reviver

I am a newbie to rotary engines but I think they rule.
My friend has let his 88 n/a convertible sit for about 21/2 years without starting it. I have finally convinced him to let me have it if I get it running. He said it had major fuel injector leakage when he stopped driving it and since then some squirrells have decided to infest the engine bay and chew on some wires.

I plan on replacing all fluids and filters, plugs and wires prior to starting. Is there anything else I should be concerned with?
Should I replace the fuel injectors right away or try to get it started first?

Kenteth

well, you should be concerned about those wires don't you think?

I'd get the injectors out and sent to cruzin performance to be cleaned and balanced. In the mean time you can be patching the wire harness and doing the pheonix maintnance plan

alwayssideways

just wait till that smoke pours out of the exhaust ... hmm memories. basically just do what kenneth said. sent out the injectors. while they are gone. repair and replace what you can . might wanna take a look in the gas tank to . i found some nasty suprises when i opened that tank after mine had sat for about 1.5 years maybe more. just go over the car and find stuff that needs fixing. and what you said. fluids, belts, filters, plugs, wires good luck .. its nice to have friends that give you cars!! eheheh

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

ATF in the cylinders, spin it- see if it turns over, hope its not carboned locked.

Kenteth

do we actually call them cylinders.. not very cylinder like

wozzoom

The fuel leak is probably not the injectors. The leak is more likely due to the Dulsation Dampner located on the primary fuel rail. When you get under the hood to fix the damage from the squirrells you'll have a better idea of where the leak is coming from. I'd strongly recommend NOT trying to start the car until you fix the fuel leak...this is common sense.

When you get the leak fixed, there are several things you'll want to do before starting:
1) Drain the old gas. There is a plug on the bottom of the fuel tank. Don't try to start the car with the "varnish" from the tank. You'll clog the entire fuel system.
2) Do the routine maintenance - Oil change and filter, change the coolant, change the fuel filter, pull the spark plugs.
3) With the spark plugs out, squirt some 20W50 oil (Some ppl recommend ATF) into the LOWER SPARK PLUG holes. Then try and turn the engine with a socket and wrench on the main pulley bolt in a clockwise direction. If your lucky, the engine will move. If not, the engine is stuck and you'll have to get more drastic.

Do the things mentioned above and let us know if you need help getting more drastic!

YearsOfDecay

Dude... I hate to be the harbinger of doom.... but, If i were you, I'd run from that Vert like a hippie running from a bar of soap.

Rotarys do rule.. However... a high mileage rotary that has sat for 2 1/2 years without being started is going to be a pain in the *** that you have never in your wildest dreams imagined.

The best course of action for that car is to pull the motor, replace all the rubber parts, and do a rebuild on the motor.

You'd better totally flush the brake lines as well, brake fiuld is hygroscopic and by now, may have a high water content. Check that all the calipers are working correctly and that the rotors haven't rusted in place!

If you decide that you wanna give it a try starting it first.. Here is what I would do. Change the oil, don't change anything else because if its roached, you'll just be wasting money. Then, do the ATF into the lower (leading) spark pluig holes. (assuming that starter will crank the motor) you want to pull the egi fuse, then put some atf, like a teaspoon in each hole, and turn the motor over a couple of times (you're not trying to start it, just spin the motor to get the ATF through the motor. then, put another teaspoon in each hole, and spin the motor a coupole more times.

Then, I know its hard, but let it sit overnight. This will let the ATF work if its going to work. The next morning, put the fuse back in and try and fire it up.

NOW about the injector leakage.. was it leak-down... like when he'd park it and try to start it again it would be flooded, or was there actually gas on the motor?????? If there was gas leaking out, you want to get that fixed before you go any further qs per the guys suggestions above.

Good luck my man....

But, if the body is in good shape, and you can get the car for dirt... I would spend the money (or take a lone or rob some old lady) and get a fresh motor and replace the worn parts, that way, you;'ll have a cool ride with a new motor that you know is going to last for a while.

YearsOfDecay

WOZZOOM.... god i whish i was a cartoon character.....

motto

You got to start some where....Good Luck...I hope you get it running....Good advice about the ATF above.....

95R2-89TII Ground Zero

Start it right up, then give it the 9K redline gas pedal check.

SureShot

Spouting sarcasm on this guy's first post - shame on you..

astrochild7

iTrader: (3)

i wouldn't use atf on a motor that sat. better off useing marvel mystrey oil.. a couple reasons are that atf tends to be harsh on rubber seals and better for cleaning a running engine. if your motor has sat for quite sometime it needs lube and rejuvination of the seals..... pull your exhaust manifold and duc tape your exhaust ports(might need to clean well so tape will stick) take your u.i.m. off and fill the motor with MMO . you will need to even out the amount into each runner.... might nned to burp the duct tape so it fills all the way.... let motor sit for 48 hrs at least..... then change oil and all other fluids.... try to trun the motor with a breaker bar.. after everything is loose(if not you tear the motor apart/bigger fish to fry) drain motor clean plugs and reassemble se should come back to life... oh and address the fuel issue..
I have saved three motors that way.. all sat for 2+ yrs... I've seen other people fry'em when i know it would save them.... my 90gxl sat for 3.5 yrs 95k and now has 120k and strong.... one of the motors was sitting on the side of a house in grass for 2yrs. found it /free

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I've pulled a number of RX-7s out of storage....

First things first, drain the old gas completely, and flush the fuel lines. Normally you just fill with new gas, then disconnect the feed line at the engine then run it into a bucket for a few minutes. BE CAREFUL. Now drain the fuel again.

Change ALL the fluids, belts, hoses, etc. Basically, a full 60K tuneup.

If you want to be thorough, pull the fuel rails, flush them out, and have the injectors professionally serviced.

Put a few ounces of normal motor oil into each low spark plug hole. NOT ATF, or Marvel Mystery Oil, or any other garbage. Just plain old 10W-30. Rotate the engine by hand a few times with the plugs out. Now repeat several more times. Put the plugs back in.

Put in a new battery, then start the car and follow normal breakin procedures for the next 500 miles...

Obviously, if there are wiring problems, you will want to solve those.

DO NOT forget about the transmission lube and brake fluid. You'll likely need new brake rotors as well, and you'll want to do a thorough chassis inspection as well.

reviver

Thanks for all the advice.
I do not think there was any leakage of the injectors outside of the motor. My friend says it was only leaking after turning it off, so it would not start again. Which I have heard is a common problem.
I might start in on the squirrel damage in the morning.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

AKKKK.

Working around my v8 and my dads new toys have corruped my brain- my bad-