3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

I'm Going Non Sequential HELP!!!!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-23-02, 09:40 AM
  #1  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
 
Conv.WS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Winchester, VA
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'm Going Non Sequential HELP!!!!

Hey I searched the forum for the non sequential conversion, and I'm not sure exactly about the blocker plates on the side and upper intake, because I might elect to go back to the sequential later. Can I just put blocking caps on the missing vacuum hose nipples instead of removing all the equipment not needed on the Non Sequential. I followed the Non sequential color line diagram, and I left the Fuel Pressure regulator solenoid in place. I came up with 4 solenoids that I could pull out so far. Does anyone have any other information for me that they think might help me out?
Thanks for all the information.
Ralph
Old 04-23-02, 09:43 AM
  #2  
Full Member

 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Were did u find the Non sequential color line diagram at?
Ive been asking for help but havent got any sofar.
Old 04-23-02, 11:05 AM
  #3  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
 
Conv.WS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Winchester, VA
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/turbosystem.jpg

This is the diagram I went by. I don't know where all the intake stuff went in this diagram, and also, there is a yellow vacuum hose coming from the Y-pipe that goes no where. I don't really get that. Any help with this diagram would be greatly appreciated though. Where did all extra stuff on the back side of the upper manifold go? did they just take it off and put blocker plates in or cap the vac nipples? Also in the diagram they show that the side intake manifold has the pressure chamber mounted where I have alot of vacuum related stuff. lol.... I think this was replaced with a blocker plate as well, but any help with this would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to blow this rebuilt engine just because I don't want to buy the solenoids to take it back to Sequential. Thanks guys,
Ralph
Old 04-23-02, 01:44 PM
  #4  
dear baby jesus...

 
Brad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: WA
Posts: 1,063
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
That diagram isn't for a non-sequential conversion. That diagram is for simplifying the stock sequential system (to have less solenoids, hoses etc.).

Read this page very thoroughly http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/non-sequential.html

It describes in great deal, step by step, on how to do the non-sequential conversion. IMO, you should just forget about keeping the ability to go back to stock sequential (the "poor mans" conversion). Just do it all the way, the right way.

Also, if emissions are not a concern, then you can remove ALL solenoids.
Old 04-23-02, 03:27 PM
  #5  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
 
Conv.WS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Winchester, VA
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the info. Are you telling me I will not need the Purge control, Wastegate control, and turbo Control, and turbo precontrol solenoids or just that I can take all the rat's nest solenoids out?
I need to do alot more research on this before I put anything back together. lol.... Any diagrams would help. I also have to read that page you posted carefully. does anyone else have any resources on the FD vacuum mess. LOL...
Ralph
Old 04-23-02, 03:33 PM
  #6  
thats not paint....

 
7-sins's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 2,231
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
There are really two ways to do the Non-sequential setup: The "Poor man's" and the professional way. They both work the same way, the pro. way just gets rid of all the useless vacuum lines and replaces the wire to hold the TCA door open with welds. The “Poor man’s” gives you more of a reversible route. Both work the same some just might consider the “Poor man’s” ghetto. Personally I did the “Poor man’s” because I was having boost issues so it was more of a diagnostic type thing, which turned into the way I ran my car because I enjoyed it.

Exact steps I took:

-I pulled off the Turbo Control Actuator – plugged the lines left
-Wired the door, which the TCA was connected to, open
-Pulled off Charge Control lines (this is the butterfly valve which opens a path to the 2nd turbo) - plugged the lines left
-Pulled off Turbo Pre-control lines - plugged the lines left (Did all this up by the Turbo Pre-control solenoid because it was easier)
-Pulled off Charge Relief vacuum line - plugged the lines left because I am using an upgraded Blow off valve. In your case just run a “T” fitting into the Air Bypass Valve’s vacuum line. That way the Charge Relief Valve will work in parallel with the Air Bypass Valve.
-Switched the Wastegate solenoid line to the Turbo Pre-Control solenoid (For boost control with the Power FC)
Old 04-24-02, 12:09 AM
  #7  
Yellow Dragon is no more

 
spyfish007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Ok here is what you need for full conversion so you can ditch the rats nest.

Take off the turbos and manifold.
Cut the door for turbo control out of the manifold. (note, cut from inside of manifold so there won't be a hole in the mafold!)
Weld the pre-control door shut
Remove the precontrol actuator
RECOMMENDATION: port wastegate!
Remove actuator from y-pipe and remove the valve inside the y-pipe. Fab a plate or plug the hole.
Remove EGR
Remove double throttle plates
Remove ACV and air pump (this includes solenoid mounted on ACV)
Remove rats nest
Remove hardlines that run up from turbos.
Cap all vacuum lines not accounted for elsewhere

You can leave the fuel pressure solenoid (orange) or you can take it out. It only helps during HOT HOT starts.

You can leave or take away the fuel purge system.
You can leave or take away the AWS system.

You will need boost control ... hopefully you have at least a PowerFC? If so then use one of the solenoids (wastegate or pre-control) to control you boost and switch the sequential mode off in the PFC. Else buy a boost controller.

I've left lots out ... there is plenty to do and a shop manual is a must at this point. I'd recommend this way or stay sequential. In the end your car will be easy to work on and it will run cooler and smoother.
Old 04-24-02, 05:23 AM
  #8  
Uncontrollable drifter

iTrader: (1)
 
dznutzuk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Greece
Posts: 629
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
[Weld the pre-control door shut

Which door are you talking about here? Weld it shut?
Old 04-24-02, 07:14 AM
  #9  
Senior Member

 
slopoke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: marietta GA
Posts: 362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
http://home.gci.net/~bob/nonseq_vac_lines.jpg hope this helps. read the one someone listed above very thouroughly, the scuderini racing non-seq one, and read it 20 times too.
Old 04-24-02, 07:29 AM
  #10  
HARRRRRRRRR

 
ttpowerd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Marietta GA
Posts: 1,858
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=49364

This is pretty informative as well.
Old 04-24-02, 09:46 AM
  #11  
Hey, where did my $$$ go?

 
SPOautos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Bimingham, AL
Posts: 4,413
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Also that link you posted earlier that was for the rats nest simplification is pretty good mod as well. I did it and have been happy with it. It doesnt really change the way the car drives it just removes a ton of **** from under the uim. With that set up I'm runing 15psi of boost (I've hit 16psi) without one line popping off (knock on wood). If a line did pop off I could fix it in 5 minutes.

If you think you'd want to stay seq I'd do the simplification. There is some good info on Rob Robinettes site. Which is at www.rx7turboturbo.com listed under the menu options you'll see Rob Robinettes archive.

Anyway, what every you decide, good luck

STEPHEN
Old 04-24-02, 11:58 AM
  #12  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
 
Conv.WS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Winchester, VA
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hey guys, I think I'm staying with the seq simplified for now.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/turbosystem.jpg
The orange line coming from the ypipe goes to nothing. I read that it goes to the upper manifold.
I just wanted to make sure I read everything right.
Also, I understand that the non colored line in the diagram doesn't need to be there with the
solenoid Valve Purge control. Can anyone give me any information on what this does, and why I don't need it?
I'm still learning, so please be patient. LOL....
I also am curious what makes this setup not run very well when it's cold. I currently have all solenoids installed except 2-4 with 1 being the very back rats next solenoid.
Basically any info you can give me would be great.
Thanks for all the great information so far though it's been a great resource for a blind mechanic forced into the rotary world. LOL.....,
Ralph
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ls1swap
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
17
06-03-24 03:25 PM
Snook
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
17
02-27-21 02:54 PM
HalifaxFD
Canadian Forum
126
05-09-16 07:06 PM
Snook
Single Turbo RX-7's
39
10-04-15 08:47 PM



Quick Reply: I'm Going Non Sequential HELP!!!!



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:39 PM.