2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

No parking, side, tail, dash lights FIX

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Old Jul 25, 2002 | 02:28 AM
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No parking, side, tail, dash lights FIX

No instrument lights, no parking/side marker lights, no tail lights, no high beams.

Light switch 91 Vert

Which went first, the switch or the connector?

To remove the instrument bezel, the steering column surround must be removed. The top pops off. There are two tapping screws on the outer edges and one machine screw in the left middle of the bottom.

The '91 style turn/light and cruise levers must be removed from their mount on the steering column. There is a machine screw holding the assembly in the column. Remove the screw and the lever assembly lifts out of the mount.

The bezel has two tapping screws in the bottom and three in the top. Yes, the tabs on the bottom screws were broken.

The connectors on the harness to the light and wiper switch have a release tab on the inside of the harness connector. Press outboard to release.

Here is the connector with a burned female connector. The switch also has a burned male connector.



Question:
A. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 91 vert? The 89 FSM posted on the web has a connector with 4 prongs on each side of the release tab and nine prongs on the other side. My 91 vert connector has 3 prongs on each side of the release tab and 8 prongs on the other side. What ciriuit burned on the connector?

B. Does anyone have a source for a replacement connector.

What caused the arcing of that pin?

Last edited by downwinddave; Jul 25, 2002 at 02:30 AM.
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Old Jul 25, 2002 | 02:35 AM
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Remove levers

Turn/dim lever and cruise control lever must be removed

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Old Jul 25, 2002 | 02:40 AM
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Switch connector

This is the switch connector.



What circuit is this?

Did a failed switch or something on the other end go bad?

Last edited by downwinddave; Jul 25, 2002 at 02:46 AM.
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Old Jul 25, 2002 | 02:45 AM
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Da switch
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Old Jul 25, 2002 | 03:06 AM
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Switch inside

Here is the back of the switch board.



Looks like it has been hot.

Solder joints look OK, but varnish deposits appear in the upper right corner?

Screws holding board in, are soldered. What is trick to get board out and look at component side?

RX? clean and resolder?
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Old Jul 25, 2002 | 10:09 AM
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HOw do you open the switch

How do you clean the switch contacts?

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Old Jul 25, 2002 | 10:20 AM
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Wire

Differance between 89 diagram and my LH cluster connector.



What caused burn?

Last edited by downwinddave; Jul 25, 2002 at 10:28 AM.
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Old Jul 25, 2002 | 10:24 AM
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89 diagram

Does anyone have the 91 diagram?

This is from the 89 FSM. Note the difference.




Mahalo!
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Old Jul 25, 2002 | 10:30 AM
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89 'verts use the same dash front harness as the 88 'verts. Your 91 is different because of the airbag wiring.

it appears to me as if it is the pin with the White/Green wire that fried.

If so then that is the parking light input wire from the fuse box.

Do you have any additional lights or accessories added onto the parking light circuit? The connector contacts look pretty clean, and not very corroded, so I am surprised it overheated.
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Old Jul 25, 2002 | 10:42 AM
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Thanks for the feed back.

No, nothing added on the parking light input.
When I was taking the assembly apart, everything worked as I moved the connector around.

Looking at the harness connector, which is fryed the most, I hate to just clean it up and put it back with out knowing what caused the problem if the first place...
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Old Jul 25, 2002 | 11:02 AM
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the connector has green corrosion on the back side (all others are clean) and is connected to a white wire with green and blue stripe.

I have a replacement cluster switch. Which, by the way looks like the same pin is a bit discolored (brown tint, not burned).

How does one replace the contact female pin in the harness connector plug?
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Old Jul 25, 2002 | 11:04 AM
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you should replace the harness. It is only about 2 feet long and easy to do. Since it is so burnt I would not recommend just cleaning it and putting it back in.

Also because lightswitchs are so wasy to find both in junk yards and on-line (like eBay) I would recommend replacing it as well. Since the contacts look good, it must have overheated in the switch, and you have a high probability of it happening again.

If you go online to get one, try and find one from the mainland in the west and avoid parts from the deep south, as the humidity (much like your state of Hawaii) tends to reak havic on the electronic parts.
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Old Jul 25, 2002 | 11:06 AM
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as far as replacing just the pin, there is a small clip that holds the pin into the connector, you have to pull that down and the pin will slide out.

But because yours is all burnt I don't know if you'll be able to do that.
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Old Jul 25, 2002 | 11:09 AM
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Just looked again, burn is not too bad.
I see the clip. Which way does the pin slide out?

Can the cluster switch be taken apart to clean the switch contacts?
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Old Jul 25, 2002 | 11:12 AM
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Originally posted by downwinddave
Just looked again, burn is not too bad.
I see the clip. Which way does the pin slide out?

Can the cluster switch be taken apart to clean the switch contacts?
slides out the wire side.

I have never tried to take a switch apart, since the were so easy to get I have always just replaced them.
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Old Aug 9, 2002 | 03:28 AM
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Just to let anyone know.
I cleaned up the harness, replaced the switch with a used one.

Lights work except for head lights will not stay on high. Ordered new CPU board.

Have a used harness to replace the old one.
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Old Aug 15, 2004 | 12:58 AM
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Hey guys, i had the same problem with my tail lights and thats what it was. Anyway i got a picture of it as it seems some people aren't really geting at what it is...

http://www.inetgenesis.com/~bdean/im...x7/problem.jpg

sorry its a little blurry, but you get the idea.
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