seems they're about the same price as a 13B from japan. Only I'll have to get a trans, mounts, ect all the good stuff thats involved in swapping a motor that doesn't belong lol. So over the next few months I'll be posting up my progress.

Discokid

iTrader: (1)

Dont bastardize your car. Get a rebuild video. Either Bruce Turrentine or Mazdatrix. Both are great, I like the Mazdatrix one, Kyle does a great job of explaining things. A rotary is alot easier than a piston

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

If you have all the parts, it will be far less expensive to reassemble it, then to convert to a different type of engine

boost d3vil

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE

I finally got my other projects out of the way and started to work on the FD today. Sorted out a bunch of engine parts and took some pics for you guys to see what I'm working with!

I wish I could take the guys head off who disassembled this engine without labeling any bolts/nuts!!!!

You'll notice I have an extra set of housings and rotors. Which are for the N/A motor so I can't use them.

rnz520

iTrader: (10)

what a mess, good luck to you, I think go ahead and rebuild it, it will be cheaper you seem to have most of the parts for it.

boost d3vil

iTrader: (1)

Lol thanks I see your from culpeper, me too. Amissville actually.

Discokid

iTrader: (1)

Too bad I JUST moved from Va (Fredericksburg). I wouldve been down to help. Get a rebuild video and the shop manual, its pretty easy if you see a step by step reassembly. I just did mine, and its not that hard, just time consuming, lol.

boost d3vil

iTrader: (1)

Well damn lol.. I think I will order a dvd tonight.

boost d3vil

iTrader: (1)

Got my Bruce Turrentine dvd in the mail yesterday. Going to start cleaning and inspecting everything this week.

Discokid

iTrader: (1)

Great. Be sure to check the bushings. Hopefully you can use alot ofthose parts again. As for the seals, its better to replace all of them. Once you see the engine apart andthe reassembly its not so bad, youll be able to look at those parts and know exactly where they go. Trust me, like I said- its way easier that a piston, just time consuming.

boost d3vil

iTrader: (1)

More pics..

boost d3vil

iTrader: (1)

What's the best way for me to tell the difference between the N/A rotors, rotor housings and end housings and the twin turbo rotors, rotor housings, and end housings.

boost d3vil

iTrader: (1)

Just from the markings on the four rotor housings here is what I found... 2 are stamped with a number 4 on the side. One is stamped with a 1 and one is stamped with a 5

At the top of one it has 860503 ARS and one just has 860503 the other 2 housings don't have any numbers on the top.

Discokid

iTrader: (1)

I am more versed with s4's and s5's

from what I know, there is a difference in the rotors... the weight between the s4, 5 and 6 is a little different- the older the heavier. s5 and s6 weigh the same weight (9.54lbs) and the same compression ratio (9.0:1), now this information is only relevant to the turbo models. I cannot tell you the difference if they are n/a or turbo. All of them appear to have 2mm apex grooves. Those numbers are for the side seals (which really dont matter cuz all new side seals come the same length and you gotta file them to fit).

the housings, I can tell you, a difference between s4 and s5 are that the spark plug holes a slightly higher on the s5. There was talk a long time ago between the s4 and s5 knock sensor locations. Im not a 100% sure but the s5 and s6 housings are the same.

I just started building them, I am still a learner.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

as long as the rotor housings have not been molested, it's quick and easy to discern turbo from non-turbo. look at the exhaust ports.

sound diffuser = N/A
open = turbo (T, RE, REW)

also, the oil squirters are shaped differently on the REW.

the side housings are pretty easy, too. look for the mounting points/bosses. the REW is rear mount, whereas the FC would be on the intermediate housing. to distinguish front housings, look for the threaded oil port by the front dowel area. a non-turbo engine will not have one, the REW will. some other points are oil filler necks, EGR passage on the top of the intermediate and of course 6-ports versus 4.

the rotors will be a bit harder. this is just a theory on my part because i have had my REW for about 3 years now and i have yet to pull it apart. more experienced heads may be needed on this one. anyway, the REW rotors should have a slightly shallower recess to them, when compared to an N/A rotor. you could mess with trying to sort them by weight, but the MUST be absolutely clean - no dirt, no oil, nothing! i supposed you could also measure the volume of the recesses of all 4 and compare them. sorry i can't be of more help on this one.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

also, it might be helpful to take some better pictures in the sense that you should keep like parts together in the shot - sort of like what you did with your last shot of the rotors. in many of the preceding shots it was hard to see details because i think you were trying to get as many parts in the frame as you could.

good luck.

boost d3vil

iTrader: (1)

Awesome thanks diabolical I was able to determine which are the turbo rotor housings easy going by the sound diffuser.

As far as the sides and center plate I went by the holes for the Intake manifold. The turbo ones are shaped in an oval and the N/A had 2 circular ports.

Turns out I'm missing an end housing for the turbo!!

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

glad i was able to help.

i think i spotted an REW front housing, so i guess you're missing the rear? you could look in the Gen III Parts section. i see them every once in a while where people will break up a set.

how are you making out with the rotors?

boost d3vil

iTrader: (1)

Yep I'm missing the rear but I contacted the seller who I bought the car from and he found it in his garage.

As far as the rotors I think I've determined which are the turbo ones because of those dips/dishes in the sides the deeper ones should be turbo right? and the shallower ones are N/A or do I have it backwards.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

no ... you have it right, but that's just according to my logic.

Discokid

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Diabolical, I learned sumthin too, lol. Sorry I wasnt too much help. Im just learnin too

boost d3vil

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys for all your help I'm now in the process of finding and ordering the rest of the rebuild parts I need like o-rings, bearings, and gaskets.