zbrown

Hey guys, Ill start a thread so people can follow because i have had alot of questions concerning alot of things. I am working with a new shop named Boost Innovations out of Fargo ND. They are very capable and most of all they want to make the customer happy. They are a great bunch of guys

Website should be about done boostinnovations.com

Ill keep posting pics and information as i go along, but ill might aswell start now

The hope here is for a 600hp 13b rew powered FC via a garrett GT42 that will run 10's all day and possibly touch 9's..... and yet be a daily driven street car

Here is a quick list of things that are done or will be

Complete wire tuck + all OEM wire mess delete
Coils in car
13b rew build and install
custom radiator setup
Boost Innovation's SS tubular turbo manifold + dual tial 38's and 4" full exhaust
custom Aluminium oil pan
custom intake manifold
granny 3 link 8.8 rearend install
all stock gauges + switches gone.... autometer in place
plus a whole bunch more stuff

Ill cover and post pics of all this and we proceed...

Ill start off with a little turbo fun

Started off a new virgin Garrett GT4202.....102mm compressor not the 94mm



and happens when i have too much time.... the other turbo is my old PT67, not a tiny turbo either





I cut all the ugly tabs and markings off and polished the compressor cover, also cut the snout down flush with the inner intake, welded in a ring and and drilled some holes. I should have not drilled holes and deleted the anti-surge, but i want to hear it first i think ..... there is just enough to clamp a filter but watch your fingers

I will post a bunch more pics tonight when i get them uploaded, oh and we are going with the 13b rew because i cracked the rear iron on my s5 high compression motor that i built.

If you guys have any idea's or opinions please let me know, cuz i know there are a bunch of well thinking 7 brains out there

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Jrat better watch out...

clokker

iTrader: (2)

This is gonna take a LOT more rum.....

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

what gears are you going to run with that 8.8? Also what can you get a granny 8.8 for? A buddy of mine just got a chasis engineering ford 9" in for his first gen. he will be getting 6.00gears for it. Anyways looks like this will be a fun project

aram

iTrader: (1)

Why do you think you need an 8.8 to run 10's?

Slammedblk7

iTrader: (7)

you can run 9s on the stocker, just beef it up and you'll be amazed.

papiogxl

iTrader: (6)

Am I correct in assuming that you are going to use AI in order to reach this goal?

Good luck, I definitely think you would be one of the ones that could do it, especially judging by previous projects.

zbrown

Well guys I am going with the 8.8 because i only have a NA lsd in back right now.... but what the hey it got me into the 11's on slicks with a 1.60 60ft and didnt break so i cant complain.

I I know the TII rear is strong, i beleive it is around an 8" gear right? But will it be dependable? with supporting equipment like axles, lsd and pinion snubber and strong mounts?

Also i feel the i'd lose some considerable weight with the swap.... it seems to me the removal of the whole subframe and the install of a solid axle there would be a significant weight drop, is this true?? I think the 9" is alot heavier too isnt it?

I want stay around a 4.00 gear in back i think, i like my gearing as it sits..... shorter gears and 1rst gear is pointless, and id be in the sweet spot of 4th finishing crossing the line at about what mph i need. I want this to be a street car and not buzzing at 5k down the interstate all day.

Any opinons on this, give me some advice, i like hearing different thoughts.
I plan to see where the NA lsd breaks..... but if you guys think a TII rear will cut it then maybe just stick with that???

thanks guys

zbrown

alright got some pics loaded. I guess we'll start with some shiny stuff

Here are the polished 9.7:1 rotors i did that are going in the engine + the turbo



and the exhaust flanges showed up



Here is the pile-o-**** that came off the car so far.... note the wiring..... that is everything from the stock harness from the seats forward



Well here is a shot of the new wheel combos for the street. They are 5Zigen's with Mickey Thompson drag radials 275, should hook on the street. Have a set of 10.5 full slicks for the track





gotta love the take off position with the engine out.... base 11 second evo in the one pic aswell

zbrown

Here are some of the engine bay

Note the following

cross memeber for 13rew install
complete wire tuck
coils in car
radiator setup





the radiator is for an Integra... it is such a perfect fit.




in the next pics you can see the cross memeber i did. 1/2 cold rolled steel that bent in a press to fit perfectly. I am going to lay a strip of urethane down between the cross member and engine for mounting.

another thing that happend that i didnt design for, is that the tranny will just sit on the cross memeber aswell. no need to pull the tranny for engine extraction, and very easy engine installs. somthing that actually worked with bonus as well

OH yeah and since the fc engine sits at a stupid *** angle and not in the middle of the car, this one will sit square with the car and in the middle, **** like that bothers me for some reason




check out my sweet port job on the old s5 plate .... gayass cracked dowel casting if you can see too

Here are some of the IC setup. I will prolly place some black expanded metal over the front.... how would that look??? give me some advice on that









I still need some black trim to go anound the edges of the bumper where i cut it out.... so black expanded mesh or no?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

is it just the pics or does that radiator look smaller than the stock one? Not sure if I would trust a radiator made for a 4 banger to cool the likes of a rotary producing enough hp to get me down the 1/4 in 8 or 9 seconds. Just my thoughts. Anyways nice job on the ic ducting! and the rotors look bling bling!

zbrown

and to finish the night here are some of the interior

dont worry the dash and everything will be back in there

also i can reach all the fuses and everything with the dash on, youd be amazed how much room is back in there with the heater/ac stuff out

uhi have toggles running everything, i did the harness from scratch. turned out very nice and clean + everything workes

can see the coils there

the spark plug wires will come out he driver side heater core hole and the haltech engine harness through the passenger side one






more when i get the engine back from paint do the build

and if some are wondering the engine bay was painted with a PPG epoxy primer....it is thick and very very durable. i have had brake fluid sit on it with nothing to show for it

give some advice if you have it

thanks

zbrown

yeah the core itself is thinner,

but i measured and it holds a pinch more water than a stock rad...even with its small tanks. if i have heating problems i ll switch to a thicker core.

but when i was running on 400 wheel on the pt67 my temps usually sat around 190-200 but when i did the new intercooler setup (minus the ducting) temps sat around 160-170 all the time on the stock radiator and the fan never ran unless it sat still. I was very suprised by the huge diffence the large inlet and lack of bumper did for cooling

i think this rad should cool up to par becasue of the large amount of extra air flow from the very large entrance.... plus the ducting

maybe im wrong but i hope it works..... most hondas use half size rads, and the full size rads stock are 5/8 of an ich thick

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Watch out for what? A turbo on a table?...

I will probably be at 600 before him!

JK! The build looks SWEET man!

13b4me

I don't think that radiator will work. You'll be needing a 3" core at least to cool that beast.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

And only a few hours from me!

Borat voice "That's nice".

You got PM Z!

Dom_C

very nice setup man

NZ_87_TURBO

are you planning on running a dry sump setup?

zbrown

i wish ......going to make a deep sump oil pan out of aluminum. I have to because i am using the s5 front cover still. and the pan should turn out perty damn nice

anybody have any idea what the weight of stock subfram + diff vs an 8.8 solid axe would be ??

as for J-rat..... more power to the FC guys

yusoslo

waiting for more pics!

also coil relocation pics would be sweet!

papiogxl

iTrader: (6)

Its already in there, they're stock coils, one is next to the fuses and the other is under the fuses

Here:

FrankV702

iTrader: (14)

Damn.. Nice work! I was planning on doing a similar setup with my old GXL that I had gutted out. I took out every single wire in the car. Then when trying to wire everything back up, I figured I was waaaay in over my head. Now I understand a lot more about whats involved witha project such as this. So I may give it another try in a year or so. Right now my goal is to get my vert into 11s. Very hard I know, But im working on it. If I cant, ill buy a coupe and throw my setup in there.

Nice work though man. looks really clean

zbrown

here is a pic of the coils you can see clearly..... this was before i decided to rip out the stock massive harness. so that is why it is still there.

i was gonna just strip down the stock harness..... till i got into it and said **** it and just started from scratch... turned out nice thouh

should have the engine peices back from paint by fri or sat. then i can port and have it together by hopefully sunday. Prolly start on my oil pan tommorrow.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Man, I aint trying to compete... Just havin a little fun with ya!

yusoslo

Looks great. I just need to extend some wires so I can get my coils there I am thinking of mounting mine on the drivers side so I can access them easily. I also like how you have the blue and black colors so you know whats what in the engine bay.

Did you used custome cut to length wires? I am also worried about finding a good ground for these coils under the dash... I guess I could mount them and then run a ground wire to one of the bolts where I mount.