PWM E-Fan made easy
06-22-18, 11:03 AM
#1
PWM E-Fan made easy
Hey guys,
I recently was on the lookout for an E-Fan to replace my rather poor "16in no shroud ebay fan" that I was rocking for the last 4 years. The Taurus and Villager's E-fan being hard to find nowaday, I needed to find something else.
Also I wanted to ditch the on/off system for something smoother like PWM.
So going around in the junkyard a friend of mine pointed out a 2011 Hyundai Elantra's E-Fan. I pulled it out, checked measurement and it was almost a perfect fit with a bit of triming.
It is a normal 2 wire fan that has some kind of heat resistor speed controller which we don't need and is in a part of the shroud that we need to trim anyway.
Now for the PWM part, I use an MS3Pro ECU but any ECU that can configure an output as PWM and create a curve will be able to do it.
So I picked up a PWM module that you can easily find ON the fan assembly of many Volvo between 2000-2004 and some Ford Fusions until 2010 or so too. Do not confuse it with the relay module that some use for 2 speed fans off of some Volvo. Like I said its ON the fan assembly. So I sniped off the wires and unscrewed the module using a torx bit.
***When working with an E-fan make sure battery is disconnected and that you stay aware of where your fingers are...not in the fan***
The module itself is really simple, 2 wires on one side and 3 on the other side. The side with 2 wires goes to the fan, the other side 2 thick wire goes to battery and the thin wire to your PWM output from the ecu. Fan side wires are Red and Black so it should match the fan wires, for the battery side I could'nt find any scematics for polariry but here's a tip: When the fan is hooked up to the module and you hook up the module to a battery it should not do anything since there is no PWM signal yet. If you hook it up backward the fan will simply start spinning backward.
When everything is hooked up, the last step is to configure your ECU output with a PWM curve vs CLT and you should be all set.
Don't forget to monitor your CLT and make adjustment to your curve accordingly. I won't be responsible of any damage due to overheat if you don't take the time to make sure the fan setup works good.
I know its a lot of text but pictures will be added as well as schematics soon.
I recently was on the lookout for an E-Fan to replace my rather poor "16in no shroud ebay fan" that I was rocking for the last 4 years. The Taurus and Villager's E-fan being hard to find nowaday, I needed to find something else.
Also I wanted to ditch the on/off system for something smoother like PWM.
So going around in the junkyard a friend of mine pointed out a 2011 Hyundai Elantra's E-Fan. I pulled it out, checked measurement and it was almost a perfect fit with a bit of triming.
It is a normal 2 wire fan that has some kind of heat resistor speed controller which we don't need and is in a part of the shroud that we need to trim anyway.
Now for the PWM part, I use an MS3Pro ECU but any ECU that can configure an output as PWM and create a curve will be able to do it.
So I picked up a PWM module that you can easily find ON the fan assembly of many Volvo between 2000-2004 and some Ford Fusions until 2010 or so too. Do not confuse it with the relay module that some use for 2 speed fans off of some Volvo. Like I said its ON the fan assembly. So I sniped off the wires and unscrewed the module using a torx bit.
***When working with an E-fan make sure battery is disconnected and that you stay aware of where your fingers are...not in the fan***
The module itself is really simple, 2 wires on one side and 3 on the other side. The side with 2 wires goes to the fan, the other side 2 thick wire goes to battery and the thin wire to your PWM output from the ecu. Fan side wires are Red and Black so it should match the fan wires, for the battery side I could'nt find any scematics for polariry but here's a tip: When the fan is hooked up to the module and you hook up the module to a battery it should not do anything since there is no PWM signal yet. If you hook it up backward the fan will simply start spinning backward.
When everything is hooked up, the last step is to configure your ECU output with a PWM curve vs CLT and you should be all set.
Don't forget to monitor your CLT and make adjustment to your curve accordingly. I won't be responsible of any damage due to overheat if you don't take the time to make sure the fan setup works good.
I know its a lot of text but pictures will be added as well as schematics soon.
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