Not passing Emissions? CHECK HERE
Not passing Emissions? CHECK HERE
Over a long period of time, i have noticed that alot of people are having some trouble passing emissions. I was in canadian tire theother day, and i saw this stuff called G2P Guarenteed 2 pass. Then i thought of the
Rx-7 buddies! If your car still does not pass they will give u double your money...what to lose? Maybe this product isn't as hyped up as they say it is. Give it a try!
Rx-7 buddies! If your car still does not pass they will give u double your money...what to lose? Maybe this product isn't as hyped up as they say it is. Give it a try!
It's only a cleaner, you don't put it an and take your test, you put it in a full tank before your test- run it dry, then fill up and take it- it's nothing but fuel injector cleaner.
If you read the label, it ONLY is guaranteed if your car has a fully stock and perfectly functional emmisions control system- which rules out most rx7's!!
If you want to pass your test, and have noe emmisions equipment- get a cheap cat, have a shop wled flanges on it, and install it, slap on the air pump with ONLY a hose to the cat.... (put the ACV on to pass visual), and (The biggie) dump a bottle of rubbing alcohol in your 1/4 -1/2 full tank. (DON'T run it hard while the alcohol is in the tank though....)
You'll pass so bad it'll be funny.
If you have a cat and air pump on, and just failed emmisions, try that cleaner, and the alcohol will take care of everything else...
Take the cheap cat off ASAP though- becuase It won't last on a rotary!! Just keep it for the testing.
If you read the label, it ONLY is guaranteed if your car has a fully stock and perfectly functional emmisions control system- which rules out most rx7's!!
If you want to pass your test, and have noe emmisions equipment- get a cheap cat, have a shop wled flanges on it, and install it, slap on the air pump with ONLY a hose to the cat.... (put the ACV on to pass visual), and (The biggie) dump a bottle of rubbing alcohol in your 1/4 -1/2 full tank. (DON'T run it hard while the alcohol is in the tank though....)
You'll pass so bad it'll be funny.
If you have a cat and air pump on, and just failed emmisions, try that cleaner, and the alcohol will take care of everything else...
Take the cheap cat off ASAP though- becuase It won't last on a rotary!! Just keep it for the testing.
If you want to pass your test, and have noe emmisions equipment- get a cheap cat, have a shop wled flanges on it, and install it, slap on the air pump with ONLY a hose to the cat.... (put the ACV on to pass visual), and (The biggie) dump a bottle of rubbing alcohol in your 1/4 -1/2 full tank. (DON'T run it hard while the alcohol is in the tank though....)
You'll pass so bad it'll be funny.
If you have a cat and air pump on, and just failed emmisions, try that cleaner, and the alcohol will take care of everything else...
Take the cheap cat off ASAP though- becuase It won't last on a rotary!! Just keep it for the testing.
You'll pass so bad it'll be funny.
If you have a cat and air pump on, and just failed emmisions, try that cleaner, and the alcohol will take care of everything else...
Take the cheap cat off ASAP though- becuase It won't last on a rotary!! Just keep it for the testing.
a. how much is a new belt
b. how hard is it to install the belt?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
If you've been running your car with the stock cats but no airpump, the odds are that your stock main cat is completely dead. The airpump is a required component of the stock emissions system. If you remove the cats, you remove the airpump and vice versa.
I've never run the cats without my airpump. I switched to a 3'' dp/mp a long time ago and just took off my air pump the other day. I don't think running it for 30 min. once a year would destroy my cat. I think I'm going to give it a try just because putting on the air pump again sounds like a bitch. When I fail massively I'll come back and say you told me so, and then I'll ask nicely for instructions on how to put back on the belt.
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
I flunked with all stock equipment(idle CO was high and everything else passed) and it turned out my Air Control Valve wasn't working (or so the aircare/mazda dealer told me).
They replaced it with one I got from a wrecker ($50 Canadian - what a deal!) and I passed with flying colours! You have to get the air-care guys to put it in so that they put down a $500 plus part is defective and repaired so you get the conditional pass anyway even if it doesn't pass. They also tested the part which was good cause it came with a 4 month guarantee! All this for $45.00 labour. What a deal!
I was told you could cheat with 1 litre of denatured alcohol in 1/4 tank. Does this work? Can it harm the engine?
They replaced it with one I got from a wrecker ($50 Canadian - what a deal!) and I passed with flying colours! You have to get the air-care guys to put it in so that they put down a $500 plus part is defective and repaired so you get the conditional pass anyway even if it doesn't pass. They also tested the part which was good cause it came with a 4 month guarantee! All this for $45.00 labour. What a deal!
I was told you could cheat with 1 litre of denatured alcohol in 1/4 tank. Does this work? Can it harm the engine?
what this stuff is it just your basic.. fuel injector cleaner....but they just changed the package. to "Gaurantee to pass" emmisions. if your goin to go this route ....i'd say go get some methyl hydrate instead and that will do the trick....
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,241
Likes: 84
From: BC, Canada
Methyl hydrate burns very cleanly. It is fine for rotaries, just lay off full boost if you have it in your tank. Add in 1:5 ratio with gasoline, and take the test, then fill up. It also bonds to water and allows it to be drawn into the fuel pump, and burned... great for removing water particles from the fuel system. In fact, it is available to buy as "water remover" in small amounts, at a greatly inflated price.
As for just welding on any cat... VERY BAD idea.
When I got my first TII, they had done this, with one from a chevy truck. Passed emissions, but the 4 days later the cat melted and formed a huge bloackge, and the backpressure killed the motor. Low compression all the way around.
As for just welding on any cat... VERY BAD idea.
When I got my first TII, they had done this, with one from a chevy truck. Passed emissions, but the 4 days later the cat melted and formed a huge bloackge, and the backpressure killed the motor. Low compression all the way around.
Originally posted by Aaron Cake
If you've been running your car with the stock cats but no airpump, the odds are that your stock main cat is completely dead. The airpump is a required component of the stock emissions system. If you remove the cats, you remove the airpump and vice versa.
If you've been running your car with the stock cats but no airpump, the odds are that your stock main cat is completely dead. The airpump is a required component of the stock emissions system. If you remove the cats, you remove the airpump and vice versa.

what causes the cats to melt? heat
what causes heat? the burning inside the cat
what causes the burning? the air from the airpump mixing with leftover gases
no air pump, no burn, no heat, cat lasts longer but has way higher emissions out the back, as it's not doing it's job without the pump.
I've been running a unversial 3" hi flow cat for over 6 months now with no pump or ACV with no probs...
Thats just 3 months. Come a year time you won' be able to see from one end out the other as far as your Cat Is concerned due to a lack of air source (Air Pump) feeding fresh Air to your Cat.
If you want your ACV "to work with you", consider this.
Take the vac hose just above the acv(front hose), blocked off that hose with a screw. What that does is relax a diaphram and send air thru the split air pipe all the time to the cat, where as if it was left as factory, it sends split air to the cat only when you let off the throttle.
However, emmission testing Is a thing of the past for me. I don't worry about that stuff anymore seeing how I am taken care off.
Thats why I have a brand new EGR Valve for sale and a 3yr old Air Control Valve aswell with receipts. Both for s4.
Take the vac hose just above the acv(front hose), blocked off that hose with a screw. What that does is relax a diaphram and send air thru the split air pipe all the time to the cat, where as if it was left as factory, it sends split air to the cat only when you let off the throttle.
However, emmission testing Is a thing of the past for me. I don't worry about that stuff anymore seeing how I am taken care off.
Thats why I have a brand new EGR Valve for sale and a 3yr old Air Control Valve aswell with receipts. Both for s4.
awwww damn it to hell. Ok so I guess I'll have to actually put that damn thing back on. Is there any instructions for putting it back on. Ironic but I'm more scared when messing with belts then I am delving into the turbo swap I've almost completed.
Another quesiton, since I'd just have on the airpump for emissions could I just run a hose from the end of the air pump, and connect it to the lower half of my split air pipe. My split air pipe rusted shortly after I got the car and I have it connected with heater hose and clamps so I'm not breaking anything that isn't already broken
This way I'd be getting massive amounts of air to the cat all the time.
Another quesiton, since I'd just have on the airpump for emissions could I just run a hose from the end of the air pump, and connect it to the lower half of my split air pipe. My split air pipe rusted shortly after I got the car and I have it connected with heater hose and clamps so I'm not breaking anything that isn't already broken
This way I'd be getting massive amounts of air to the cat all the time.
usually,
catalytic converter melt-down comes from a mixture that is too rich in HC (in other words, very rich mixture).
so, you do need an air pump to prevent converter meltdown if your mixture is rich.
If your mixture is stoic, then it's not really needed, for instance, when you are in closed loop.
just my 2 cents,
Hugues -
catalytic converter melt-down comes from a mixture that is too rich in HC (in other words, very rich mixture).
so, you do need an air pump to prevent converter meltdown if your mixture is rich.
If your mixture is stoic, then it's not really needed, for instance, when you are in closed loop.
just my 2 cents,
Hugues -
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Originally posted by Scott 89t2
another great false rotary myth
what causes the cats to melt? heat
what causes heat? the burning inside the cat
what causes the burning? the air from the airpump mixing with leftover gases
no air pump, no burn, no heat, cat lasts longer but has way higher emissions out the back, as it's not doing it's job without the pump.
I've been running a unversial 3" hi flow cat for over 6 months now with no pump or ACV with no probs...
another great false rotary myth

what causes the cats to melt? heat
what causes heat? the burning inside the cat
what causes the burning? the air from the airpump mixing with leftover gases
no air pump, no burn, no heat, cat lasts longer but has way higher emissions out the back, as it's not doing it's job without the pump.
I've been running a unversial 3" hi flow cat for over 6 months now with no pump or ACV with no probs...
Well I can comment on a few of these. Heh this thread started almost one year ago. I was able to get my car to pass emissions with no ACV at all. I just put back on my airpump and ran a thick rubber hose to the lower part of the split air pipe. Bingo cleanest FC I bet these people have ever smogged. I don't have to pass visual just a smogger....
As for the stock cat destroying thing without the airpump...After I bought my t2 last year I drove around for about a month before I got the oil changed. I noticed that my split air pipe had rusted in half and the cat was getting absolutely 0 pressurized air from the pump...well I managed to pass emissions with my ghetto rigged set up so I don't think it killed the cat. It might be detrimental to it's life, but it won't kill it very quickly from what I've seen.
As for the stock cat destroying thing without the airpump...After I bought my t2 last year I drove around for about a month before I got the oil changed. I noticed that my split air pipe had rusted in half and the cat was getting absolutely 0 pressurized air from the pump...well I managed to pass emissions with my ghetto rigged set up so I don't think it killed the cat. It might be detrimental to it's life, but it won't kill it very quickly from what I've seen.
Full Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Aurora, IL
Well as this all about passing emmisions, I have a quick question. My engine recently died on me and I will be getting it rebuilt soon with a street port. I was wonder if anyone with this port has had any problem passing emissions. I also have brand new cats to throw on just for the test. My car is a 88 N/A
Thanks
~Anthony
Thanks
~Anthony
i ALSO have a question 
I have a jspec S5 TII motor, To pass VISUAL do all i need is the airpump, ACV, and cat converter? How hard is it to install the ACV and airpump? How many vac lines do i have to put back on the car? (engine has 4 vac lines, no emissions)

I have a jspec S5 TII motor, To pass VISUAL do all i need is the airpump, ACV, and cat converter? How hard is it to install the ACV and airpump? How many vac lines do i have to put back on the car? (engine has 4 vac lines, no emissions)
as long as you have the airpump and put back on the stock fuel pump you will pass IMO. I did have to put the stocker fuel pump back on...a whole 15 min. job.
As for porting I have no experience with that, but I think that you 'should' be able to pass with just a street port, hopefully someone can chime in.
As for porting I have no experience with that, but I think that you 'should' be able to pass with just a street port, hopefully someone can chime in.





