Please help with Super-AFC tuning!!!
Please help with Super-AFC tuning!!!
Hello there fellow Rotorheads! I've just purchased the AFC and I need major help tuning the dam thing! Please help a young lad in tuning before the engine blows; I have the following mods:
Intake
midpipe
downpipe
cat-back x-zhaust
Greddy Pulley
**Any help will be appreciated**
Intake
midpipe
downpipe
cat-back x-zhaust
Greddy Pulley
**Any help will be appreciated**
I have a Super AFC and just put my car on the dyno last week. It seems that if you adjust the settings about 10% either up or down it makes the air/fuel ratio go up or down about 1 (you want the a/f ratio to be about 11:1-11.5:1 to be safe, 12.1:1 is for max power but one hickup in your fuel system or what ever and your gonna pop your engine).
Anyways I really suggest you to put your car on the dyno with a lambda meter. Its the only way to tune your car! Good luck
BTW: I created a little map of the stock PowerFC MAPS which should be some what near the stock ECU. Its at Wade's homepage right now, hopefully you can use it so that you dont go over 85% injector duty cycle. http://www.newwave.net/~flanham/wlan...mapcharts.html
He also has great info on fuel upgrades and other stuff.
check out http://www.newwave.net/~flanham/wlan.../3modrule.html for some air/fuel info numbers.
if you notice that someone had your same mods and he was pulling 10:1 with the stock ecu @10psi
Anyways I really suggest you to put your car on the dyno with a lambda meter. Its the only way to tune your car! Good luck
BTW: I created a little map of the stock PowerFC MAPS which should be some what near the stock ECU. Its at Wade's homepage right now, hopefully you can use it so that you dont go over 85% injector duty cycle. http://www.newwave.net/~flanham/wlan...mapcharts.html
He also has great info on fuel upgrades and other stuff.
check out http://www.newwave.net/~flanham/wlan.../3modrule.html for some air/fuel info numbers.
if you notice that someone had your same mods and he was pulling 10:1 with the stock ecu @10psi
Last edited by skunks; May 25, 2002 at 01:05 AM.
Hey skunk, thanks for the info but I am new the ecu game. I just needed to know exactly what settings for HI/Lo and all that good stuff. Thanks for nothing KevinK2, you've really helped.
for my high/low settings I have it set to about stock, 50/10 respectivly like it says on Apexi home page
http://www.apexi-usa.com/electronics...aloverview.asp
As for the actually settings for the high/low throttle, you must put it on the dyno, everyone's is different and you don't wanna use my settings, personnaly i am running non sequencial on a stock computer and i had my settings something like this for the high throttle settings "-10 for 1000rpm-5000rpm, 0 for 6000rpm +7 for 7000rpm, +10 for 8000rpm"
As for my low settings i just left them alone. Its true that you can lean out the low throttle to get a bit more mpg or power or what ever but why take the chance to detonate?
As for KevinK2 and pp13bnos, I was able to tune my fd to a perfectly straight 11.5:1 air/fuel ratio with out the use of a $1.5k ECU's, it only cost me 250 bucks. I also don't see you buying everyone PowerFC's or Haltec ECU's.
http://www.apexi-usa.com/electronics...aloverview.asp
As for the actually settings for the high/low throttle, you must put it on the dyno, everyone's is different and you don't wanna use my settings, personnaly i am running non sequencial on a stock computer and i had my settings something like this for the high throttle settings "-10 for 1000rpm-5000rpm, 0 for 6000rpm +7 for 7000rpm, +10 for 8000rpm"
As for my low settings i just left them alone. Its true that you can lean out the low throttle to get a bit more mpg or power or what ever but why take the chance to detonate?
As for KevinK2 and pp13bnos, I was able to tune my fd to a perfectly straight 11.5:1 air/fuel ratio with out the use of a $1.5k ECU's, it only cost me 250 bucks. I also don't see you buying everyone PowerFC's or Haltec ECU's.
Last edited by skunks; May 25, 2002 at 04:03 PM.
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Make sure the dyno has a lambda meter, its amazing how many people try to tune with out one (I actually know a couple of guys who have tried and failed!)
One hint you might wanna do is to turn up the fuel a little (i would say about 15%-20% from 6000rpm-8000rpm), you might also wanna turn it up that much down low too, its ok to run rich (it cost like 50 cents of gas) but if you run lean, one knock/ping/detonation and there goes your apex seals ($3k-$5k).
One hint you might wanna do is to turn up the fuel a little (i would say about 15%-20% from 6000rpm-8000rpm), you might also wanna turn it up that much down low too, its ok to run rich (it cost like 50 cents of gas) but if you run lean, one knock/ping/detonation and there goes your apex seals ($3k-$5k).
Its true, i don't have a power-fc, but i will soon. To be honest, the pettit unlimited that i have now works great, but i'm going upgraded twins/ported motor etc...I want to be able to take some ignition timing out of the motor, and have the ability to datalog. Just keep in mind, you are playing with fire...sooner or later you'll get burned. CJ
A S-AFC is recommended only for situations where you are reducing fuel, ie adding larger injectors. Keep in mind that the S-AFC is just 'fooling' the stock computer as to how to regulate fuel, and you can be much closer to activating the stock ecu's fuel cutoff.
It would probably be best to keep a lid on the boost, and invest in a fuel cut-defenser. All snobbery aside, a Power FC or Haltech is certainly a better solution for finicky rotories. Supra's have long lived off of 'wire-in' fuel/ignition/etc management because their engines have much more wiggle room when things are not tuned optimally. And these stand-alone's are certainly less expensive then a rebuild.
It would probably be best to keep a lid on the boost, and invest in a fuel cut-defenser. All snobbery aside, a Power FC or Haltech is certainly a better solution for finicky rotories. Supra's have long lived off of 'wire-in' fuel/ignition/etc management because their engines have much more wiggle room when things are not tuned optimally. And these stand-alone's are certainly less expensive then a rebuild.
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