Well, ive got an old Twin Turbo set up and all the piping minus the Intercooler, and all the wiring and the ECU from a FD. Is it possible to set this system up on the FC's or would the over all work be hard to do?

 

read the faq 1st.
2nd n/a FI is not recommended.

 

If it clears the manifold, you can run a haltech and have it control the sequential turbo system, not exactly the same way as a stock system would work but yes it's been done. Of course you'll need all of the other stuff related to having a turbo set up as well.

Read the 2nd gen faq and archive and read and learn as much as you can, use the search function, there is alot for you to learn.

Let me know if you get that to work, i think that would be very interesting to see.

 

You could not be more wrong, sorry. Don't post things as fact that you are unsure of - I am regarding the Haltech comment in particular. It is IMPOSSIBLE FOR ANY HALTECH TODAY TO CONTROL THE SEQUENTIAL TWIN TURBO SYSTEM AS IT WAS INTENDED. These guys that are, they are either running them in parrellel which is retared, or they are running them improperly.

1st - don't bother forcing air into an N/A - search that, not going to bother
2nd - I DOUBT as in I am 99.9999999999% the turbo's won't clear the LIM of an 13B or a 13BT
3rd - A Haltech e6k cannot control them sequentially. The ONLY trully programably ecu available today that can control them is the Motec M800. That little unit runs abour $4300 for the box, $625 for the harness, $900 for the Lamba option before you even start buying sensors. Got over $6,000 for an ECU?
4th - Don't mention the APexi unit becuase your mounting them on a different motor and you'd have to completely rewire everything & get an FD harness & all the solenoids, & the pressure chamber and the vac chamber and know how to read wiring/vacuum/pressure schematics.
5th - Mazda runs them open loop so you change one thing and all is wrong, boost patterns, transitions, and there is NO way to change that with the APEXI unit which is why you need to spend the $6000 on a Motec & probably pay Motec to do all the enginneering for you if you are asking these question & I'm not about to give up my work for free.
6th - Can you tune or do you know someone that does? Also, the engineering piece that goes into the Motec software as well.

Finally - how do I know all of this? I am twin turbocharging my FC but doing it in a way that most would not thing of

Hitokiri - best bet is to drop in an ENTIRE 13B-REW and use the Apexi unit and run a front mount. But you need some skills to do that as well. You need to be able to weld, you need to be able to wire, you need to be able to do plumbing. There are mounts out there to drop the REW into the FC, but I don't like them. To me they put too much of an off-center load on the motor mounts.

Where are you in CT? If you are dead serious about this and have about $10,000 to spend I can help you out. PM me if interested.

mmmm, actually it would be closer to $15,000 now that I'm thinking about it.

 

The short answer is that it won't fit...

The slightly longer answer is that if you make a spacer to move the exhaust manifold out about 2.5", then it should just clear the NA lower intake if you shave off all the emissions stuff and port actuators. You then have to deal with making a downpipe in the VERY limited space between the turbo assembly and shock tower/frame.

It is a hell of a lot easier to just use an appropriately sized single turbo, since you aren't going to make the sequential turbos work in anything but a parallel configuration anyway.

Also, be sure to read the FAQ and check the Archives before you post.

 

OH
MY
GAWD
*sigh*


-Ted

 

I respectfully dissagree Of course I can't prove it......... yet

I do agree 125% thought that an appropriately sized single would be diisqustingly easier than adapting the twins

 

btw - Downpipe on the REW twins in an FC with no spacer.



I really doubt they would fit on a 13B with the N/A LIM and a spacer on the exhaust without hacking the frame-rails to hell or fabbing some type of horrible looking and flowing downpipe

 

I know what you mean. I have come to the realization that ppl just like to complicate their lives. I've been into RX7s since early 2000 and I've never, ever, EVER considered doing half the crap these noobs are asking about. That's even AFTER I met a guy who made a custom manifold in order to use FD twins on his Vert. why would anyone buy an 80s car and then try to add mid 90's electronics and parts?? Why don't ppl just wait a little longer and buy the 90's car?????????

 

Becuase maybe we love our 80's cars, have had them 10 years, spent 2 years and ~$4,000 in paint and body work recreating the lines and cleaness with our own hands and enjoy fabricating, making things work, and love the feeling knowing your rolling down the road in something that closeminded people (not you) think are a waste of time. Even more appealing is staring @ those nay-sayers in your rear-view. I spend more time working on my car than driving it. It's a hobby for me. I love the CAR, and want more power, more response, & I've had a hard-on for those twins since I drove a lightly modded FD a few after I got my FC.

To each thier own. Frankly I don't understand the need to post *sigh* for anyother reason than to increase a post count. It can be done and that is the bottom line. Is his route the best way, hells no, it's actually the worst way. I read all these posts in all these different engine swap releated threads that contain nothing but flaming becuase someone wants to do something different. Dude has ALOT of learning to do, a few days behind screen searching, but to ask about a noob filter or post *sigh* is childish.

My offer still stands, if you want to know what I consider the best way to do it is, PM me and I'll give you some ideas. I'm doing it right now and expect to be on the Engine dyno in a month or two.

 

THEN HOW ABOUT HAVING THE OP DO THE APPROPRIATE AMOUNT OF RESEARCH. Look at both FC and FD FSMs and find out what need to be replaced, modified or deleted to make everything work AND YOU(speaking generally and not targetting anyone in particular) CAN SEARCH TO SEE IF ANYONE ELSE HAS DONE THE SAME WORK!!!!. ONCE YOU FIND OUT WHAT YOU NEED TO DO the YOU can begin your project. IF YOU run into a problem THEN post here and ask:

"I have such and such problem because the FD FSM says this and the FC FSM says THIS and I don't get it/ can't get it to work.

Don't ask dumbassed questions like "CAN IT BE DONE???" or "IS IT HARD??" WITHOUT ACTUALLY DOING ANY RESEARCH! You can call me a hater all you want but in reality it's not the PROJECT I'm hating on, it the actual lack of initiative to find your own answers that I'm irritated by.


Edit: if you love your 80's car then you love them for what they are right?

 

I agree 100%. I did it. I asked very specific questions to very knowledgeable people who would eventually PROFIT from this project. Lobbed a few calls into Motec for example, next one week from tomorrow they will recieve a large check from me so asking THEM questions is justifiable becuase they have the knowledge about thier own produt. I am agreeing with you that there is an ambarrassing about of research that he should've done before posting his question. But in all reality he probably posted his question, kept the screen open, browsed a few other sites and kept refreshing his very first post only to find he had been flamed. For that I feel bad for for the guy which is why I offered some ideas. I am certainly not going to spend what would probably amount to 10 hours of typing and linking **** to him when I had to do it twice already. He needs to understand how they work before he can even think of trying to bolt them on.

I'm not calling you a hater. I feel kinda bad for the guy becuase it was his first post - or so we assume, and he was tooled. But you're right, he has more research than he knows what to do right now & I'm telling him that I have solved every problem that has been put in my way. In THEORY, there is no reason for this NOT to work and that is the consenus of a handfull of people that are considered tops in thier respective field. My offer stands to spend a few minutes to point him in the right direction, answer SPECIFIC questions, but I'm not doing a step by step write up because I doubt anyone else will bother with a swap like this.

& I love the car, but it can be improved upon. My next project (& my wife has expressed alot of interest in this new one) is a 1968 Dodge Charger. The SEXIEST car ever made IMHO. I've been lusting after that beast for 10 years now... literally.... I told her years ago when I started all the body work on the Mazda that it was practice for the Charger and the 7 came out cherry! Regardless, it can be made better. Am I going to drop a 40 y.o. 318 2 bbl back in there? F@CK NO! She'll more than likely get a new 6.1 crate Hemi backed by a T-56. I've even toyed with dropping the Viper V-10 in there but more than a few people have done that swap now so it's less appealing to me now. The interior will be better than the original as will the paint, suspension, drivetrain.... everything will be better than it was 40 years ago but the car is still the sexiest car I think that has ever been made.


EDIT: That pic size is annoying me & I apologize for it, however, I can't edit it. Can a mod please delete it for me and I will repost a resized?

 

Well, I mean we all know it can be done. But is it easy or straightforward? Not really. Any ECU with a few programmable outputs can do it if you get creative with the solenoid wiring and vacuum routing, but I don't think I've ever seen anyone bother (and I've not tried myself).

 

Not referencing any of the technical commentary, as I'd be the proverbial one legged man in an *** kicking contest. BUT, I will say I've always prefered the 2nd Gen body style... it has a cleaner, classic look to it... whereas the 3rd Gen is sooooooo Fast & Furious... To me, IMHO, etc, etc, blah blah...

 

it's classic 80's styling. I do not agree with your "3rd gens are too Fast and the Furious" comment ( i actually hated ALL of the movies even though the 3rd one has a SEXY sounding FD). You CANNOT tell me THIS is too riced out:

 

Not strait forward at all. The mest way (in my eyes) requires 5 programable outputs and 3 map inputs. I've said too much....

Most people wouldn't bother I agree. I had the time and the desire, still do. I've had a rager for those twins for the better part of 10 years now. I hope i'm not disapointed.

 

remember ANYTHING can be done with the right amount of money, time and ingenuity. I still love you titanium.

edit: man those pics turned out to be HUge.

 

I put stock twins on a S4 TII engine with a spacer.. I got stuck on the downpipe though. IMO there wasnt gonna be any way a downpipe would fit in that little tiny bit of space. :/

Titanium.. Is that a TII engine you put those twins on? If so how in the H*LL did you get em to fit without a spacer? custom exhaust manifold? Please post more pics

 

keep your negative opinions to yourself my friend, many who own naturally BEAUTIFUL FD's read that quote above would feel very offended and get pretty angry...

 

not a 13BT no, not telling either, no more pics till she's done. I want to be the first to do it I work, wife, two dogs, house on acre and the acre needs ALOT of work so my projects take wayyyy longer than they should. This one has been going on for ~15monts now. The cat was out of the bag on the other forum a while ago............

I agree, & I agree that he should learn way more before posting a question like that. love you too sweeite

 

well i am in the process of putting twin turbos my s4 n/a, using a custom s.s mani basically one turbo per rotor , a set a Garrett t3 50 trims. as for the engine management haven't gotten that far yet.

 

sounds like you need to make a WRITE-UP with plenty of pics and then put it in the second Gen Archives for FUTURE reference. How's it going so far?

 

Problem is it's not sequential and the cost for doing it that way would be just about double what an appropriately sized single turbo would be. It's a good idea though. I'd like to see pics though

 

well that got a lot of different answers. Not entire sure where to start..

First, for the engine, i have an entire 13B-RE from a JDM Cosmo JC, so i actually have two sets of Twin Turbo's one from my Single Turbo Converted FD and the other from the 13B-RE.

I had orginally bought the 13B-RE with the intention of rebuilding it, but when i broke it down i found that the rotors and housings were shot completely. I did notice in the break down that i was missing the triangular piece of the apex seals on one corner of each rotor and the cuts and crap on the housings and rotors look suspiciously like that piece, although how it would have gotten out is beyond me. Unfortunetly, i got screwed over with that block as it was garunteed "in running condition" but of course by the time i had the money for the rebuild kit and seal kit, the waruntee was gone and the engine turned out to be a gigantic paper weight, so im hoping to breathe some new life into it.

As for the swap itself, one of my friends has an N/A FC which hes looking to upgrade in anyway possible, and as i have basicly one full engine and parts from another along with his N/A 13B block we have a lot to work with, so we considered going this route, but i dont know much about it so i thought id search around and see what people had to say.

Basicly, our original plan, was to break his 13B block apart for its housings and rotors, provided they were in good condition and rebuild the 13B-RE with that and attempt to kind of piece together a "build a block" rotary engine more capable than his original N/A 13B.

So i guess, my question now is more leaning towards, is it possible to swap in a 13B-RE block since it will have all the piping and manifolds and such for the swap? I do have the ECU and wiring harness from the Cosmo and I can splice the harness together if thats needed.

I had heard from Rotorsports Racing in North Carolina that the 13B-RE was a common swap into the FC's but i dont know the extent of work needed for that.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...uential+turbos

Take that thread and put it in your *** then....

And yes you can put an RE in an FC, bonzai racing makes the mounts for it. You can use pieces from an NA but you can't use the irons. I would reccomend against using NA rotors though. I THINK the S5 TII rotors will work, but i'm not sure.