12a Unflooding -
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12a Unflooding -
Hello!
This thread will go through how i deflood my 1985 rx7 GS (which happens often)
This almost always works for me, and i cant seem to find good unflooding proceedures for 12a.
Step One:
The first thing you want to do is try to remove as much fuel from the engine as possible, but keep it lubricated.
Fuel Pump Wire
You want to disconnect the power to the fuel pump. My car was stripped when i bought it so you might have to dig some interior up, but its behind the drivers seat and about 3" from the driveline tunnel.
Fuel Cut Relay
Next, disconnect the fuel cut relay. Its under the dash on the right side of the steering column. Careful not to pull the whole relay from its brass(?) case.
You may also want to tighten your idle mixture screw all the way to seat (do not torque it tight)
2 stroke oil
Putting 1/4 oz 2 stroke oil in the primaries.
Next, take 1/4oz of 2 stroke oil (make sure it is WTC-3 rated, some oils are not) and put them in the primaries of the carburetor.
Do NOT use ATF!! It is bad for the main o-ring and oil control rings since they are rubber. If you are concerned about carbon build up, use seafoam or marine fogging oil while the engine is warmed up & running.
This step is purely for lubrication of the engine because we will be cranking it over with no oil pressure for a while.
Plug leads - labeled
Set them aside-
PLEASE LABEL your plug wires, disconnect them, and set them aside so they dont get caught in any belts.
If you forget to label them, the distributor has T1, T2, L1, L2 on the top to be fool-proof. But, just label them anyways
All you need to do now is pump the accelorator (once is enough) to let the oil into the combustion chamber, then crank the engine for 15-30 seconds at a time until the engine starts making noise. Leave the choke **** all the way in and dont touch the throttle while cranking. Then, repeat the process (starting from putting oil in the carb until here) one or two more times depending on how long the engine has been sitting while flooded.
Step Two:
Reconnect all electrical components: fuel cut relay, fuel pump, and plug leads.
Pump the accelerator pedal to the floor 3-5 times and start cranking. If you here it sputter or fire, floor the accelerator and hold it.
From this point on, warm the car up with the choke like you normally would, and you're done!!
(ENGINE WILL SMOKE)
If it doesnt start, add oil to the carb again. This time, the oil will provide better compression on all surfaces. Make sure the volt meter reads 12v while cranking
Battery charger
Mine was cranking at 10v so i decided to charge it. Repeat Step Two until it starts. The first time i unflooded it probably took 6 times!!
If you try more than 5/6 times refer to the complex unflood procedure for 13b engines
Hope this helps!!!
Happy Brapping!
This thread will go through how i deflood my 1985 rx7 GS (which happens often)
This almost always works for me, and i cant seem to find good unflooding proceedures for 12a.
Step One:
The first thing you want to do is try to remove as much fuel from the engine as possible, but keep it lubricated.
Fuel Pump Wire
You want to disconnect the power to the fuel pump. My car was stripped when i bought it so you might have to dig some interior up, but its behind the drivers seat and about 3" from the driveline tunnel.
Fuel Cut Relay
Next, disconnect the fuel cut relay. Its under the dash on the right side of the steering column. Careful not to pull the whole relay from its brass(?) case.
You may also want to tighten your idle mixture screw all the way to seat (do not torque it tight)
2 stroke oil
Putting 1/4 oz 2 stroke oil in the primaries.
Next, take 1/4oz of 2 stroke oil (make sure it is WTC-3 rated, some oils are not) and put them in the primaries of the carburetor.
Do NOT use ATF!! It is bad for the main o-ring and oil control rings since they are rubber. If you are concerned about carbon build up, use seafoam or marine fogging oil while the engine is warmed up & running.
This step is purely for lubrication of the engine because we will be cranking it over with no oil pressure for a while.
Plug leads - labeled
Set them aside-
PLEASE LABEL your plug wires, disconnect them, and set them aside so they dont get caught in any belts.
If you forget to label them, the distributor has T1, T2, L1, L2 on the top to be fool-proof. But, just label them anyways
All you need to do now is pump the accelorator (once is enough) to let the oil into the combustion chamber, then crank the engine for 15-30 seconds at a time until the engine starts making noise. Leave the choke **** all the way in and dont touch the throttle while cranking. Then, repeat the process (starting from putting oil in the carb until here) one or two more times depending on how long the engine has been sitting while flooded.
Step Two:
Reconnect all electrical components: fuel cut relay, fuel pump, and plug leads.
Pump the accelerator pedal to the floor 3-5 times and start cranking. If you here it sputter or fire, floor the accelerator and hold it.
From this point on, warm the car up with the choke like you normally would, and you're done!!
(ENGINE WILL SMOKE)
If it doesnt start, add oil to the carb again. This time, the oil will provide better compression on all surfaces. Make sure the volt meter reads 12v while cranking
Battery charger
Mine was cranking at 10v so i decided to charge it. Repeat Step Two until it starts. The first time i unflooded it probably took 6 times!!
If you try more than 5/6 times refer to the complex unflood procedure for 13b engines
Hope this helps!!!
Happy Brapping!
Last edited by rotary_problems; 06-17-16 at 01:46 PM. Reason: Typo(again)
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This is true, but it takes less time believe it or not. This is aimed at an audience that may not have the tools or confidence to pull their plugs out. Furthermore, pulling the plugs and cranking is sometimes dangerous if your plug leads get gas in/on them or if there was an electrical short. So its just my preference to leave them in unless its totally necessary
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It is a lot of work, but its not always obvious what the problem is, and if you need to depend on the car to get you somewhere asap this method requires 0 tools
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12a unflooding
That seems like a really easy process. Glad I came across this post. Just on a side note as well, would it make the process a lot easier if the fuel pump fuse was taken out rather then disconnecting the actual pump and the fuel cut relay?
many thanks
many thanks
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