everybody knows that there are radiator leak fix it fluids out there. so will this stuff seal up a small knick in my coolant seal in my chamber. my car doesnt profusely burn smoke for 2 min after start up, its not even noticable except for me having to add coolant every couple hundred miles. im sure it is a small seal fracture. the only risk i see is some of this goop leaking into combustion with the coolant. should i or should i not. im ready to go do it now so please respond. thanks brothas.

 

i used crc on my car. no more leaks. this should make my car last until end of the yr or until i can get my engine rebuild.

 

thanks on that brand darkside
, any other 2 cents?

 

cmon, somebody else has to have tried this, if it doesnt work you can just flush the whole system again with the water hose in the fiiller, drain plug out, and car on. i dont want another engine! itll be the fourth!

 

Return of the living thread. I am wondering the same thing can radiator leak fix it be used to patch minor O ring Failure.

 

I was losing coolant, threw in some Bars Leak, and its been fine for the past 2000 miles or so. Its worth a shot, but I would try the CRC if I were you. I've heard better things about it.

 

CRC - whats that.

 

Pep Boys sells it ... clear fluid with copper particle floating in it... I'm thinking of trying it tonight. I'm going to rebuild my motor and replace the radiator ... not much to loose if it doesn't work.

 

Look at this:
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/o-ring_fix.html

 

Yep ... that's where I got the idea. I'll let everyone know how it turns out in a week or two.

 

Good Luck!

 

Hey all,

It's been more than a couple of weeks ... been busy with a boost prob, PFC, fan mod, Silverstar headlamps, etc.

The car has been very drivable compared to before. It actually draws enough water back in at night to function without additional water in the morning.

The only catch is that every other day I burp the air from the water pump neck fill cap. The car is parked and cooled enough that the UIM is only warm. I slowly (with gloves) loosen the cap. A small amount of air is released and then I cap it again without allowing water to escape.

Lately the amount of air is very small. I may try running without the burp procedure next week. In the morning, I can see a small amount of white smoke after start. On the other hand, the car is relatively smooth idling right after start. It used to be a rumbling monster for the first 60 seconds ... lots of white smoke also.

All in all, I'm happy. The CRC will tide me over until I'm ready for a rebuild ... this will probably be in the next three months.

I'm off to search the forums for rebuild info ...

 

Holy Crap!!! That site almost bring a tear of joy to my eye.

No more Po Mans Water injection for me

 

anything liquidized that you add into your radiator to fix leaks will not only fill the hole that is leaking, but will also fill the holes that NEED to be OPEN :P Actually thats what i heard...that those stop leak stuff will hurt the engine.

 

Not really, the CRC only congeals when it is exposed to air - a leak. It's only effective for smaller leaks, and if you catch it when a small leak first appears, there is an excellent chance it will fix it permanently.

I can't emphasize this enough - you MUST competely flush and clean the system multiple times before using it as outlined in the Scuderiaciriani site, or it won't work.
It's time consuming but simple and I would like to add a couple of things:

1) leave the front end on jack stands the entire time while doing this, it makes it much faster. Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and engage the parking brake.

2) Make sure you drain the engine block each flush cycle through the 14 mm bolt just above the driver side oil rail.

3) Take off the belly pan so you have easier access and less mess with the radiator drain.

4) Don't forget to replace the O ring on the radiator drain and put a new crush washer (metric copper brake line washers work just fine in place of the aluminum OEM) on the 14 mm bolt when you are done with all of the flushings. You only need to finger tighten them in between flushings.

5) Don't forget to use distilled water (and coolant) for the final fill, tap water is NOT acceptable.

6) Use new caps (pressure and filler - they are cheap) at the end so you KNOW any additional leaks are not coming from them. Just taking off and putting on the caps multiple times is enough to score the rubber gaskets and cause them to have an incredibly small leak.
Wipe the necks with a clean wet rag before putting on the new caps to remove any small abrasive particles left on them.

Happy rotoring.

 

I've seen allot of posts with fear of blocking small passages, etc. When Tri-Point rebuilds my motor, I'll let everyone know what they say. I.E. what the engine looks like. This is realistically three months (to completion) off.

 

Both RonKMiller and I had good results with the CRC copper block weld. What Ron says is dead on. I had a coolant seal that leaked and caused hard starting if the car sat more than a few hours. I used the block sealer and continued to drive and race the car every weekend until I finally lost an apex seal at 98,000 miles. That of course was completely unrelated to the coolant leak.

It does not clog the cooling system! My radiator, hoses etc were fine as I inspected them when swapping in the rebuilt motor.

 

Thats what I wanna hear, I will try this this weekend and let everyone know results.