I have finally decided to install my Wolf 4.0 and wanted to know if anybody else has one and how it went. I have a wolf 3.0 so hopefully the switch will be easy, and did your maps switch over easy? What do you need a lab top for?
Gary
Wolf 4.0
XS T04S

 

Gary,you dont need that wolf 4.0,thats just gonna get you in trouble

Dude,you gonna be ready to dyno you're load with me soon?

Dude,call me asap sucka,you got my number!!!!

 

Hi
I have a Wolf ver3.0 that i would like to fit on a 93 twin turbo RX7 . Would you possibly have a wiring diagram to install it.I would like to know how the crank trigger/s is set up aswell as the coils.
Any help would be appreciated !!!!

 

The maps should switch over easily, but you'll probably have to enter them in from a printout. The Wolf 3D 4.0 has adjustments every 125 RPM, as opposed to 500 RPM with 3.0. I heard that you can switch to every 500 if you don't want to do as much fine tuning. Talk to wayenspeed about it. He was running one in his car.

 

I have a V4.X in my car. I am not sure what Version it is now. Before it had it's last upgrade it was a V4.2 now it is something higher.

You need the laptop for the best tuning of your car. There are a lot of features that are not accessable using the hand controller.

I didn't have any maps to switch over so I can't answer the question. There will be a lot of new stuff which you will need to set up anyway, especially in the area of idle control.

All in all I am very happy with my Wolf. There have been a few little things along the way which have been a bit annoying, especially in the area of idle control, but a lot of this has to do with it being a new product and working out how best to set it up. On more than one occasion my mechanic has had the guys at Wolf down at his workshop to help him set up some of the idle control stuff on my car.

 

I was thinking about selling my 3.0 and getting a 4.0, but I finally got my 3.0 tuned the way I want.

 

:lol You say that like it is a bad thing!
If the old Wolf is running the car really well then you don't need the new one. The new one does look nicer though.

You can still upgrade pretty easily later on when they bring out even more features. I believe they are working on traction control among other things at the moment.

 

I was thinking about waiting a while. Who needs traction control? Spinning tires is fun.

 

http://www.wolfems.com.au/images/W3dv3_0manual.pdf

 

No, the maps will not switch over because the 4.0 has an improved TPS which will change your load bands (for the better). However, you could print out the 3.0 map and use it as a reference for the rpms. The good thing is that the 4.0 ECU will plug right into the 3.0 harness, so you can change out the ECU in seconds unless you were using one of the few pins which were changed between versions (see the 4.0 Installation Manual for details). There are actually a few different resolution options from the software, and the hand controller has less resolution so that it doesn't take you all week to program map changes.

I'll settle for datalogging.

 

After I installed my To4s the wolf 3.0 seems to run fairly well, better than before, don't know why, but dont care its running better. I still have problems with missing when the lights are on, and I have tried adjusting the voltage compensation. As far as waiting to install the wolf, I have had the 4.0 for 3 or 4 months now, I can't wait any longer! After reading the manual for the 4.0, it seems somewhat complicated. Thanks for everybody that responsed to by thead. I'm also trying to get a cheap labtop for the car, hopefully that will make tuning easier. It will be install this weekend, and sunday ryan and myself are going to street tune it so I'll let you guys know how it goes.
Gary
Wolf 4.0
XS T04S

 

Are your headlight wires anywhere near your ignition wiring?

 

I'm just looking forward to seeing what all the new 4.0 features are ...

 

Me to!
They are working on it, but I haven't got many details yet. ie. whether it is full datalogging or the old max value type. My mechanic went to a Wolf seminar 2 weeks ago where they were going to be told about all the plans for the Wolf 3D. I haven't spoken to him since he went but I will try and get down there tomorrow and see whether he has any more info.

Since the last upgrade I have got a couple more screens which includes things like SyncX and Loud values. I don't even know what they mean. I was hoping that the loud value would let me change the volume of the engine. :lol
I think I have some kind of datalogging now, but it is only for the Aux outputs, but I can't understand what that means either because it is not in the manual.

 

James,

how much do you reckon Pete would charge for a Drive in Drive out installation/tune etc...... It wouldn't need much tuning....no To4 or anything....

just a rough estimate...trying to weigh up my options...

 

I think that it would be pretty close to $2000. The Wolf itself is most of that ($1450, I think). Mine was a bit more because it I have a Series 5 which has electric OMP which meant Pete had to make somethig up to control it and I had to have an M&W Igniter because the Wolf can't control the Series 5 trailing coils. The series 4 should be fine with both of these.

 

Why can't it control S 5 trailing coils? I thought they were the same as S 4.

 

I don't know why. There must be a difference.
Have a read of the V3.1 manual where it talks about 'rotary mode'. It says it there.

 

Ok, I'll check it out. Thanks.

 

This is what the Wolf manual says:
Mazda Mode refers to the coil packs used on 13B powered RX7’s from 1986-’88. These are also known as ‘Series 4’ and ‘Second Generation’ RX7’s. One igniter
drives a dual output coil for the leading sparkplugs, while the second igniter drives two individual coils for the trailing sparkplugs. Series 5 igniters are not compatible with the Wolf3D.

STD Mode refers to the ignition output of the Wolf3D driving 3 individual igniters. One igniter drives a dual output coil for the leading sparkplugs, while two more
igniters drive two single output coils for the two trailing sparkplugs. This method is preferred by us for high performance applications. Refer to Section 8 for more information on Mazda wiring details.

I'm pretty sure that my trailing coils and igniters are Series 5, but I'm using Mazda mode.

 

I'd love to know about the post-setup tuning process on the V4 with a laptop. I'm frustrated right now trying to tune the thing by twiddling one map point at a time and eventually tuning myself out of any reasonably functioning map. Yes, datalogging would be awesome, but maybe that's not too hard if you can write an app to suck numbers from the serial line while the car's running?

Anyhow, I'd love to get the V4 and some boost control to boot.

Dave

 

One thing that helped me with V3 was to print out my map and look at all of the points at once. That gave me a general idea of how things were setup.

 

Man you guys have been talking while I was gone. To respond to the data logging I have not found it, as for as tuning it doesnt seem that hard. The old and new wolf have simalar styles. It really takes two to tune, but you can do it my yourself. The tools I use is my ears (listen to the motor) o2 sensor (it will get you close enough), and an exhaust gas sensor. If you use your brakes you can keep the motor at the load you are tuning and adjust by sound and smoothness, also keep an eye on your o2 gauge. I had my car running in about 2 hours, the higher load points you need someone to do the tuning while you drive. This wolf is the ****, it has more fine tuning features than I know what to do with. It does help to print your maps every time you go out tuning, also do not adjust fuel by the individual points, it will confuse you. If you go to ..fuel map...than load band move...you can adjust the hole load band..from 1000rpm to 8000rpm the fuel should be the same on that load band. After your done take the map to your pc and smooth out the fuel curve. The only problem I have not figured out, is when the car is cold or has not been run for hours it will not run with out missing, backfiring, or dying. I have adjust the cold start to the fullest and even turned up the fuel till it wouldnt run.......but after 15 minutes it runs perfect.......I know its not the engine temp because the engine get to 85 in 8 to 9 minutes, so I know its warmed up..........This dam problem is driving me to drink.....If anybody has any thoughs....also my wires do run next to my lights, I'm trying to move my crane.

 

How's your fuel pressure?

 

Fuel pressure is fine, it sits at 38 psi at idea. I have an upgraded Walboro pump (sorry for the spelling errrors) and seems to be perfectly fine. Thanks to Ron Forman and the guys in Australia I fixed my missing problem, it was the trigger. So i'm back to tuning. Ryan and I are dyno tuning it next Sunday so I'll let you guys know how it went.
Gary
Wolf 4.0
XS T04 S