On my 89GXL...Wow that was easy...I will be rebuilding my next one to. I gave it a huge streetport on the 6th port plates so I will be dynoing it soon. Hopefully I want to hit 200rwp mark at 9500 rpms.

 

Did you do any other mods?

cool stuff....

 

f

 

10mm Wires Mag wires
S-AFC

 

Whats your fastest 1/4 mile with it without the new mods?? We might have our 13 sec n/a everyone is always talking about.

 

Well I did 1/8 mile when my flywheel was glazed. I got a 9.8 first run...On that run I let off and on the gas slightly to let it grab, and this is without heating the tires.

add 5 seconds to 9.8 and its around 14.9- 15 flat with bad clutch. Im guessing around 14.6-14.7 with an ACT and heating the tires.

Im going to carlsbad soon

 

If you are on street tires or a non drag radial heating the tires isnt going to help. Just give them a quick spin to get any gravel/dirt off them.

 

you did your own porting? was it difficult? i see these templates and things for sale....but they kind of scare me. i have a die grinder, and everything that would be needed, just wondering if i could do it myself

-Tommy

 

I'd like to know also, did you have a template or what?

 

What special tools do you need to rebuild a 13B?

 

Big *** puller for flywheel

Big *** socket for flywheel bolt, forgot the exact size.

 

Thanks!

 

U can pull the flywheel with a 2 1/8" socket, ratchet and a crowbar

 

HA!

I broke teeth off the ring-gear trying to use a socket and a "pursuader" bar.

Hit it with 140 psi and an impact.....spun right off!

2 1/8" is correct (54 or 57 mm, can't remember)

 

2 1/8 is 54mm...

 

All you need for the rebuild is a basic socket and rachet set from Sears. Like 50 bucks or something...And ofcourse something for the pulley and flywheel nut..Use an air tool ( rent one ) Some wierd RTV stuff..I can get the name if you like.

If your engine is in good condition before the rebuild all you will need is a Gasket kit , front and rear engine seals and extra corner seal springs... valued 300 totall for the whole rebuild that is if you didnt detonate or overheat your engine.

Electronic Micrometer and see if you apex seals are within mazda spec of 2.56 or something like that. Reuse them if they are without problems. Need a little speed sander to clean your housing water jackets where the water seals are. Some goop stuff to keep the water seals in when you lay the housing down on the side plate. bunch of other little things like that. All springs and side apex seal are most likely reusable without measuring. Clean everything in gasoline. Works like a solvent...Clean every little groove in the rotors so the apex seals will seat properly...Dont know what else to say. Dont do it by yourself without help because thiers some systematic ways of instalment that you wont naturaly think of the first time unless you have a video.

I had a guy do the street port but wached him and told him how far to go. The 6port housing does not have as much to port as the 4 port BUT wants you grind that bridge between the secondary (high,low) ports then that hole is Massive...and thiers still some to grind beyone that. Just look at mazdatrix website. They have an outline of the waterjackets beyone the steel plate ( cutaway view...If you want I can email anyone pics of the port job just before it was finished all the way...

We went so far that we almost had to scrap the side plate because the corner seal plastic piece actually was about to fall out into the runner...like 1mm or so. We used a small mirror to find that out...

 

Took around 7-10 hours totall not including removal of engine and reinstal. Just block taking it apart , cleaning and rebuild.

The removal from engine takes 2 guys. One inside the engine (me) another outside by strut. Both lift onto the strut with a napkin ( leave oil pan on) Then get out of engine and both lift from right thier. goes in the same way. Lol cant believe we both did alone without a hoist or cherry picker. It helps if both of you are decent strong. We can bench around 185-200 so were in that range.

 

Oops napkin? I meant towel or something so when you set the engine on the strup it doesent tear it up.

Complet removal of engine including wiring harness and manifolds probly takes me around 3 hours untill the engine is out of car. Then 7 hours max after that and another 3-5 hours to put back in. So in 13-15 hours im sure you can have your engine completly rebuilt considering you dont break anything and have to order parts. You might strip oil pan screws to so you might need a die or tap whatever.

Oh and you need corner seal plastic pieces that dont come with gasket kit. Might also need new oil rings for rotors but dont know about those. I bought new ones.

By the way I bought my S4 rotors from junk yard for 20 bucks and a good j-spec housing for 80

 

you may not want to hit 9500. You're pushing the flywheel into a caution zone, and the engine internals are really gonna hate you.
I think the stock ECU will fuel cut at ~8500 anyway.
BTW von, did you port the 4 ports at all, or just the aux's?

 

Yes I ported the primaries as well.

The flywheel is an a 12lb centerforce aftermarket aluminum flywheel so I dont think I will have a problem with it coming apart.

The engine internally will not like it I agree with you. But im not road racing. Drag only so I wont be at those rpms for to long.

 

u harden the stationary gear?

 

WOuld it be possible to port the engine without removing it from the car?

 

No. "Porting" involves removing material from within the engine (which requires disassembly).

Porting a rotary engine is not the same as porting say....the throttle body from a piston engine.

 

Congrats von, how about those pics of your port...kix_2@hotmail.com

 

You are pushing your luck turning 9500 RPM on a engine that has not been "raced clearanced". IMHO JOhn