okay to replace the FPD you kinda have to unbolt the primary injectors and the fuel hose connected to the FPD so you can move the whole thing under the wire harnesses and up so you can unscrew the thing. pretty easy

 

Jonski,
Quick question...I just drilled out the butterflies with great difficulty...after all that drilling inside the manifold is pretty dusty with metal dust...how would you clean this...I don't think blowing it out with air will do it since inside has some kinda ligt film of oil that it's sticking to...what's the best way to clean it out?

thanks

 

I used a 120psi air compressor with a long air nozzle to blow out the debris. It did a pretty good job. If you don't have that, then it's time to get creative. I don't know what tools you have, so it's mostly your call. Maybe you can pull a small rag through each manifold port with a clothes hanger. If you get anything stuck in there, you might be able to suck it out with a vacuum cleaner.

 

David, I too used a powerful compressor, did pretty well. Also your solenoids will be dropped off tomorrow morning, thanks,

Steve

 

Just got my hosetechniques.com hoses today..Blue, a cool colour for a cool engine bay...anyway, not the reason for the post...

I was thinking about the whole block off plate thing to cover up the hole after removing the butterfly shaft...can I use JBWeld in the hole, and do you recommend filling in the other holes that the shaft was in?

thanks again...can't wait to get to work..

 

David, you dont have to fill the little holes that the shaft went through, what you can do for the big hole is get a nut and bolt. Check out www.rx7turboturbo.com and it will show you a pic of what to use, its the same thing I did, worked great. Oh and you will have to look around a little on the site, its under Rob R.'s archived website,

Steve

 

Steve,
Just so you know, I got the solenoids today...thanks...

I also have another question...on the big hose diagram I am trying to differentiate between the check valves...one type is small and is white and green, the other is a bit larger and is black and green...

I am alsmost certain that I am not going to be able to tell which one goes where on the diagram come assembly day...is there a better diagram that shows which one of the check valves are white and green and which one is black and green? Ok, to make it easy I am going to lable the diagram with numbers by the check valves and someone can tell me what color those are...kool?

1 =?
2 =?
3 =?
4 =?
5 =?

And I was thinking of using JB Weld to fill the holes in the UIM...it would provide a really smothe finish on the inside and outside for that matter...do you think there are any downfalls if I do it this way?

 

If you are only removing the Double throttle, then you should only be filling/blocking-off one hole on the UIM. You do not need to fill the hole between the two top ports or the the small indentation on the side. I've never used JB Weld, but if it can hold up to 20psi and down to 30in/Hg, then go ahead and use it.

As for the check valves, I just guessed as to where they went. I'm hoping someone will chime in with their proper locations. BTW, my boost pattern was 10-4-7 before I did the hose job/simplification.

 

Jonski, JB weld is a two part thing kinda like epoxy and they use it to bond metals...like using it to patch broken engine blocks and such...I figure it should hold up to 20psi / 30 in/Hg

As for the simplification thing, I have seen a diagram with like most of the hoses are gone...what are the advantages to this other than less hoses?...and is there anything else other than just caping off the nipples (I said nipples ) that aren't used?

 

The simplification eliminates the ACV (Air Control Valve), EGR (Exhaust Gas Regulator) and DT (Double Throttle). It also renders the airpump useless, unless you directly connect it to the main cat with a one way air valve. It's just less stuff in your way, and less stuff that can malfunction. I recommend it to anyone with a midpipe and living in a free state (i.e. no emissions laws).

 

Sounds really tempting...do you have a link or anything that you can point me to so I can do some reading?

thanks again

 

http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...lification.htm

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...simplification

 

You know, just because after reading Rob's site I had these concerns...

I don't know now what some of those acronyms were, also realizing I had to make blockoff plates for some things I didn't know where they are,
- AWS
- PVC
- Fast Idle cam

- having to remove the O2 pump means finding a different belt and replacing my CAT.

-- Jonski, I noticed in one of your engine bay pics you are still running your O2 pump, did you leave it there or remove it completely?

I'm still not sure I don't want to do the simplification method it's just that right now I am comfortable with putting everything back minus the DT solenoid...

what do you think?

 

never mind, I see in your sig that you have it unplugged...

 

the 02 pump that is

 

I feel like I am talking to myself but that's ok

The ACV has three electrical connectors (I think) if this is totally removed do the electrical connectors just hang loose?

Looks to me that the only thing to make a block off plate for is the ACV (right?)

All the nipples left un-hosed are they capped or just the ones that are show in the simplification diagram?

 

AWS = Accelerated Warm-up System. This is what causes your engine to rev up to 3krpm on a cold start.
PVC = ???
PCV = Positive Crank-case Ventilation. I think this is emissions crap. I THINK Rob was talking about that hose that goes from the oil filler neck to the UIM. I'm not too sure about this one, though.
fast idle cam = holds your throttle open a little bit, until you coolant temperature rises. It's like a thermostat for your throttle.

Having the air pump unplugged means that it's electrical connector has unplugged. The electrical connector engages the air pump's magnetic clutch, which causes it to pump air to the ACV. The air pump is engaged at 3krpm or less.

Yes, be sure to cap off any unused nipples.

If I were you, I would just put everything back, except for the DT.

 

Jonski & OneBad7, although I am not done I just want to say thanks for helping out so much...here's a pic of where I am so far...tomorrow I will be in the engine bay installing the rack and rest of the hoses...my UIM, TB, Thermostat Housing, & AST are all with TTT being polished for the next week...I should be able to get a lot done tomorrow though...



Used about 3 hours and polished my Apexi Intakes

 

Hey David, good luck with everything. When its all back together let us know if you have any other questions, sometimes the little things are overlooked which causes the car to run like crap, hopefully that wont happen though. I wanna see pics of the finished product though!!

Steve

 

Steve, I just went out and bought the needle valves to replace the pills in the lines...most of the hoses are done now and just the rack to be installed and hooked up...definately will take pics...

question about the home depot boost controler...to be honest I really don't know why I am installing them since I have the PFC but I am going to anyway...what do you think?...

anyway,

laterz...

 

when i did mine i used a cigarette lighter and heated each hose that connected to a solenoid for a few seconds then twisted it right off. watch when you try to remove the vacuum hoses from the hard lines because if they pop off fast you can rip a solenoid nozzle off since the hoses are probably hard and will make the nozzle bend and break, i used wire cutters to cut the hose which left a small peice on the hard line and then cut that off.

 

Thought I would share these...so far I have taken redone everything on the rats nest and and insterted it into it's (hard to reach) spot...then used the colored vac hose diagram and redid everything in the engine bay that wasn't on the solenoid rack...I also installed the manual boost controler (Boost & Prespool) just beacause ...then I used the hose diagram that I had blown up to 3ft x 2ft to trace each hose that was connected at each end to make sure that they were going where they were supposed to...if each hose was cable tied and in the right spot I would black-out that line...so far all is left to connect is to the UIM...

getting kinda antzy to see if it going to start again So these are the things I have done so far..

- TTT polishing: AST, UIM, TB, WP Housing-
- Changed Plugs to NGK Platinum & 10mm Magnecore wires.
- Manual Boost controler
- Took out butterfiles in UIM for the double throttle.

Can't think of anything else...here's some photos of my engine bay as I just left it..

 

Any updates?

 

Yes...I am waiting on my UIM, TB, WP Housing, and AST to come back from TTT either tomorrow or Monday...

So far I have gone as far with every hose as I can without the UIM and TB...every hose that is loose now connects to the UIM and the pressure chamber...

One thing I am going to need help with is probably hooking things back up to the throttle boby and UIM...I think I am not seeing the whole picture without them infront of me...

there is one question I have right now...

there is a sensor that connects to the gas filter...(see upper right corner of hose diagram on previous page) I am not sure what the filter looks like but can only guess...does it look kinda like a check valve but black? I only have one of these mixed in with my pile of check valves so I am asuming that's the only thing it could be...and is it ok to use silicone hose to replace the hose it was connected to if there is GAS (fuel?) passing through it?...

Damn it! I hate it when that happens...our shipping manager just came in and said "we have a big heavy box for you bak there!" I thought it was the stuff from TTT...guess not

Providing I get the parts tomorrow (friday) I will be working on it all day Sunday and hopefully will finish then so you guys can help me diagonse all the problems I am going to have

 

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=94800
It keeps oil and stuff from ruining your MAP sensor. So I think by "gas" they mean "air".