I have two questions.
1) I know it's been talked about before but I stripped out a screw on the front of the rack, what's the best way to get it out or a good suggestion. I've tried vise grips but there's not too much room, and I've tried a combination of pliers to no avail....
2) I have two of the three screws out on the back side and now I can't get to the one on the top in the back do I have to disconnect that coolant like or is there an easier way?

Help me out with any suggestions. I think if I remove that coolant line I can get it I'm more stumped on the how to get the stripped screw out. Luckily for me its the one in plain sight. thanks

 

You only need to remove two screws on the back...as for the stripped screws, grab a dremel with a heavy duty grinding disk, put on some safety goggles and grind those ***** down...from there you should be able to take a drill and drill out the remainder of the screw...

Thank God you didn't strip the back ones...those would have been a bitatch to get at...

Anyway...here's a photo of the rack screws you need to get out...(the top left arrow is actually pointing at the screw in behind the front one)

 

try some vise grips.

 

Sears sells some backouts that work nicely. Otherwise get out your drill and start drilling away.

 

i did the same thing, and purchased the VERY small NEEDLE NOSE vise grips, no room to use the large ones.....clamp on it really hard and turn it enough to break it loose...then when you put it back together, use these:

 

Thanks guys it just so happens the one I stripped out is the top left one in the first picture posted and the one I cant get at is the top right one in the picture. I tried very small vise grips but it didn't work but I'll look for some even smaller ones somewhere. As for the one on back I can't get it's cause the fuel line is in the way. I'll try the vise grips on that as well. Oh well thanks again

 

I didn't even screw mine back together...after the hastle of getting it out I figured I wanted to make it easy if I ever had to take it out again (For replacing FPD, injectors, Broken PR Solenoid)...Plus the nuts from the coil rack that screw down on top of the solenoid rack keeps it pretty damn snug...My 00.02¢ ...Whoever disagrees, Screw it! (Screw it, get it? never mind)

 

yeah so question when you took yours out the first time did you remove the fuel line to get to the top screw in the back or did you just use vise grips?

 

You know, I was just typing out a whole bunch of stuff that you need...and just like a MF I press submit and loose everything...couldn't even hit the back button...anyway to answer your original question

No, had no issues with the fule line...I just appied lots of downward pressure on the screw head with a ratchet screwdriver and they broke loose...then I unbolted it from the coil rack (driver's side of the solenoid rack) then wiggled it a bunch, then tadaaaaa! out it came...Be careful pulling it out not to break off any of the solenoid nipples...they are about $70 new or you can pic them up off the forum for about $35 a piece. Anyway, good luck.

 

Ok thanks, I'll have to figure something out cause the fuel line is in my way. I can't go over the top of it now under to get at the screw with a bit. Anyway I'll have to figure something else out. as for the front one I'm going to look for some other vise grips and if that doesn't work it's time to bust out a dremel and drill and probably a file.
-Nic

 

ok went to the hardware store over lunch and asked for some back outs.... the guy looked at me like I was crazy either that or he/I are dumb as hell, so do they possibly have another name or was the guy just a moron?

 

Screw extractors.

 

thanks Rated R1

 

Another thing to take into mind when you get into the belly of the beast is that you are going to see two clear plastic lines rinning across the top of the engine infront of the solenoid rack...those are the oil return lines...Pretty frail looking things if you ask me...Personally I think they should have been made out of a little more durable material...Try not to break these as I hear it's a PITA to replace them...

 

thanks I'll keep that in mind... went back to the hardware store this time the guy knew what i was talkin about so thanks again

 

Well my luck would have it that the back out didn't work it didn't catch correctly after I ground the screw down as flat as possible, so it looks like I'm just going to have to take the drill and dremel to it to drill the screw out. That's life. On a side note though my other parts are in and since I have the car torn apart already I might as well start the installs.

 

Note on installs...If you got a bunch of performance parts I would wait to put them on until you have the hose job done...you want to make sure that the job was done correctly before moving on...if you have all the parts installed and you have a problem there is no way to troubleshoot your probelm...If I were you I would get the hose job done and verify that you are getting a solid boost pattern...then from there add one mod at a time and test..

good luck

 

Try use this Milwaukee tools.
Sorry for the big photos
http://www.berudu.com/rx-7/Photos/20...e/DSCN2382.JPG

 

again apneablue thanks for the input right after I posted that I was kinda like hmmm that would be a stupid idea.... anyway that's what I'll do finish the hose job and put her back together then go from there.

 

I just want to thank all you guys for your help again. Finally last night I was able to get the last screw out that I needed to get. I was able to pull the solenoid rack without breaking anything in the process. Thanks guys!!

 

When reattaching the solenoid rack do you think it would be okay if I just zip tie the whole think back on instead of using those pain in the butt screws?

Also I was wonder the solenoid on the very rear of the rack closest to the fire wall.. on the right side of it has vac line attached do it does this vac line lead somewhere behind the lower intake mainfold close to the firewall?

 

I didn't even screw mine back in...I just used the nuts that were on top to bolt it back down and then the coil rack also attaches to it...I didn't see where it would be necessary to replace those four PIA screws that were so hard to get out anyway...So yeah, zip tie away dude!

As for you hose prob...You may want to see if you can trace the hose with this diagram...I have a hard time picturing which one you are talking about.