what the heck just happened
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From: phelps new york
what the heck just happened
I just took the car off jack stands in the garage after putting in rear toe eliminators. I started the car and pulled in out of garage and left it running for about 11 min in the driveway. I came out. the car was idleing sweet, and normal temp, .25 on the meter, everything was fine. I drove it about 300 yards and I started getting on it a bit in then I lost all power, this engine has about 5 thousans miles on it, rebuilt from atkins. The car idles steady, though lumpy and has next to no power upwards of 4k, and very little before that. I have a wideband, thats fine, temp is still fine, and the car will restart fine as well. I checked the vacume lines, loooked fine. I also reseated my iginition components, same thing. Whats next? this is nuts, the ENGINE IS BRAND NEW. I have an MBC with 10.5-11 on it max and really wasnt hammering on it at all. What can I check now?
HELP
jared
Last edited by jaredcolletti; Apr 24, 2003 at 11:56 PM.
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From: phelps new york
BTW, for whats its worth. Ive had 2 engines blow in the past. and Ive had to limp and nurse them to idle and restarts ware a pain, thats not the case now.
I know...compression.
whats about fuel filter or something simple like that? the oil looked fine too
I know...compression.
whats about fuel filter or something simple like that? the oil looked fine too
Take A Look Around
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From: Portage La Prairie, MB Canada
Did you check the connector that plugs into the airflow meter? I had the same problem and I tryed everything, and finally I wiggled the connector and it solved the problem, I taped it up so it couldn't move anymore and had no problems since
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From: phelps new york
Originally posted by SOIA
Did you check the connector that plugs into the airflow meter? I had the same problem and I tryed everything, and finally I wiggled the connector and it solved the problem, I taped it up so it couldn't move anymore and had no problems since
Did you check the connector that plugs into the airflow meter? I had the same problem and I tryed everything, and finally I wiggled the connector and it solved the problem, I taped it up so it couldn't move anymore and had no problems since
the metal device, yeah. i also checked the turbo pipipng and intercooler piping as well, all tight.
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From: phelps new york
yeah, the engine still is if they dont try to get funny with the money, play semantics. I didnt hammer on this car at all.
I didnt do the compression test, I am gonna on monday, to look for 3 peak...good idea right? thatll tell me if its an apex seals?
thanks guys
jared
I didnt do the compression test, I am gonna on monday, to look for 3 peak...good idea right? thatll tell me if its an apex seals?
thanks guys
jared
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From: phelps new york
Originally posted by TheTwinTurboRX-7
should still be under gurantee then
should still be under gurantee then
yeah man, but it wasnt free to install the engine...sucks man. I might do it mayself....what do you guys thing
jared
I wanta be with the BUC!
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From: Knoxville, TN
Pulling and putting an engine back in isn't that hard if you have someone else to help you. And the hardest thing in my mind is all the anyoying vacume lines, and the seemingly never ending plugs. But if you don't have the tool I wouldn't suggest doing this.
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
A note about doing an install yourself...
Originally posted by hypntyz7
I second all that, and have some to add. An engine swap in a 7 is unlike a swap in any other car on the road; you can take a toyota camry and swap in a junkyard motor, and if everything is connected (and sometimes even if it isnt) the bitch will fire on the first turn of the key. Well, even though 2gens are still EFI motors, theyre vastly different, and far from a turnkey swap. Sometimes it takes even someone like myself 2-4 days to get an engine swap to fire up adn run anywhere near right.
The most common things that'll srew you: AFM connector loose or off; large vacuum/intake leak, such as intake tube, BAC tube(s), brake MC hose, etc.; non-connected wires (especially in and around the ecu area), fuel lines backwards (supply off the filter in front on the engine), or no fuel to the engine (fuel pump not running). Depending on what kind of engine swap (longblock, where all the accessories and wiring were not disturbed since it last ran, or shortblock where everything got transferred part by part) you can cause a lot of problems by jostling all that stuff around.
Bottom line, there are no les than 25 things that could be causing your problems, and probably a combination of them. This is the point in time when people on this forum, even those well experienced, wont be of much help to you because we're not standing in front of the car, able to put our hands and testing equipment on it. There are some things you just have to see/hear to figure out; you might call something a knock that I might call a click, etc. etc.
Now on this issue of sparkplugs, it sounds like you may have just screwed yourself there. In your defense I have had plugs that seemed to be fairly tight going in/out before, and they just needed some lube/antisieze. I suggest you remove the plug, use liberal amounts of wd-40 etc. on the threads on the housing, and clean the threads of the plug itself with a wire brush or the like, then apply some oil or antisieze to the threads and slowly put it back in. I have yet to see a plug crossthread in a housing; even though theyre aluminum, theyre made very well/strong and the threads dont just give up without some major torque behind them, which is hard to obtain on a rotary because of the position of the plugs (and your ratchet in the engine bay).
I have gotten engines to run before with one plug totally missing (unbeknownst to me at the time) but it just depends on it's compression on the opposing rotor; having a plug loose would certainly decrease compression on one rotor and cut the chances of it starting in half. You shouldnt *have* to pull the thing either. Usually new (or different sets of used) plugs with some oil/atf in the lower holes will do the trick if nothign else is seriously out of whack. Keep i mind plugs foul easy as hell in a rotary, especially one that has sat for a while, or flooded, etc.
I second all that, and have some to add. An engine swap in a 7 is unlike a swap in any other car on the road; you can take a toyota camry and swap in a junkyard motor, and if everything is connected (and sometimes even if it isnt) the bitch will fire on the first turn of the key. Well, even though 2gens are still EFI motors, theyre vastly different, and far from a turnkey swap. Sometimes it takes even someone like myself 2-4 days to get an engine swap to fire up adn run anywhere near right.
The most common things that'll srew you: AFM connector loose or off; large vacuum/intake leak, such as intake tube, BAC tube(s), brake MC hose, etc.; non-connected wires (especially in and around the ecu area), fuel lines backwards (supply off the filter in front on the engine), or no fuel to the engine (fuel pump not running). Depending on what kind of engine swap (longblock, where all the accessories and wiring were not disturbed since it last ran, or shortblock where everything got transferred part by part) you can cause a lot of problems by jostling all that stuff around.
Bottom line, there are no les than 25 things that could be causing your problems, and probably a combination of them. This is the point in time when people on this forum, even those well experienced, wont be of much help to you because we're not standing in front of the car, able to put our hands and testing equipment on it. There are some things you just have to see/hear to figure out; you might call something a knock that I might call a click, etc. etc.
Now on this issue of sparkplugs, it sounds like you may have just screwed yourself there. In your defense I have had plugs that seemed to be fairly tight going in/out before, and they just needed some lube/antisieze. I suggest you remove the plug, use liberal amounts of wd-40 etc. on the threads on the housing, and clean the threads of the plug itself with a wire brush or the like, then apply some oil or antisieze to the threads and slowly put it back in. I have yet to see a plug crossthread in a housing; even though theyre aluminum, theyre made very well/strong and the threads dont just give up without some major torque behind them, which is hard to obtain on a rotary because of the position of the plugs (and your ratchet in the engine bay).
I have gotten engines to run before with one plug totally missing (unbeknownst to me at the time) but it just depends on it's compression on the opposing rotor; having a plug loose would certainly decrease compression on one rotor and cut the chances of it starting in half. You shouldnt *have* to pull the thing either. Usually new (or different sets of used) plugs with some oil/atf in the lower holes will do the trick if nothign else is seriously out of whack. Keep i mind plugs foul easy as hell in a rotary, especially one that has sat for a while, or flooded, etc.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: arlington, tx
i think it all depends on if youve done it before or not. if this is your first time....the it'll take you long, of course. just be sure to take some tape, and label all of the hoses/wires because you WILL forget where they hook up. there have been a few good engine write ups about removing the engine...search for them.
Pulling the engine is rather straight forward...and with common sense, and alot of patience, anyone can do it. But it is a PITA....make sure you try new plugs first..and anything else you can think of that might change your compression, because obviously...this is easier, and less time consuming, than pulling the engine and sending it to atkins.
-tommy
Pulling the engine is rather straight forward...and with common sense, and alot of patience, anyone can do it. But it is a PITA....make sure you try new plugs first..and anything else you can think of that might change your compression, because obviously...this is easier, and less time consuming, than pulling the engine and sending it to atkins.
-tommy
Refined Valley Dude
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From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
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From: phelps new york
Originally posted by FCdrifter
....make sure you try new plugs first..and anything else you can think of that might change your compression, because obviously...this is easier, and less time consuming, than pulling the engine and sending it to atkins.
-tommy
....make sure you try new plugs first..and anything else you can think of that might change your compression, because obviously...this is easier, and less time consuming, than pulling the engine and sending it to atkins.
-tommy
anyone have any expierience with the engine removal and reinstall videos atkins makes. maybe a copy. was it useful?
jared
man this engine has less than 5k on it adn the mods I have are all within the realm of reasonable considering what Ive read here.
10.5 lbs boost, wasnt and never have, run lean. AND, i wasnt even getting on it in the least bit.
man, whats wrong. i hope its just a bad enginr. its tii bad they dont cover labor, thats kinda crappy, i think.
jared
jared
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