Knight Sports ECU
Knight Sports ECU
Hi Guys!
I have just bought a Knight Sports ECU 4Beat for my JDM 1993 Fd.
Link: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MEWA:IT&ih=013
Can anyone give me some advice about it please? Any info regarding the ECU would be much appreciated!
Just for your info: My fd is running all stock except for a mid-pipe and a cat-back exhaust. Will the ecu work fine for my mods? (maybe its a bit late to ask this question but i think it was a bargain)
Many thanks in advance!!!
I have just bought a Knight Sports ECU 4Beat for my JDM 1993 Fd.
Link: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MEWA:IT&ih=013
Can anyone give me some advice about it please? Any info regarding the ECU would be much appreciated!
Just for your info: My fd is running all stock except for a mid-pipe and a cat-back exhaust. Will the ecu work fine for my mods? (maybe its a bit late to ask this question but i think it was a bargain)
Many thanks in advance!!!
The ECU will work fine for your mods. I suggest you get a front pipe (downpipe) or whatever other pipes you need to make a complete exhst system for your car. Then and Intake. Those seem to be the minimum needs for a tuned ecu. It is most likely tuned for boost up which is just increasing you peak boost through the ECU. It could also be tuned for a single turbo but without asking the seller what it was tuned for you really do not have any way of telling. I do not think getting the rom or flash tuned ecu's is a bad idea as long as you have a general idea of what they were tuned for or with. If you have no idea then I would say dont buy the ecu. The seller should know or have asked when buyig the ecu.
just took a look at the EBAY link. Looks like he covered most of the info you seemed to be looking for. you should be fine with intake and full exhaust. .9 bar should be very noticeable for you as well as safe.
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
as i understand it
basically you should always be using high octane fuel for a sports car like the FD, unless you always drive like a granny and short shift before the boost comes on
and if you are going to be increasing the boost above standard with this chip you should really really make sure you are using high oc. or you could damage the engine
eric e
basically you should always be using high octane fuel for a sports car like the FD, unless you always drive like a granny and short shift before the boost comes on
and if you are going to be increasing the boost above standard with this chip you should really really make sure you are using high oc. or you could damage the engine
eric e
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100 octane is high oc in Japan. Your ecu was 99.9% most likely to have been tuned on this octane. Nobody hear would risk tuning it on lower octane and those that tune with race quality octane fuels usually dont have a simple rom or flash tuned ecu.
Use 100 octane and you will be good to go.
Use 100 octane and you will be good to go.
Hi! I just installed the ecu last weekend. The car is working great and i'm really happy. However, the idle is very low and the car almost dies. (the revs are playing around 250 and 500) I adjusted the TPS but after a good run the idle went down again. Anyone knows why please ?
it could be due to the octane difference???
but i dont think it would make that kind of difference. Do you have a ground from the ecu to the chassis?
Try swapping back your old ecu real quick and see if the idle goes back to normal.
If the idle does go back to normal with your other ecu then obviously there is some sort of difference in the two ecu settings. If the idle was just sitting at 500 I would not worry about it but since you say it is boucing that makes me think there is something out of the ordinary going on.
First off try swapping your old ecu back in.
If it bounces with your old ecu back in then I would start looking into anything else you have done with the car recently or something that may have been knocked loose or unplugged accidentally and or not plugged back in.
Keep us updated please! I am eager to hear how it goes.
but i dont think it would make that kind of difference. Do you have a ground from the ecu to the chassis?
Try swapping back your old ecu real quick and see if the idle goes back to normal.
If the idle does go back to normal with your other ecu then obviously there is some sort of difference in the two ecu settings. If the idle was just sitting at 500 I would not worry about it but since you say it is boucing that makes me think there is something out of the ordinary going on.
First off try swapping your old ecu back in.
If it bounces with your old ecu back in then I would start looking into anything else you have done with the car recently or something that may have been knocked loose or unplugged accidentally and or not plugged back in.
Keep us updated please! I am eager to hear how it goes.
..sorry, i had a mistake before... what i adjusted was the srew on the throttle body NOT the TPS...
Thanks for your suggestion Circuit Theory. I try to plug in the old ecu back in and check again. The petrol that i'm using is 95RON. P.s there is no hesitation at no point and the car works great. The only problem is the idling after normal temp
Thanks for your suggestion Circuit Theory. I try to plug in the old ecu back in and check again. The petrol that i'm using is 95RON. P.s there is no hesitation at no point and the car works great. The only problem is the idling after normal temp
..some more info...when i adjusted the screw the idle seemed ok (750rpm) but after a while it advanced to 1000rpm. Then i adjusted it again and remained steady 750rpm. However, when i pressed the accellerator paddle and left to idle again, the idle was bouncing again. I also tried to unplug the air pump to see any difference but to no result. I also tried to take off the stock airfilter but nothing.....
Now chemistry has never been my strong point but*...
Japanese high occu is, iirc, ~96 MON, which = ~106 RON. Quite a difference from 95. The KS ecu is probably quite rich though - they tend to run generic ecus like this on the safe side - for obvious reasons.
I wouldn't touch one of these with a ten-foot pole - even in Japan. Real-time tuning FTW!
* feel free to correct
Japanese high occu is, iirc, ~96 MON, which = ~106 RON. Quite a difference from 95. The KS ecu is probably quite rich though - they tend to run generic ecus like this on the safe side - for obvious reasons.
I wouldn't touch one of these with a ten-foot pole - even in Japan. Real-time tuning FTW!
* feel free to correct
Hi Guys!
I have contacted Knightsports and they have been really helpful ! They told me that this ecu was programmed to work without the airpump. However, i disconnected the airpump and the problem still persisted. They also insisted not to use 95RON Unleaded petrol (like most of you guys suggested). They even gave me the spec of the car that it was installed in.
Now they are suggesting to send them the ecu and have it re-programmed to my spec.
I re-installed the stock ecu and everything is back to normal.
Thanks for all your support guys!! Thanks to you, i was really cautious in the process.
I have contacted Knightsports and they have been really helpful ! They told me that this ecu was programmed to work without the airpump. However, i disconnected the airpump and the problem still persisted. They also insisted not to use 95RON Unleaded petrol (like most of you guys suggested). They even gave me the spec of the car that it was installed in.
Now they are suggesting to send them the ecu and have it re-programmed to my spec.
I re-installed the stock ecu and everything is back to normal.
Thanks for all your support guys!! Thanks to you, i was really cautious in the process.





