apneablue

Ok, tell me I am going to be ok!!!!!

...I knew the day where I would have to do it would come, I was just delaying it...On the way to work I realized I was only getting 6lbs of boost on the primary and then I would hear a loud wooooshing sound...I figured it was teh check valve I replaced but it wasn't so then that's when I decided to take the plunge and do the hose job...well, I am in the midts of it and can't say that I am too excited

I started to rip things apart and have off the intakes, the elbow thing, O2pump, alternator, and manifold (was a bitch!)...

So I was trying to be as careful as I could because the hoses were so brittle that the slightest turn or twist would break then...

here are some things I have broken so far...

two solenoid valves:Wastegate control and turbo precontrol...the little plastic nipples just came off without any pressure....also the nipple on the double throttle broke off really easily...makes me kinda leary to touch the rest...

My hoses from the RX7store.net will be here tuesday or wednesday next week so I thought I would go ahead and prep everything..

Do I just go get these things from the dealer or is there somewhere else to get them?

thanks.

David

Toadman

Apnea, it was most likely your $40 boost coupler that split if it's "whooshing". It's common and noisy as hell when it cracks. Other leaks make less noise or maybe an underhood whistle. Did you ask here on the forum before you dove into the rat's nest and UIM?

JONSKI

Get yourself some straight edge razors and a hobby knife. If the hose does not come off by itself, then you will break platic nipples if you try to twist them off. You need to cut them off.

OneBadRx7

apnea,

if you need another set of wastegate and precontrol solenoids I have them in perfect shape with no broken nipples. The dealership will charge you in excess of $150 I believe but I will sell you mine for $70 shipped, let me know, later man. Also check the coupler mentioned above, I would guaratee its either that or a split in one of the rubber intercooler pipes, otherwise the leak sound wouldnt be so noticeable, good luck and get back to me if interested,

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

The solinoids are gonna run you about $75 each. Make sure you slice and twist the hoses off. You don't have to completely cut them off. Just make a straight slice along the nipple then twist the hose. You'll feel them break loose.

Good luck on the rest.

apneablue

I broke both of these plus the double throttle control solenoid valve...

So is it recommended to take the whole solenoid rack out or just do it with it installed?

I have to admit that this is kinda fun but I am still freaked out about it...I am going to polish the manifold while I have it off...

OneBadRX7: I am interested...but are these brittle like mine are...I mean I really didn't apply any pressure and they broke like, ahhhhh, easy!... But if they are in good shape I will take them...

Also on the lookout for the double throttle control solenoid valve....I am looking at the big coloured diagram of the boost hoses and it's letter "G"

Do you think I should take the Solenoid Rack out? Is teh boost hose diagram good enough to go from that only or should I leave it in and replace one at a time?

thanks again..

OneBadRx7

Mine are not brittle like yours were, very good shape actually. I also have my double throttle disabled, let me take a look around and see if I still have the parts you need. In the mean time drop me an email at OneQuickRx7@hotmail so we can discuss payment options, thanks,

Steve

93TTRX7

I took off my piping because I had similar symptoms...it was that damned coupler. Had a slight tear in it right near the clamp

dubulup

I would have replaced one hose at a time...you know how confusing it is going to be putting them back on?

apneablue

About to take the solenoid rack out now...something that I have noticed is that looking at the hoses there doesn't seem to be 60 hoses there...

if I am looking at the big coloured hose diagram, are these all the hoses that I need to replace or are there more of them?

thanks again...

Steve, I PMed you

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

Thats pretty much it.

apneablue

Hey Guys, where is this hose going and do I have to remove the ACV to get to it?....

there is one bitch of a bolt right underneath the ACV...I think once I get that one then I am ready to start with the new hoses...

Solenoid rack out and everything...

apneablue

And while I am under here someone was talking about the Fuel Pulsation Dampner...where is it, what does it do and should I replace it since I am inside the beast?

And I don't feel like searching im my state stress..

Thanks again.

JONSKI

That hose from solenoid (A) goes to the diagonal nipple on the bottom and inside of the LIM. Here's a pic.



Here's another potentially helpful thread:
[url]https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=118463[/img]

apneablue

Thought I would share these...Now that I have the engine torn apart and waiting for the hoses I thought I would post some photos of the polished mainfold...





All left to do now is wait on the hoses and to find someone with a double throttle control solenoid...

Steve, coming up with a pic of the solenoid rack with the double throttle solenoid that's broken..

JONSKI

You can eliminate the DT (Double Throttle), if you don't want to wait for/buy a DT solenoid. Just remember that after you remove it, nothing will prevent you from boosting while your engine is cold, so keep it under 3,000rpm.

apneablue

Jonski, sounds good...care to elaborate a bit or point me in the right direction....If I am doing this should I go ahead and clip the butterflies you think?...

I'm tired...this polishing thing is sooooo time consuming...think I have been at it for a sold 4 hours and probably have that much more before I am done

JONSKI

Here's how I did it:
I drilled out the screws and yanked the butterflies out of the DT. Then I pulled out the rod that held the butterflies. I used a block-off plate to cover the hole that was left where the rod was. I then capped off the top left nipple on the alternator side of the UIM (it has a brown hose in the colored diagram). I put the DT solenoid (G) back on it's electrical connector with no vacuum hoses attached to it, but you can also use a 330Ohm 1/2 Watt resistor if your solenoid is electrically damaged and causing a check engine light. If I remember correctly, the DT solenoid has a green electrical connector.

That's it! Just remember that this is a permanent mod before you decide to do it.

JONSKI

Here's my UIM without the DT.

DRAG0NEER

just a little off the topic but does anyone know if it's the wastegate solenoid or the precontrol solenoid that should be connected to the plug with the white dot???

BTW, did you take just take the rack out or the whole assembly? You should probably change the FPD while you're at it. To access it you'll need to remove the whole assembly (5 fuel hoses and 3 bolts). Be very careful with the OMP oil lines while you're replacing it.

apneablue

Jonski,
I am going to go ahead and do the butterfly removal....I am trying to picture what the block off plate is like...aren't you just trying to block the little holes that the shaft was in? how does that work...

DRAGONEER: I just took the rack out with all the hoses...how do I know if the FPD needs to be replaced or not...really don't want to incur any more costs than I have to...in the last 5 months I have spent 5.5k...trying to change the money spending habbit a bit...

JONSKI

I don't have a pic of the BOP (Block-Off Plate) installed, but here is a pic of what needs to be blocked off. [edit]Only block off the double throttle.[/edit]



About the FPD. If it has never been replaced, then I would replace it, because it will eventually leak and it's a bitch to get to. The part costed me $97 from Mazdaformance.com (the rightmost ad at the top of this page).


This thread has some helpful info, too:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=101749

apneablue

Jonski,
I didn't want to sound like a complete idiot and ask "where's the FPD?" so I searched and found it...just want to make sure it's what I think it is...

is it the little black flying saucer thing that is close to one of the nipples coming off the block?

....if yes, then it's pretty damn easy for me to get to it...the thing that it is connected to (I circled it in red) I had to rempve that to get to the hose that I have the red arrow pointing to...

so if I replace the FPD all I have to do is detach it form the hose and then uncrew the two screws that have it attached to the thing (what is it?) I have circled in red? right? or is it more involved than that?

JONSKI

Hey, that's Mindphrame's engine! He's the one who helped me replace FPD and got me started on the hose job.


Yes, the FPD is the "flying saucer" with a tube on the bottom. Just screw in the new FPD (careful not to strip the screws, and get both screws started before tightening either one), and put the fuel hose and clamps back on it, and you are done with the FPD.

The thing you have circled in red is the primary injector housings. I didn't remove it to get to the oil injector. Instead, I used these needle-nose pliers that are like a foot long and it has a 30º bend at the nose to get the vacuum hose on the oil injector. These pliers are EXTREMELY HANDY. I wish I had a picture of it. You should not be without this tool. If you are, then go to your hardware store as soon as possible and ask them if they have one.


... and don't worry about sounding like an idiot because of asking questions. Better to be safe than sorry. Everyone has been in your position in one way or another before, but some of us are in denial.

apneablue

JONSKI, you rock man! I am off to buy my plyers, polishing wheels, rouge, and ordering the FPD today...I guess it will be the weekend before I fire up this project again...

I am sure this thread will be bumped a few more times before this whole things is over....