I had to change starters the other day and forgot how good this tip is. It requires a 135mm long bottom bolt to replace the factory starter bolt. The pitch is 1.5 on this bolt. Take your current POS(+) battery cable and turn it into your new NEG(-) cable by hooking it up to a new NEG battery terminal for your battery and then unbolting it from the POS terminal of the starter solenoid and using the exposed threads of the new 135 mm bolt to secure it at that point to the starter housing. Get a new cable of AT LEAST the same gauge wire as the NEG cable (pref larger...) and make this your new POS(+) battery cable. This will, of course, be the new connection between baterry POS and the starter solenoid terminal. This will absolutely cure any slow starter problems unless it's the starter itself about to die. A bonus is this new "ground strap" kicks butt over any factory stuff. Your dash lights and electronics will thank you...

 

im a little confused...too much beer maybe??

 

No, just too wordy now that I look at it. I'll toss in a hand drawn schematic when I get to it tonight. It's easier than it sounds....

 

What you need:
135mm long x 1.5 thread pitch bolt
Two stock positive battery cables
Various wrenches to remove starter and battery cables
Battery maintenance tools (Terminal cleaner or brush, grease)

Go do it:
1.) Remove lower starter mounting bolt.

2.) Obtain replacement bolt (135mm long x 1.5 Thread pitch)

3.) Disconnect both cables at the battery.

4.) Attach stock Positive cable to replaced lower starter mounting bolt and negative battery terminal. Remove section that goes to the fusible links. Attach that to the frame near the battery.

5.) Use new positive battery cable to connect Positive battery terminal to the starter solemoid.

6.) Be sure battery terminals are cleaned and tight, coat lightly in grease.

7.) Enjoy easier starting, improved performance, and more available electrical power.

Why it works:
You now have a direct ground connection to the engine and starter. This improves current flow to the power hungry starter as well as the ignition system and charging system.

 

Don't you still need a ground to the chassis?

 

Sure do!

 

I'll pass on the schematics--pele did a much better job explaining the idea than moi---thanks, pele! Lng live gerotor fuel pumps!:p

 

No problem. I just reorganized what you said and put some numbers in for order. I really would never have thought of that. I had to put extra grounds in a mid 80's BMW I was working on one time and made a huge monstrosity out of it. Wire from the alternator bracket to the valve cover, to the chasis, to the battery. Ugly, but functional. Revved much better, got better fuel economy, and the lights never flickered any more. (Upgraded stereo, pathetic alternator.)

What prompted the comment about gerotor fuel pumps?

 

Just havin' fun...that was a long thread when we were running down the varius pump styles and it brought in a lot of knowledgeable engineer types that are out there in this forum.