Where in CT are you? PM me.......

The turbos from the RE are probably a giant paperweight. It's very difficult to get gaskets for them or rebuild them. If you're missing a piece of Apex seal it proably took out one or both turbines. If I had my choice I would sport the FD twins....

What kind of life are you looking for? First question to ask yourself is what kind of goals are you looking for, how reliable, HP, daily driven or track queen, etc etc.... Then choose a turbo to suit.

There is an excellent thread I bookmarked written by Rotary Resurection I believe about the interchangability of housings etc. PM me and remind me as it's on my work machine. Not something I would rec though

I wouldn't use the housings or the rotors. I would find others.

The piping is pretty much useless. P/S & Air are an issue. The RE turbo's are pretty much useless as stated above. That makes the JC ECU just as useless when slapping on different turbos. I suppose if you wanted to run them parrelel you could use a TII ECU and harness but why? You are so limited and I dare say a single with a haltech, the haltech would cost about as much as the ecu, harness and all the other little piggy back things you need. Do it once, do it right, do it Motec.

FWIW I'll have a DAMN good idea what the Motec will cost as my motor is coming out Friday night to head on up to The Man on Saturday

I wouldn't say common, but it's being done. Short list
Block
rebuild
Tranny
rear
driveshaft
motor mounts
FMIC
piping
BOV
Fuel system
Standalone

It ain't cheap, people can do it for a lot less I'm sure. I wouldn't though....

Again, PM me if you want as I am going through it all right now

 

I can **** it all over your face

They didn't get it to work with just the standalone. Read a little more. They either needed a MBC to control the Pre-spool or they needed a SEPERATE boost controller to control the wastegate.

Again, the only ECU that I know of with enought in's and outs is the Motec M800. Not only that but the outs are ALL PWM. None of this dual stage crap. Even though it may have worked, it's not ideal from a adjustability controlability stand-point

 

Heaven forbid anyone buy a boost controller, like that's not something most people would buy anyway.

Also, a boost controller and an E8 is alot less expensive than whatever you're talking about.

Don't be upset because you payed 4x as much for it.

 

I doubt 4 times. & I'm not upset. The comparision between the Motec & the Haltch is laughable @ best.

The question was can a Haltech E6 control the twins sequentially. The answer is still "NO"

If the question was slightly different, the answer would be yes. I don't agree with using piggy back computers and relays & all the other things that are going on there. Every single one of them is a failure point. As if they don't have enough problems being reliable, lets complicate it with an add on boost controller and a whole bunch of electronic trickery. Why would I buy & have two different computers to break when I can do it properly with 1?

I'm sorry but there really is no comparision between the two compaines. Motec = $5000, E8 + BC = ~$2000 maybe? For what you get from the components, the software and especially the support, it's like the difference between going to a Maybach dealer and walking into a going-out-of-business sale @ you local Kia dealership. I called Haltech USA and homegirl there didn't know the answer to ANY question I had. The only answer was, "call Matt in AU." who I know is in the states now, regardless after an $80 phone call the answer that Haltech AU gave was still "NO" Whoever came up with that solution should apply for a Job with Haltech. It's a good solution, in MY EYES, it's not the best.

 

I never used the term riced out... I've always liked the 2nd Gen body style, as it has very similiar lines to that of the Porsche 944s, 928s, 924s, etc....

 

It basically can control them sequentially, the boost controller is just there to help, the solenoids are a part of the original sequential setup and every car has relays.

 

It can do it basically is not doing it wholly. PERIOD

The boost controller is not there to HELP.... the boost controller is there to pick up the slack for the Haltechs lack of adjustability and controlabilty. THe Haltech cannot do it without outside help. The question was, can the Haltch control the twins, the answer is NO

Just becuase every car has relays doesn't mean we should add a whole bunch more when we can avoid doing so. By the way, the solenoids are part of the reason for the twins lack of reliability. You can ask a few different 3rd gen guys if you'd like

Friend of mine & I thought about stuffing his old 460 from his circle track days into his wrecked Metro one night at the shop after a few beers. Mocked things up, started taking measurments, then the business got busy and he moved in with his gf..... Point?

Yes with the right amount of money ALMOST anything is possible. I want a turbine powered FC with no body modifications. Not gonna happen.

Point I'm making is that the twins are viable with the right about of research and proper planning, and a good amount of fabrication (& yes the cash, loads of it). Rolling it off by sounding like a teenage girl from LowngIeland is well, whatever. Same as the Renni thread. Do it, have fun, that's what this is about for some people. If it's your business and your shy about becuase it might eat into profits and time, that's a whole different story and those are more than acceptable reasons to not want to do a project. Personally I kinda like the idea of a Renni powered FC. I don't see the 6spd sitting properly which is I'm sure part of the allure.

 

You can do it with a haltech and a boost controller and 2 relays for a lot less than a motec.

That's still true.

 

Its probably not impossible to controll the twins with a haltech E11 or E8, exactly like they came from the factory. I think it can be done, but why do it like that when it can be done much simpler.

What has been done several times is controlling them in the simplified sequentiual mode and it only takes 2 outputs from the haltech to do it.

It could even be done with 2 simple rpm switches.

Here is the thread which explains how:

https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-forum-62/controlling-stock-sequential-twins-e8-547998/

and BTW the haltech E11 and E8 closed loop boost controll and boost by gear/rpm works really good. So no need for a seprate boost controller.

 

I guess you didn't read the entire thread, lol.

 

Yes that's still true. I still don't like the idea.

A few other truths though are that Motec has much better software, better support, better harnesses, doesn't have the inherient ignition signal problems, is alot more adjustable, alot more configurable, and has alot more options. Do some research on the Motec, I was amazed at the things that they offer. It really makes the Haltech look like a toy. And for something that I plan of having for years and years to come, work the numbers backwards and add up all the other money spent and it's a no-brainer. If you want traction control, boost vs gear, telemetry, alot of datalogging, way more inputs/outputs etc etc. THe thing is just obsene.

Another factor was I wanted to run the electric OMP, Motec can do that as well Haltech cannot do what I want my car to do.

(Yes I know the Haltech E11 can do the Electric OMP. It cannot do both)

Slo - In speaking with Haltech it was thought that it COULD be done, to their own admission it wasn't the best way. Haltech even felt that the CCV & CRV should be PWM, the CCV at a minimun. The Haltech cannot do that. Then throw on-to the fire I wanted the electric OMP and the answer was just a flat out "NO, we cannot help you." I did alot of research on the Motec, called them up and they said, yes, we can help you with room to spare

 

I'd rather run premix and save some money, I know people who DD RX-7s with haltechs without any issues. Even if it doesn't have the same features.

 

The E11 and E8 run the OMP just fine, or any stepper motor.

not trying to compare haltech to motec. If you are interested in spending that much take a look at the high end autotronic systems.

autotune is the ****.

 

well there is at least 1 generic PWM 3D map by load/rpm that could controll the CCV. There is also a wastgate map which is a also a 3D pwm load/rpm map.

thats in addition to closed loop boost controll.

so thats 2 pwm outputs for those functions.

How would this be better than the simplified setup with 2 relays. I am going to be doing this down the line I really want to know what you research has led you too not trying to argue.

 

The guy who I have faith in with the EMS isn't very familiar with the Autronic and has told me one horror story about them. Not to mention I feel a bit of an obligation to both Motec and thier dealer. I have taken alot of thier time & I wouldn't feel right about jumping ship now.

I mentioned that I know the Haltech will control the OMP, but it won't do the twins the way I want, and it certainly won't do both.

TehMonkay - I have a marine background, I hate premix, I refuse to it. To each thier own. Motec is my answer, not the answer for everyone.

 

I want one computer/ems to control everything. For this you need 3 PWM's (Wastegate/pre-control/ & CCV) The CRV - meh, maybe, nice to have the option. The Turbo contol, definately not.

 

The haltech E8 and E11 can controll one stepper motor, be it idle or OMP, thats in addition to all of the other PWM and digital outputs it has. The stepper motor controll is a dedicated output. If not using a stepper motor then it goes unused.

Something that takes a PWM output like a boost controll solenoid or a BAC is not a stepper motor.

There is no reason it can't do both.

 

this thread is doing exactly what a twin turbo install would do to me. Gives me a very big ******' headache. Why go through all that hassle if you could just do a single turbo setup with twice the power, twice the reliability and with almost as good spool up if you got a ball bearing turbo. Keep it simple stupid is my moto. To much going on just makes for to much that could brake. Keep it simple, go single, and be happy

but of course thats just me.

 

I'm allready doing wastgate controll, and have the BAC setup.

so I have 3 more PWM's and 2 more digital outputs. 2 of the PWM's have 3D controll maps by load/RPM. All of them can be digital outputs also.

So which ones should be PMW by map the Pre-controll and CCV

 

Because I live in CA and want the car to pass visual inspection when I get pulled over for know reason which happens frequently.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...9&d=1179268527

 

A single cannot spool anywhere near as quick as the twins. A single will also not have twice the power. The closest comparision that I found that was metioned again and again is a GT35R with a .84 hotside. ~375 RWHP @18 PSI and spool by ~3500 RPMS. The twins will make that power @ 14ish PSI and have about 12PSI @ ~2500 rpms. No comparision in my book. I also auto-x.

Slo - I don't remember, I did forget about the BAC though. This was about a year ago. All I remeber was the end result of 100+ minutes on the phone, an $80 bill, and the answer after talking with 3 different "Engineers" @ Haltech AU was "No."

 

There have been several software releases in the last year, I believe allot has changed since then.

Are you going withe the BNR stage 3's like me?

I'd really like to know how you plan to have the Motec controlling your turbo's because I'm pretty sure I can have the haltech do more or less the same thing.

 

I'll PM you

 

lol, I'm not exactly sure what your talking about but the gt35r and the 3540r has proven 400rwhp at 18psi and the 3540 around 500rwhp with more boost. I'm not really sure if the money that is put into going sequential twin warrants the somewhat quicker spool. I think you are mistaken as well, the 35r makes full boost around 3500rpm it doesn't begin spooling there.

ps. Also the stock twins are not very reliable at higher boost levels so even if you do make some good power with them you will be replacing them every 40k miles or so. Again the pros in this setup are over shadowed by the huge amounts of cons. The rotary is already a very rare setup compared to the amount of piston engines out there. Why do people get so caught up in "how original can I be?"


can't help it if you live in, quit possibly, the worst place ever and how does that pass visual inspection and a nice clean single setup doesn't? Heck some of the sigle turbo setups in third gens are smog legal. NOw I'm not too hip on smog so I really can't say anything cause I admitedly don't know a damn thing about them.


edit: oh it looks like you have a 13brew in your fc with the smog pump still there. I see exactly where you are comming from however you are doing something that is quite differant than titanium. I'm not ******* either one of you but maybe I'm to narrow minded to see the point of going sequential twins on anything other than a 13bre or 13brew ( you know, that motor and ecu that was designed for it ).

 

They may have proved it on a HBP or something but you are forgetting this is an auto-x/street car. I wouldn't consider a brap brap brap streetable although some do. Totally different arguement though.

BNR 3's (which I'll be running next year after I am sure all this will work) make 425 RWHP, dyno proven. That is more than I need in a 2400lb car. Who needs 500 RWHP in a auto-x car?? So the max HP thing.... That a moot point. & I know the GT35R makes boost before that, but does it make 12PSI ~2500 RPM? No it does not. The most important thing to look at is the torque curve. I could care less about 500 RWHP if my little N/A will whip it around a track becuase it has better power down low and a smoother torque curve. The Twins even if they make 350-375 in stock trim will have better torque and acceleration out of a tight corner and I dare say more NET power than some of those singles. If I blow the twins in a year, oh well, I plan on going BNR over the winter and those are good for what 19+ PSI?