cuting weight
cuting weight
I want to make my 88 fc as light as posibul. I already have the whole intearear striped from the front seats back,I removed all unnecisery systems and parts in the engine bay and in the front of the car before I put the engine in.But I want to make it even lighter so what are some good ways to make it even lighter.like parts to remove things to cut out,and the whole rear suspention is really heavy how can I make that lighter?
Buy one of my 15lb fiberglass and lexan hatches, stock one weighs 57lbs. Make sure you have an aluminum hood or I also have fiberglass hoods that fill in the headlight stuff in one piece.
Here is one of my threads just hitting one topic: Lightweight doors. I used the search function and typed in "lightweight".
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=lightweight
On my car, (a non-street legal car) the basic stuff has been removed: AC, PS, Cruise control, alot of blockoff plates. Tow hooks under car (4), spare tire, all emissions crap, straight pipe side exit exhaust, gutted doors/mirrors (see above thread), gutted most things under dash (hvac stuff), gutted metal under dash, trimmed emissions harness, trimmed various body harness, trimmed sunroof, removed all tar in cabin, and trimmed useless studs and removed useless bolts.
Thats all I remember having done.
Some other things that need to get done:
Build plexiglass rear hatch, plexiglass side windows, lightweight rims, gut hood under-stucture, and most importantly, go on a diet. I could lose an easy 20lbs to 30lbs.
My weight goal is around 2000lbs race ready. My 10th AE weighed around 2700lbs 100% stock, and after dropping a few pounds, I got it down to 2525lbs still with a full stock looking interior and exterior.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=lightweight
On my car, (a non-street legal car) the basic stuff has been removed: AC, PS, Cruise control, alot of blockoff plates. Tow hooks under car (4), spare tire, all emissions crap, straight pipe side exit exhaust, gutted doors/mirrors (see above thread), gutted most things under dash (hvac stuff), gutted metal under dash, trimmed emissions harness, trimmed various body harness, trimmed sunroof, removed all tar in cabin, and trimmed useless studs and removed useless bolts.
Thats all I remember having done.
Some other things that need to get done:
Build plexiglass rear hatch, plexiglass side windows, lightweight rims, gut hood under-stucture, and most importantly, go on a diet. I could lose an easy 20lbs to 30lbs.
My weight goal is around 2000lbs race ready. My 10th AE weighed around 2700lbs 100% stock, and after dropping a few pounds, I got it down to 2525lbs still with a full stock looking interior and exterior.
Do this to the sun roof if you have one...
Removes the steel sun roof panel, complete heavy *** steel rail system, and cut out frame tack welded to roof. Then fit a lexan or plexi glass to roof. Easily drops 50 pounds for close to free...

Removes the steel sun roof panel, complete heavy *** steel rail system, and cut out frame tack welded to roof. Then fit a lexan or plexi glass to roof. Easily drops 50 pounds for close to free...

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To make one yourself you just need to make a mold off the stock frame, make a pattern off the stock glass, make a frame, attach lexan. OK, so I left a few tricks and tools out to keep it short but it's a time consuming process, not really tricky if you've done fiberglass work.
well I will probably buy one of those hatches off of you in the future dont have the money right now just got a job.and does the sun roof assembuly realy weigh 50 pounds holy ****.I will deffinetly get rid of that.but I dont think I want to put a peace of plexy glass on there that would get to hot in the summer I would like to find a way to make the sun roof detachabul without the rail system.
The sunroof and associated parts (motors, rails, electrical) do have some significant weight to them...I'm not positively sure how much though. Maybe I will weigh the components when I get home from work.
On my sunroof hatch, I've removed all the rails, electrical, and motor, and went as far as cutting out all the support structure underneth and only the skin remains. Its currently screwed in place but I plan on attaching a permanent hinge on the forward side so the hatch can lift up a couple of inches from the back to help with venting hot air/smoke from burnouts.
On my sunroof hatch, I've removed all the rails, electrical, and motor, and went as far as cutting out all the support structure underneth and only the skin remains. Its currently screwed in place but I plan on attaching a permanent hinge on the forward side so the hatch can lift up a couple of inches from the back to help with venting hot air/smoke from burnouts.
No, that is my fiberglass frame, weighs about 4 lbs. When that pic was taken I hadn't installed the three dzus fasteners across the bottom/back. If you look closely at the corners you'll see holes, also one right in the middle.
The stock frame weighs about 17 lbs, the problem is all the weight is up at the top by the hinges in order to handle the weight of the glass.
The stock frame weighs about 17 lbs, the problem is all the weight is up at the top by the hinges in order to handle the weight of the glass.
No, that is my fiberglass frame, weighs about 4 lbs. When that pic was taken I hadn't installed the three dzus fasteners across the bottom/back. If you look closely at the corners you'll see holes, also one right in the middle.
The stock frame weighs about 17 lbs, the problem is all the weight is up at the top by the hinges in order to handle the weight of the glass.
The stock frame weighs about 17 lbs, the problem is all the weight is up at the top by the hinges in order to handle the weight of the glass.
Great work on that hatch. A++
Heat will make it gummy but you can scrape it out when its soft. When I lived in Ohio I would just let the car sit outside on a freezing cold night and hit the stuff with a ballpeen hammer and it will come off in big pieces. Now that I live in Florida I have to use dry ice.



