Damn, pulled in to work and opened hood to cool off and saw the coolant line to the twins burst and **** all over the turbos.

What should I replace it with:
1. Silicone
2. Viton
3. Steel braided line

What cap is supposed to be stock on the filler neck? The repair manual refers to the AST cap as the radiator cap. So is the filler neck cap supposed to be "no" pressure and the AST cap 14-16lbs? ...anyone have orginal OEM caps? Could too much pressure burst the lines?

 

silicone

 

Does anyone know (offhand) the diameter and length of that water hose? Repair manual-Engine Chapter: Pg C-95, step 6.

 

Were those old lines, or had you replaced them?

I would be silly here and vote stock, but then I'm all like that and stuff

Also, if one line has gone, more are to follow...

 

The turbo coolant lines blew on mine also. Just put new stock lines back on.

 

Nobody has the OEM rubber one in stock and my backup car is not working. So I will get silicone tomorrow morning. Is the 350 degree ok or do I need the 550 degree stuff? Anyone know the ID?

350* -> http://www.bakerprecision.com/purosil.htm
550* -> http://www.bakerprecision.com/purosil7.htm

 

might as well spend the extra bucks and get the higher grade

 

ewwwwwww orange! get a diff color. ick and get 550.

 

if I were u id be extra safe and get the steel braided.

 

stock lines...... simply pick a regular mileage interval and replace them..... so you never have to worry about it again........

Preventative maintenance is the key!!!!!!!!

 

I am interested if other than stock lines work well there. I swapped mine and they are fairly "bent". It seems that if the hoses aren't made that way they will crimp.

Please post if it works for you.

 

^ it worked fine. I wasn't able to get the 550* because the smallest OD was 1". The needed ID=3/8 & OD=3/4, so I got the 350* in a dark blue. The stock length is 5.5" but I used 6" because 1' was the min' purchase and I made one for my friend. I could have easily used 6.5" or maybe even 7" and it would have looked alot better since the nipple is very long. The bends I beleive are so the hose does not touch/rub the engine parts as is for the rubber outer sleeve. You can reuse the sleeve though. Oh, I just stopped by Home Depot and used the pruning shears in the garden dept to cut them.

I bought the silicone hose from Baker precision and luckinly Mazdatrix had the metal gasket for my y-pipe in stock.

 

Found this "LINK" with a good pic, since I don't have a dig' cam. I replaced the top/left one but not the bottem/right one yet. I'm not sure how easy it is to get to that bottom one.

 

Not just plain silicone, it better have some braiding...

I'd replace it with a stock hose, both stock coolant hoses have bends in them. You don't want a piece of straight hose to kink and cut off coolant to the turbos...

 

^ Just the plain silicone is stronger then the OEM rubber. I didn't ask for any braided version. The OEM hose was literaly as soft as a baloon in the middle and the ends were hard. I could allways reinforce it with the 550* stuff over it, like the OEM one has a rubber sleeve.

It doesn't need to be bent, well that peice doesn't anyhow. I beleive the bends are so it doesn't rub on hot engine parts and even with the strait peice it doesn't, comes close but doesn't. You can just slide off the OEM rubber sleeve and slide it on the silicone replacement.

 

Get the steal braided lines.

 

Yeah, when that lower turbo coolant hose lets go it's like a Nuke Mushroom cloud when you pop the hood. Very scary sight and dramatic to passers-by, but if the car didn't overheat you should be ok to replace hose, add coolant and burp the system. And any primary turbo oil seal leak dripping onto it WILL soften the hose.

 

^ I do have slight turbo oil leakage but the line was clean. I wasn't able to change the lower one. There are too many steel lines in the way, they should have been replaced when the turbo was rebuilt.

I didn't burp the system afterwards and realized it when the car got too hot. It looks like it's ok now except for a nasty burning smell. I don't know if it's the coolant or my clutch, since the clutch seems to be slippping. But why would the smell linger after shutdown? I had to close the garage door. Damn, I want to take it to the races tonight, uhg!

 

I don't know what silicone hose your using but if it is pure silicone it will fail. All water hoses have braiding internally, the braiding on your stock hose probably failed then the rubber failed later.

 

I agree with turbojeff here. I used some Baker hose b/w the AST and filler cap and it failed. May be it's the Baker hose itself. Don't know though.

FWIW, I used 3/8" I.D. Purosil hose w/o internal braiding for the turbo lines. Installed it 6 years ago and it's holding but planning to replace it with the Aeroquip reusable hose line instead.

 

I can't find the hose right now and my pic isn't clear enough. I think there were only a few strands of string inside of it, so the Baker hose is stronger even without braiding. I'm not familiar with the Purosil hose and may do braided stanless steel with the engine rebuild.

Edit: ok found the Aeoquip on Aeroquip stainless braided hose online but it ays it's only good for 300* and the Baker silicone is good fro 350* so the only advantage is strength from pressure but I can use Vitek or stainless steel sleeving for that, couldn't I?

 

Isn't the Baker silicone a Purosil brand? The link I gave above shows Purosil in it and a search for Purosil comes up with Baker silicone.

Well this stuff sounds best: Aeroquip AE246 High Pressure Teflon Hose

 

Just go get a few inches of rubber hose in the correct size thats made for fuel lines. It should hold up real good, thats about like what the stock line looks like anyway.

STEPHEN

 

^ well that's an idea, although i'm happy with the silicone hose (for now), looks great and it takes the heat but I don't know about the pressure. When my engine is apart for the rebuild I will use the Aeroqip Teflon stuff. http://www.vargaair.com/ (hoses)

Construction: Aeroquip AE246 Hose consists of a thin wall Teflon inner tube and a Hi-Pac outer braid consisting of densely packed small diameter stainless steel wires braided in a uniform pattern.
Operating Temperatures: -67° to +400°F., Fluid and ambient.
Application: High pressure and high temperature service. Teflon Hose is unaffected by fuels, lube oils, coolants or solvents commonly used in aircraft applications.

Anyone know if you can just use regular OEM clamps or screw down ones or do you have to use speacial hose end fittings or band clamps?

 

That's exactly what I used.

Would there be any benefit to steel braiding the lines? Like with a kit? Or are they just for looks...?