Park the car for the winter... some advices?
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Park the car for the winter... some advices?
There's no way my FC is gonna know the winter of Quebec city: the salt, the calcium and the icy temperature.
And I want to park it the good way. So can you tell me if there's any special way to park a rotary?
Thanks guys!
Alex
And I want to park it the good way. So can you tell me if there's any special way to park a rotary?
Thanks guys!
Alex
...94% correct.
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,283
Likes: 2
From: High Texas
Originally Posted by sTaLa
There's no way my FC is gonna know the winter of Quebec city: the salt, the calcium and the icy temperature.
And I want to park it the good way. So can you tell me if there's any special way to park a rotary?
Thanks guys!
Alex
And I want to park it the good way. So can you tell me if there's any special way to park a rotary?
Thanks guys!
Alex
Rotary Freak
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,718
Likes: 1
From: Ames, IA
Originally Posted by Makenzie71
Best way would be to park it in a garage or at least covered. Run her down to about 1/8 a tank and every two weeks go out, add half a gallon of premium and let her run for 10~15 minutes to keep the internals nice and wet.
*restrains tongue*
*counts to 10*
No. Just, no. Don't listen to this guy at all.
Do a search on car storage or winterizing - there are a few really good threads on it.
You want a full tank of gas to prevent condensation. You should also add some fuel stabilizer stuff to it, though for a few months it's probably not a big issue.
You do NOT want to run the engine for 15 minutes every few weeks. That doesn't get it hot enough to boil any water out of the oil, and all it does is promote condensation and acid and other bad things.
In a nutshell, you want to change the oil out, coolant if needed, fog the engine with storage oil if you really want, plug the air intake to prevent critters from making a nest, same with the exhaust, pull the battery out, and either raise the tire pressure to 50-60 PSI to prevent flat spotting, or better, put it up on jackstands (probably on the normal suspension bits so the struts aren't fully extended all winter). Then cover it with a good car cover, and leave it alone until spring.
-=Russ=-
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Russ seems to know what he's talking about, but everyone else told me to warm up the engine once a few weeks.
I guess I'll just search further... I don't want to mess up with this car!
Tanks
Alex
I guess I'll just search further... I don't want to mess up with this car!
Tanks
Alex
...94% correct.
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,283
Likes: 2
From: High Texas
Originally Posted by Syonyk
You want a full tank of gas to prevent condensation. You should also add some fuel stabilizer stuff to it, though for a few months it's probably not a big issue.
You do NOT want to run the engine for 15 minutes every few weeks. That doesn't get it hot enough to boil any water out of the oil, and all it does is promote condensation and acid and other bad things.
There's no specifically right or superior way to do it, but unless you're leaving the car stored for a really extended period of time, beyond what a single winter alone will offer, there's no reason to break it down in such a fashion.
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Rotary Freak
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,718
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From: Ames, IA
Aaron Cake's suggestions:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=447478
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=362195
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=349139
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103560
Also:
http://autorepair.about.com/od/carcare/a/storecar.htm
http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/storing.html
Now, can we stop saying "Oh, run it ever week or two for 15 minutes"?
-=Russ=-
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=447478
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=362195
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=349139
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103560
Put the recommended amount of fuel stabilizer in the tank. Go for adrive to get the car good and hot, then change the oil. While the engine is cooling, give the car a good wash and wax job. Vacuum the interior, and place moth ***** at all 4 corners to keep mice away. If you have leather, apply protectant. Pump up the tires to 50 LBs (keeps them from flat spotting). Back to the engine. Change coolant. Get some fogging oil and liberally spray into the leading spark plug holes. Rotate the engine by hand and repeat 2 more times. Put the plugs back in. Disconnect the battery and take it into the house. Plug the intake with a cloth (keeps rodents out). Store the car in a ventilated, protected area. Crack the windows slightly, and put a heavy blanket over the entire car to protect it.
I've posted storage procedures before, but I'll make a summary:
1. Engine. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. Pull off the air filter, and begin spraying fogging oil (available at any automotive store) into the AFM/airbox. Start with a slight spray, gradually increasing the amount over about 3-5 minutes. Increase the amount of oil until the engine runs really rough for about 20 seconds, then spray in enough to stall it. This will coat the intake, throttle bodies and engine internals with a thick coating of protective oil. You will make HUGE amounts of smoke doing this. Now, let the engine cool while you change the oil. Change the coolant (after the engine is COLD). Pull each leading spark plug and give the internals a massive dose of fogging oil. Most fogging cans come with a long applicator, and you can use that to spray most of the inside of the engine if you rotate the eccentric slightly. Be careful NOT to get the applicator stuck in the engine.
2. If the brake fluid is older then a year, change it. It absorbs moisture over time.
3. Spray the underside of the car lightly with oil, especially the exhaust. The exhaust rusts amazingly fast when not in use.
4. Wash, wax and vacuum the car. Apply dash protector, and crack the windows slightly (about 1CM).
5. Pump the tires up to about 50 PSI, or raise the car on jack stands to keep the tires off the ground. Apply tire protectant.
6. Disconnect the battery and bring it inside where it is warm.
7. If storing inside, cover the car with a thick blanket. If storing outside, use a well secured breathable car cover.
Obviously, if the car is not operational, you can't run the engine. So you will need to fog through the spark plug holes and the intake ports. I generally apply duct tape to the orifices of unused engines. Towels absorb moisture, and make an excellant home for mouses.
1. Engine. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. Pull off the air filter, and begin spraying fogging oil (available at any automotive store) into the AFM/airbox. Start with a slight spray, gradually increasing the amount over about 3-5 minutes. Increase the amount of oil until the engine runs really rough for about 20 seconds, then spray in enough to stall it. This will coat the intake, throttle bodies and engine internals with a thick coating of protective oil. You will make HUGE amounts of smoke doing this. Now, let the engine cool while you change the oil. Change the coolant (after the engine is COLD). Pull each leading spark plug and give the internals a massive dose of fogging oil. Most fogging cans come with a long applicator, and you can use that to spray most of the inside of the engine if you rotate the eccentric slightly. Be careful NOT to get the applicator stuck in the engine.
2. If the brake fluid is older then a year, change it. It absorbs moisture over time.
3. Spray the underside of the car lightly with oil, especially the exhaust. The exhaust rusts amazingly fast when not in use.
4. Wash, wax and vacuum the car. Apply dash protector, and crack the windows slightly (about 1CM).
5. Pump the tires up to about 50 PSI, or raise the car on jack stands to keep the tires off the ground. Apply tire protectant.
6. Disconnect the battery and bring it inside where it is warm.
7. If storing inside, cover the car with a thick blanket. If storing outside, use a well secured breathable car cover.
Obviously, if the car is not operational, you can't run the engine. So you will need to fog through the spark plug holes and the intake ports. I generally apply duct tape to the orifices of unused engines. Towels absorb moisture, and make an excellant home for mouses.
http://autorepair.about.com/od/carcare/a/storecar.htm
http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/storing.html
Now, can we stop saying "Oh, run it ever week or two for 15 minutes"?
-=Russ=-
(_8(|)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,034
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From: Manhattan, Kansas
also depending on how long it will be sitting make sure to either mvoe the car...to prevent flatspots in tires, or just put some old shitty tires on and let it sit on those. Or, ive heard if you put a lilextra air in your tires it will help prevent flatspots. But before you go doing that id search some, i seem to recall aaroncake saying that, but then again maybe he didnt.
edit: guess i was right about aaroncake!
edit: guess i was right about aaroncake!
Last edited by 88t2romad; Sep 13, 2005 at 09:49 PM. Reason: beat me to it
Rotary Freak
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,718
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From: Ames, IA
Originally Posted by Makenzie71
It only takes my car 10 minutes to warm up. If normal operating temperature isn't hot enough to rid the oil of perspired water, we've all got lots of problems.
There's no specifically right or superior way to do it, but unless you're leaving the car stored for a really extended period of time, beyond what a single winter alone will offer, there's no reason to break it down in such a fashion.
There's no specifically right or superior way to do it, but unless you're leaving the car stored for a really extended period of time, beyond what a single winter alone will offer, there's no reason to break it down in such a fashion.
I will agree that some of this is overkill for a winter storage, but I'd rather go overkill than have trouble in the spring.
-=Russ=-
Rotary Freak
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 16
From: South Carolina
I've owned my Vert for 18 years. I am often away from home for six months at a time over the past 9 years.
To prepare for long storage, I (1) drive it into the garage, (2) shut it down, (3) disconnect the battery, (4) leave.
When I get home, I (1) reconnect the battery, (2) drive it.
To prepare for long storage, I (1) drive it into the garage, (2) shut it down, (3) disconnect the battery, (4) leave.
When I get home, I (1) reconnect the battery, (2) drive it.
Defected to the dark side
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 924
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From: toronto
Thats how i do it. Unfortunately i can't afford fancy indoor storage so all i use is a car cover.
Also make sure you depressurize the fuel tank as well...leave the tranny out of gear...and leave the handbrake off.
Also make sure you depressurize the fuel tank as well...leave the tranny out of gear...and leave the handbrake off.
Originally Posted by Syonyk
[Obscene language deleted before the mods get to it]
*restrains tongue*
*counts to 10*
No. Just, no. Don't listen to this guy at all.
Do a search on car storage or winterizing - there are a few really good threads on it.
You want a full tank of gas to prevent condensation. You should also add some fuel stabilizer stuff to it, though for a few months it's probably not a big issue.
You do NOT want to run the engine for 15 minutes every few weeks. That doesn't get it hot enough to boil any water out of the oil, and all it does is promote condensation and acid and other bad things.
In a nutshell, you want to change the oil out, coolant if needed, fog the engine with storage oil if you really want, plug the air intake to prevent critters from making a nest, same with the exhaust, pull the battery out, and either raise the tire pressure to 50-60 PSI to prevent flat spotting, or better, put it up on jackstands (probably on the normal suspension bits so the struts aren't fully extended all winter). Then cover it with a good car cover, and leave it alone until spring.
-=Russ=-
*restrains tongue*
*counts to 10*
No. Just, no. Don't listen to this guy at all.
Do a search on car storage or winterizing - there are a few really good threads on it.
You want a full tank of gas to prevent condensation. You should also add some fuel stabilizer stuff to it, though for a few months it's probably not a big issue.
You do NOT want to run the engine for 15 minutes every few weeks. That doesn't get it hot enough to boil any water out of the oil, and all it does is promote condensation and acid and other bad things.
In a nutshell, you want to change the oil out, coolant if needed, fog the engine with storage oil if you really want, plug the air intake to prevent critters from making a nest, same with the exhaust, pull the battery out, and either raise the tire pressure to 50-60 PSI to prevent flat spotting, or better, put it up on jackstands (probably on the normal suspension bits so the struts aren't fully extended all winter). Then cover it with a good car cover, and leave it alone until spring.
-=Russ=-
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 759
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From: Vallejo, CA
I live in California. If you wish, you could bring it down to me and I would drive it over the winter months for you, so you wont have to do all the winterizing on her. I'd run her daily, just like I do with mine now. Just a thought. And if not here, at least take this one piece of advice: do not leave it in gear. Lived in Reno, NV for 30 years, freezing cold and long winters is no good in gear. Experience.
PEACE THE DOG
PEACE THE DOG
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Sherbrooke,QC,Canada
But keep in mind guys, that in Quebec when often see temperature -15F(-25C).
Avant de remiser ton auto, assure toi que ton coolant est Ok(Quil va pas gelé a -25c).
Met le char sur des jackstand ou met lui des vieux tires.
Met du stabilisateur d'essence
NE DÉMARRE PAS LA VOITURE L'HIVERS
Quand tu la sortiras change l'huile et le coolant.
Avant de remiser ton auto, assure toi que ton coolant est Ok(Quil va pas gelé a -25c).
Met le char sur des jackstand ou met lui des vieux tires.
Met du stabilisateur d'essence
NE DÉMARRE PAS LA VOITURE L'HIVERS
Quand tu la sortiras change l'huile et le coolant.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 474
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From: indiana
i have a question about not running it. i know for a fact that there is a spot on the front iron that when coolant sits there the wall between the coolant seal and coolant passages will rot and break. or is that only going to happen if it sits for longer then 6 months?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by Makenzie71
Best way would be to park it in a garage or at least covered. Run her down to about 1/8 a tank and every two weeks go out, add half a gallon of premium and let her run for 10~15 minutes to keep the internals nice and wet.
whatever you do do not leave it in gear or w/ the e-brake pulled. put something behind the wheels and call it good. otherwise the calipers might seize or tranny might stick
...94% correct.
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,283
Likes: 2
From: High Texas
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
This is one of the worst things you can do. See posts below concerning advice on how to properly store a car.
...yeah...already covered these alleged "problems", guy...
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