Running VERY rich
#1
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Running VERY rich
Just a quick update on my car, to prove I do work on it once in a while
I got the car running after putting in NA sparkplugs (seems the NEW turbo plugs were crap, probable because of me drowning them in fuel a few times too often). It idles at 900-1000rpm nowadays, and idling seems rather smooth once it's warmed up. I don't have any emission controls or BAC etc anymore, so I'm more then happy the damn thing starts withing a few seconds anyway.
What I don't like is that it will probable use a gastank of fuel just to get out of the street. It smells like running rich, and it's constantly showing max. numbers on the OXY-logger of the Wolf. Of course that's only a stock O2 sensor and not a wideband, but it should mean something. It'll make boost and respond to throttle inputs, but not the way it should. And it sounds like a freaking diesel engine from a train or something. Man, it's loud and not "racy".
I was thinking about the map settings first, but with injection times going down really far it didn't better too much. So I reckon fuel pressure could be the cause.
I'm using an SX pump (the big ones) but just the stock regulator, could this harm?
Maybe someone can tell me what he has done when running a TII without any solenoids/controls/BAC... Because of this the FPR is not connected the way it's supposed to be, but some told me it's ok if you just make sure there's a "boost" line from the manifold to the FPR???
In a few weeks I'll make a few pics and a videoclip of the running car.
I got the car running after putting in NA sparkplugs (seems the NEW turbo plugs were crap, probable because of me drowning them in fuel a few times too often). It idles at 900-1000rpm nowadays, and idling seems rather smooth once it's warmed up. I don't have any emission controls or BAC etc anymore, so I'm more then happy the damn thing starts withing a few seconds anyway.
What I don't like is that it will probable use a gastank of fuel just to get out of the street. It smells like running rich, and it's constantly showing max. numbers on the OXY-logger of the Wolf. Of course that's only a stock O2 sensor and not a wideband, but it should mean something. It'll make boost and respond to throttle inputs, but not the way it should. And it sounds like a freaking diesel engine from a train or something. Man, it's loud and not "racy".
I was thinking about the map settings first, but with injection times going down really far it didn't better too much. So I reckon fuel pressure could be the cause.
I'm using an SX pump (the big ones) but just the stock regulator, could this harm?
Maybe someone can tell me what he has done when running a TII without any solenoids/controls/BAC... Because of this the FPR is not connected the way it's supposed to be, but some told me it's ok if you just make sure there's a "boost" line from the manifold to the FPR???
In a few weeks I'll make a few pics and a videoclip of the running car.
#2
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Originally Posted by rotary emotions
Because of this the FPR is not connected the way it's supposed to be, but some told me it's ok if you just make sure there's a "boost" line from the manifold to the FPR???
that should work.
Get some FP gauge, "meten is weten"
have you checked the return line is not clogged? I thought the car was running already........or does my memory play tricks with me?
#3
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It had been running before, but somehow it stopped doing so. Turned out plugs were not firing properly. After changing them and checking the timing I give it another try. Right now it will start fairly easy, but seems to run too rich.
As for the vacuum: shouldn't it read "positive pressure" (aka "boost" ) on a turbo engine? When reading "negative pressure" (aka "vacuum") it actually runs completley screwed up. Since it needs to now the pressure to increase fuel pressure under boost this can't be a vacuum line can it? I was told to use the same point for the FPR as for the MAP sensor (which sure must be "boost" and not vacuum). At several points at the plenum there's vacuum, and at some boost, depending on where the openings (most are capped off anyway) are.
Any way to check an O2 sensor, btw?
As for the vacuum: shouldn't it read "positive pressure" (aka "boost" ) on a turbo engine? When reading "negative pressure" (aka "vacuum") it actually runs completley screwed up. Since it needs to now the pressure to increase fuel pressure under boost this can't be a vacuum line can it? I was told to use the same point for the FPR as for the MAP sensor (which sure must be "boost" and not vacuum). At several points at the plenum there's vacuum, and at some boost, depending on where the openings (most are capped off anyway) are.
Any way to check an O2 sensor, btw?
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no, idle you should see -12 psi or lower towards the -20 psi. the lower the better.
above 0 is nonsense because the turbo would generate pressure in the system.
0 means vacuumleak somewhere.
above 0 is nonsense because the turbo would generate pressure in the system.
0 means vacuumleak somewhere.
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Sensor reads in BAR (psi is for those who think center of the universe is in the USA j/k)
But if it'd be vacuum at idle, wouldn't it become boost at throttle? When connected to the other ports it had a negative reading at idle (all ports have O when engine in shut off, which seems logic), which become more negative when rpm was rising. It actually meant I couldn't run the MAP sensor from there, as it'd "think" the ignition had to be advanced (as on NA cars) and started to misfire. When connected to the port that reads boost when RPM is higher, it will have "BOOST: 0.1" on the display. When pressure becomes negative the display automaticly shows "VAC: ..". If I understand you correctly it should read VAC at idle and BOOST when the turbo comes in???
Of course it's not impossible there's a vacuum leak somewhere. Maybe I should try to find that out first. Thanks for the help, now if you can tell me what the idle vacuum values should be, in bar, I'd be more than thankfull Otherwise I'll have to search for a conversion table.
But if it'd be vacuum at idle, wouldn't it become boost at throttle? When connected to the other ports it had a negative reading at idle (all ports have O when engine in shut off, which seems logic), which become more negative when rpm was rising. It actually meant I couldn't run the MAP sensor from there, as it'd "think" the ignition had to be advanced (as on NA cars) and started to misfire. When connected to the port that reads boost when RPM is higher, it will have "BOOST: 0.1" on the display. When pressure becomes negative the display automaticly shows "VAC: ..". If I understand you correctly it should read VAC at idle and BOOST when the turbo comes in???
Of course it's not impossible there's a vacuum leak somewhere. Maybe I should try to find that out first. Thanks for the help, now if you can tell me what the idle vacuum values should be, in bar, I'd be more than thankfull Otherwise I'll have to search for a conversion table.
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1 brap ... ehhh ... bar = 14.5 psi
stock TII should have 6 psi when wot. a TII with 147k km on the counter has -12 psi @ idle, don't know what a stock, standard and new TII should have when @ idle.
stock TII should have 6 psi when wot. a TII with 147k km on the counter has -12 psi @ idle, don't know what a stock, standard and new TII should have when @ idle.
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That means 0.7 bar at the regulator vacuum line, right? When you rise the RPM's, does it create more vacuum, or less? Sorry for my stupidness, but I'm just trying to make sure I get things right
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So if I'm understanding this correct, I should NOT run the MAP sensor line (which acts as boost meter for the display) and the FPR vac. line from the same source? Everyone said I should do it that way, that's why I had it connected like this. Since the MAP needs to know pressure from the turbo, it'll need to stay where it is now, but the FPR needs another line then. Any idea where would be best Higgi? I'm assuming some of your cars/friends cars will be running with the emission stuff removed?
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for FPR, we are using line from side of LIM, no other stuff on it, just FPR
for MAP on stock cars, we use nipple on UIM and hook up BOV and pressure sensor to it (it changes a reading a bit, but we had no issues with it
on my car, i have FD UIM and a lot of sources for vacuum, each thing gets own vac line
for MAP on stock cars, we use nipple on UIM and hook up BOV and pressure sensor to it (it changes a reading a bit, but we had no issues with it
on my car, i have FD UIM and a lot of sources for vacuum, each thing gets own vac line
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Aha, that sounds like something I can give a try. Bit too busy to work on the car right now, but I shall see how it works this weekend.
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