setzep

Speaking of lines and such.... What size orifice did you use to restrict the oil feed line going to the turbo? I read that you should use a 1.8-2mm orifice. I drilled and taped my banjo bolt that goes into the turbo to allow a 1/16th pipe plug to screw inside of it. Then I drilled out a couple 1/16th pipe plugs (one with a .070" hole and the other .081"). I put the .081 in there and once I get her going I'll see if it smokes at all. If it doesn't smoke I'll up the size of the orifice if it does smoke I'll put the .070" in there. I wanted to do it this way so I could "tune" the oil supply to my turbo. I'm just curious to what crispeed told you to do? Here is a pic of the line and banjo bolts that I made up for the feed.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

-4AN line, with two 90 degree bends, If I need to restrict it any more, I will just kink the line, or put a -3AN reducer on the Turbo side.

MarkPerez

Whats the total dollors spent so far for the braided hose.?? fittings, ??? don't tell me,, i already know, man.
*******-a DF,, done some researching,,huh,,. well done.

AJC13B

**** that man, I wish my **** looked half as good as that!

Mine is functional....thats my story and I'm sticking to it

eddierotary

iTrader: (7)

what a piece of art you have there, directfreak. i wish i have the money to do my project look something like yours. and thanks for showing those photos, you gave me a great idea for the oil fee line, what is the size of yours?

MarkPerez

Any of us can do the same. It all boils down to money.
hey DF,,you rich ?? lott-o winner ?? lots of money there.
kramer is going to be a 'SHOW' car ?? or something ??
wait,,, i remember, you always wanted a turbo FB..
I agree steve, inspired us all , with the wheel stands,
but ****,,man your going all the way,,now arn't ya.

setzep

LOL, kink the line...good one hmm... -3 might just be enough to restrict the line.
What is that going into the turbo? 1/4" pipe? If so you could easily do what I did if you wanted to "tune" your oil supply. It was pretty simple, use a 1/4" drill on the pipe side of your blue fitting and then tap it 1/16" pipe. You can get 1/16"socket head pipe plugs at a harware store for like .0005 cents. All you would need is a set of small drill bits. But who knows, maybe your turbo can handle the higher oil flow.

Anyways...looking good.

oh yeah, your fuel filters. I saw that you had a 10 micron one before the filter. What do you have after the filter?? Should be a larger mesh/micron rating before the filter to keep the "nuts and bolts" from going through the pump then the finer filter after the pump to keep the injectors from cloging. You don't want a super fine filter before the pump because it can cavitate.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the kind words. Eddie, you have a GSL-Se engine. You will need to get the oil (for the turbo) from the Racing Beat Block under the oil filter.

The part is this one:


You'll just need to use one of the 2 outputs to make a feed line to the turbo.

I am not rich, but I wish I was. In the Getting to know you thread, I explain my background in more detail. I am lucky enough to make a decent living, though I have several sources of income. No kids to drain resources for the moment either. Experience, age, and some good old fashioned Blessings have much to do with it. As I tell people in my field, I don't get paid for what I do, - I get paid for what I know.

I am not building a drag car, as that gives alot of punishment to the whole car in general. I want a "great overall" kind of car. My mindset is that it will be able to compete in track SCCA style events, yet have all the luxuries and reliabilities of a daily driver. Obviously, the car isn't my daily driver, but that's my reliability goal.

Show car? Naw... too much work. But there's nothing wrong with a nice ride.

However, If It can run in the 11's on drag slicks, I will be happy. Putting slicks on the car will not be an option until the Ford 8.8 is in place. (who knows when) I also don't want to be embarrased by any ol' V8 or modified import if the urge strikes me.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

No, it's a -4AN line, within an insulated sleeve for the heat.

Thanks.

That's how I have it set. I might have the wording mixed up. The larger steel mesh one is before the pump. The paper element filter is after the pump, before the Fuel injectors.

S2-13BT

DF, that is looking friggin awesome. The amount of work you're putting in to the car is nothing short of astounding.

When you finish you're abviously gonna have an absolute weapon. Well done.

My turbo 1st gen is currently off the road for mods and maintenance. Reading this post and following your build for awhile now, has convinced me to put alot of effort into the little things I do to my car.

Thanks, and keep up the good work.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

The same way here. Since I started seeing some of these extremely nice cars going on, its made me think morea bout what Im doing. I never really was one for doing somehing half assed, but now I just sit and think about what I have, my future plans, etc. Then, I try and make what I do have look good . I dunno, DirectFreak really is a role model for me . He has my dream car (not just the setup) because its an -SE, its got the suspension, its got the engine, driveline, fuel system, EVERYTHING that I would want, the way I would want it, and its DONE RIGHT. Everything I see that he has done has been perfect and clean. Im a perfectionist, and I cant stand to work on stuff when I dont have th right tools or supplies. Like wiring stuff in...OMG, I hate it. I can never get crimps to look good, or figure out where to NEATLY run wires, or this that and the other thing, I just HATE it because Im too much of a perfectionist...But DF has it all dont NICELY and NEATLY. I LOVE it...Nice job Alex.

~T.J.

JEC-31

DF your planning, attention to detail, and workmanship is great. Cool little things like heat-wrapping your turbo oil lines, that's sweet.

And thank you for the awesome detailed how-to style post, great reading and highly educational.

The only thing I can think of is you might want to fab a little rock shield for your fuel pump, it looks mighty vulnerable in those pics. And don't go near speed bumps!

Can't wait for your "It's Alive!!" post come January!

- Josh

p.s. The 84/85 12a tanks might be the same as the -SE tanks. Come springtime, when I can work in the garage without a lit heater, I'll open up my scavenged 85 12a tank and have a look.

zookeeper

Freaking AWESOME! or should I say "DIRECTFREAKing AWESOME!"!

Well thought out and planned with fantastic attention to detail.

Just a thought - I have a big truck, I get to My Mammy several times a year. Now... wouldn't that car be much better off up here in West Texas where the humidity, fungus, and black mold won't get at it? Just a thought...

damon

no the 84-85 tank is the same as shown in his tank differences thread it does not have a baffel just a flow thru net to keep out the large debris

peace

abeomid

Good timing. I need to do my fuel system in next couple of weeks to have the car ready.

Looking good. I already have my widebody here

luiml73

iTrader: (1)

That VIN number looks familiar. "Dude That's my Car" LOL

82streetracer

iTrader: (1)

you could save some money by running rubber line from the pickup to a cheap filter, then to the pump and then nice aeroquip lines and a good filter from there.

WanKeL FD RX-7

iTrader: (7)

it looks awesome keep up the good work man, very nice setup

Max

setzep

I know yours is a -4. I was just pondering if putting a -3 fitting before the turbo could act as a orifice like you mentioned.

setzep

Doing it that way will risk trashing the pump unless you had one hellofa large internal area filter. You don't want to have any restriction on the suction side of the pump. In all reality he might not have even needed to have a strainer before the pump because there is one inside the tank but he may have taken that one off.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

OOps, Sorry. Yes, you can definately to that. Some Turbo Kits for Honda's, Mitsubishis's etc. specifically state to use a -3AN fitting as a reducer before the Turbo.

Yep. Technically, if you power levels are reasonable (275 or less), you could just use the stock lines all the way to the front. All you would need to do is get a new pump and RRFPR.

As I said in the beginning, there are hundreds of different ways to do this. I have too much invested so far worry about fuel. Lack of fuel under boost makes engines go "pop".

dcee

Very nice work. Nice and neat, the way I like it. Who made the turbo manifold for you?

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Danny, The Turbo Manifold was made by a local guy who does them all day long. He can make one for whatever application you need.

His information is in my Turbo Manifold Thread

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

So whats the next steps then, Alex?

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

If you mean after that...

Tuning, & Debugging (a while)
Putting the 2nd Gen Fuse Panel in permanently
4 Point Cage
Finish the Stereo system
Finish the Power Locks
Put the Silver faced Gauges in
Finish the Alarm
Finish the CF-Trim that I haven't put in yet.
Re-trim the interior in grey & black microfiber. (Alcantra style)
But the Widebody on it
Paint it
Put some nice wheels and tires
- Break some stuff -
Put a Ford 8.8 rear end in,
Go Torment some V8's and Porsche's.