2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

OMP disabling and oil premix set it straight

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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 08:13 PM
  #1  
capn's Avatar
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OMP disabling and oil premix set it straight

hey all

i have been reading through the 2nd gen archives and seeing the LONG write up on premixing im still confused so can someone lay them straight for me? like:

1.in an 86 rotary the tank is a 16 gal so how much 2 stroke oil is need?

2. what kind of 2 stroke oil is best?

3. what type of OMP does the 86 have?

4. how do i disable it?
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 08:18 PM
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Its mechanical, and its less likely to go out than an s5 one. you can buy premix kits, I know Pettit sells one.
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 08:21 PM
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1) if you want something around a 100:1 ratio, and you're putting 16 gal in the tank, use 20 oz. of premix (1.25 oz per gal- 1.28 oz per gal would be exactly 100:1)
2) General consensus is any two-stroke oil with the TCW3 rating (for good dispersion in the fuel, and ash content)
3) Mechanical- the entire external OMP system is easily removable with the TB/ upper intake manifold off. You will need 4 bolts to plug the oil metering nozzle locations (available at Mazdatrix), and a block-off plate for the metering pump location
4) see #3
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 08:27 PM
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Re: OMP disabling and oil premix set it straight

Originally posted by capn
hey all

i have been reading through the 2nd gen archives and seeing the LONG write up on premixing im still confused so can someone lay them straight for me? like:

1.in an 86 rotary the tank is a 16 gal so how much 2 stroke oil is need?

2. what kind of 2 stroke oil is best?

3. what type of OMP does the 86 have?

4. how do i disable it?
1. about 1 oz per gallon (put in 2 stroke then fill with gas...nothing scientific)

2. anything that's labeled TCW-3 (Valvoline Multi Purpose 2 Stroke)

3. mechanical (another good thing about S4...you can just yank it off)

4. either put a block plate on it or remove intake manifold and install 4 bolts to replace the oil injectors
(don't ask what size threads..been too long ago)
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 09:09 PM
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I'm seriously doubting if my omp is working on my rebuild.

I think I am going to go striaight premix from now on and just leave the dead omp on.

I've heard that if you put a block off plate on you need to shim it with a dime or something. Not sure why though.
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 09:18 PM
  #6  
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You still haven't got that thing running right, Digi7ech?, LOL...Two dimes work well- they're to keep the drive gear from "slopping" around in there...When I did the rebuild, I just left the block-off plate & dimes alone, but removed the drive shaft from inside the front cover- I'm hoping the dimes are still in place, ha ha...
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 10:47 PM
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The car started up on it's own this weekend but I got a Vac leak which kills it off if under 2k rpm.

I was pulling 15hg at 1500 but now it's 10hg so I am going to find it this weekend.

I've put 8 miles on the engine in actual driving so far.
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 12:09 AM
  #8  
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I've got a question: If I premix as a supplement to my OMP, do I still use the same ratios, and does it still help with the carbon deposits? I hate having an s5.......I miss my s4's.....
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 12:16 AM
  #9  
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just get rid of the omp. its gay anyway. just my opinion. just block it off and put some 2 stroke twc3 in the tank. i beleive half a qaurt per fill up. or one oz per gallon
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 04:59 PM
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half of the premix i buy is over $8/qt
with filling the tank costing around 50cdn thats almost $55/week

I've left my omp on and once every few fills i'll add some premix just to help.
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 05:25 PM
  #11  
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From: Rapid City, SD
2: walmart supertech TC3W premix is $1.07/16oz. Works fine.
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