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Anyone with a 600+ HP Setup???

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Old 12-24-01, 10:24 AM
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Originally posted by Black680hp7 We do not sell direct to people, you need to go through an AEM dealer.Jason.
On your web site I could not find an e-mail address to contact your company. I could not find a list of dealers. Could you provide me with that information?????

Also when will the FD version be available. I need a hard date not a quesstimate. If not in my time frame I'd like to know soon as I will go with Haltech if not soon enough for me. I can wait, but not forever.

Like I said before it looks like a great state-of-the-art product.

Also how do you become a dealer, I know a RX-7 performance shop that might be interested?

Ken
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Old 12-24-01, 10:46 AM
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Originally posted by Black680hp7
Yes, you can buy a haltech for $1200.00, but you have to wire the car, change sensors, and you still have no oil metering pump control, dos based software, no traction control, no nitrous control, no boost control, no knock control, and I could go on and on. Our unit will retail for $1863.00 complete, good luck getting anything that will do all of that for anywhere close to $2k, let alone under $2k.

Jason.
I have a 87 turboII setup.
A couple of your options do not aply.

There are significant number of us that wired up the Haltech themselves including me.

Is this "complete" you mentioned include options above as well as plug and play?

I just want to keep this simple.
Is this $1863.00 unit a plug and play unit or a unit one will have to wire up and tune?
How much is a plug an play?
How much is a unit with the cheapest universal wiring?
1863 is much more than 1200.
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Old 12-24-01, 04:30 PM
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What do you know I just happen to be a AEM dealer.
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Old 12-24-01, 04:57 PM
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Originally posted by MeLoco What do you know I just happen to be a AEM dealer.
So then, when is it available for the FD. What can we expect for a cost for quantity 5??? or 10???

Ken
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Old 12-24-01, 06:05 PM
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Everything I've been told is the same thing Jason has already stated in this thread. it is supposed to be released in Jan. cost is around $1860 until I can get exact info from them I am not going to set any definate answers, I do not want to give any responses that may cause someone to be mislead(pricing,shipping,ect.)so as soon as I know that I have a product for sure in hand I will then figure something out.
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Old 12-24-01, 08:25 PM
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Originally posted by Black680hp7
Yes, you can buy a haltech for $1200.00, but you have to wire the car, change sensors, and you still have no oil metering pump control, dos based software, no traction control, no nitrous control, no boost control, no knock control, and I could go on and on. Our unit will retail for $1863.00 complete, good luck getting anything that will do all of that for anywhere close to $2k, let alone under $2k.

Jason.
a) even if it can handle running the OMP, I would remove the OMP and run premix - cause its better for the motor, fully syntethic engine oil isn;t ment to be combusted, 2 stroke oil is.

b) no traction control? ever heard of a brain connected to two feet, one goes on the clutch pedal the other goes on the accelerator pedal and ya find a happy madium between the two

c) No boost control? hmm i seem to have boost control with my E6K, i have a trim **** on the dash and a bleed valve in the engine bay.

d) If the tuner can tune then knock control would never function anyway. there was a REALLY good INDEPTH discussion about knock control on aftermarket efi systems on a mailing list about 2 weeks ago.

just my 2 cents worth on the matter
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Old 12-25-01, 09:45 AM
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a) even if it can handle running the OMP, I would remove the OMP and run premix - cause its better for the motor, fully syntethic engine oil isn;t ment to be combusted, 2 stroke oil is.

That is where you are wrong, sythetic oil burns cleaner than regular oil. And you can adjust how much oil is injected to the engine. With premix, you are stuck with a higher ratio than needed ant idle and light cruise.

b) no traction control? ever heard of a brain connected to two feet, one goes on the clutch pedal the other goes on the accelerator pedal and ya find a happy madium between the two

Obviously you have never been on a road course with alot of power. F1 guys use traction control and they are the best drivers in the world.


c) No boost control? hmm i seem to have boost control with my E6K, i have a trim **** on the dash and a bleed valve in the engine bay.

So, are you able to set your boost control to rux "x" boost in 1st gear, "y" boost in 2nd gear, "z" boost in 3rd gear, etc... You can with the AEM unit.


d) If the tuner can tune then knock control would never function anyway. there was a REALLY good INDEPTH discussion about knock control on aftermarket efi systems on a mailing list about 2 weeks ago.

Again, wrong! Gas isn't anywhere near consistant enough for precise tuning. Do you think the factories don't know how to tune a car? then why do they run knock sensors? Because there is NO guarantee of the gas you use from day to day. Ask any Really good tuner, and they will tell you they want knock control whenever possible.

Jason.



just my 2 cents worth on the matter

Last edited by Black680hp7; 12-25-01 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 12-25-01, 09:58 AM
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Originally posted by Black680hp7 bObviously you have never been on a road course with alot of power. F1 guys use traction control and they are the best drivers in the world. So, are you able to set your boost control to rux "x" boost in 1st ear, "x" boost in 2nd gear, "x" boost in 3rd gear, etc... You can with the AEM unit.

If the tuner can tune then knock control would never function anyway. there was a REALLY good INDEPTH discussion about knock control on aftermarket efi systems on a mailing list about 2 weeks ago.

Again, wrong! Gas isn't anywhere near consistang enough for precise tuning. Do you think the factories don't know how to tune a car? then why do they run knock sensors? Because there is NO guarantee of the gas you use from day to day. Ask any Really good tuner, and they will tell you they want knock control whenever possible.Jason.just my 2 cents worth on the matter [/B]
I'd like to see some in-depth documentation on this ECU for an FD. Looks like it has lot's of desierable features.

Ken
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Old 12-25-01, 11:12 AM
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IS the new aem ecu a GEMS unit.. I heard that aem bought out GEMS and now are selling their ECU's with the AEM name.. Whats the Deal Jason?

Oh and yes the haltech can give "x" boost in first gear and "y" and second, etc, etc. You can set boost maps....

Ask the F1 drivers and most will tell you they don't like the traction control...
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Old 12-25-01, 11:19 AM
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The ProEfi unit does have does look good for the money..
I downloaded the demo software from AEM:
http://www.aempower.com/ems.htm
Noticed it was in metric.
Can it be switched to standard(no big deal)?

It does seem to have more features than the E6K , WOLF 3D v4, ETC???
If this unit shakes out well with key players at the race track then this means the other companies got serious competition...
Still some of these features are not going to be used on many setups.
What feaures is being used on the 680hp setup?

Haltech e6k looks good for the money.
Tne new wolf 3D version 4 also looks good for the money..

Last edited by moespeed; 12-25-01 at 11:22 AM.
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Old 12-25-01, 12:32 PM
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IS the new aem ecu a GEMS unit.. I heard that aem bought out GEMS and now are selling their ECU's with the AEM name.. Whats the Deal Jason?

No, AEM didn't buy out GEMS, and NO Gems is not making the units for us, we merely liscense our "Base" software from there, our software is completely different, but based on the same software.


Oh and yes the haltech can give "x" boost in first gear and "y" and second, etc, etc. You can set boost maps....

Um, no you can't!

Ask the F1 drivers and most will tell you they don't like the traction control...

Um, only 1 F1 driver in the entire field, use to prefer not to use LAUNCH control (Jean Alesi who is now retired), but ALL of them use the traction control, and are now setting new lap records, with less tire because of it.

Jason.
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Old 12-25-01, 12:38 PM
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Noticed it was in metric.
Can it be switched to standard(no big deal)?

Yes, the user selects the units of measure

It does seem to have more features than the E6K , WOLF 3D v4, ETC???
If this unit shakes out well with key players at the race track then this means the other companies got serious competition...
Still some of these features are not going to be used on many setups.
What feaures is being used on the 680hp setup?

I use the shift light rpm set differently in each gear, boost control, nitrous control, warning lights, on board datalogging, wheel speed (Front and rear), 2 step, individual dylinder (rotor) fuel trim, individual cylinder (rotor) ignition trim, knock control (pulls timing and boost, and adds fuel), anti-lag, fan control, EGT feedback control, o2 feedback control, and I'm probably missing some things. But the less I have to do that the computer can do, the better.

Jason.
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Old 12-25-01, 03:35 PM
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Jason do your car a favor and add another SX pump.. You will need two to support 680 rwhp. You should also use -12 line from the tank to the pumps and -10 throughout. I work with High Hp motors all the time(Turbo Mustangs, camaro's, GN's, etc) and your at a point were fuel supply becomes a big issue and a single SX pump will not cut it. It simply can not supply enough volume at high pressure. On our cars they simply max out at around 500Hp. You should really use a Weldon or Aeromotive but since your already using SX and you seem to be attached to them you can get away with adding another one.


And YES you can have boost maps with the haltech...
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Old 12-25-01, 03:40 PM
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Originally posted by Black680hp7

That is where you are wrong, sythetic oil burns cleaner than regular oil. And you can adjust how much oil is injected to the engine. With premix, you are stuck with a higher ratio than needed ant idle and light cruise



Again, wrong! Gas isn't anywhere near consistant enough for precise tuning. Do you think the factories don't know how to tune a car? then why do they run knock sensors? Because there is NO guarantee of the gas you use from day to day. Ask any Really good tuner, and they will tell you they want knock control whenever possible.

Jason.



just my 2 cents worth on the matter
So now you are saying you know more than mazda do who have spent MILLIONS on development and testing who in their racing info about rotary's advise ya to ditch the OMP in favour of premix. i suppose you think stock 3 piece 2mm seals are a load of crap too............

This arguement about gas quality also came up in the big discussion we had, it was brought up by someone in the US, and the rest of us from NZ and Aus came to the conclusion that you guys in the US must get crap gas. one guy, i think he lived in the west indies there somewhere, said in all the years he had been tuning efi systems, which was somewhere around 10 years, he had never had a bad tank of gas.............
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Old 12-25-01, 03:41 PM
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I'm not partial to the sx pumps at all. I monitor my fuel pressure, and have a UEGO sensor in the car, every thing is fine at this point, when I need it, I will add the other pump. So far, there is still room in what I have.

As far as the Haltech and boost maps, how exactly do you change the boost pressure for each gear? All of the info I have does not show this.

Jason.
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Old 12-25-01, 03:49 PM
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So now you are saying you know more than mazda do who have spent MILLIONS on development and testing who in their racing info about rotary's advise ya to ditch the OMP in favour of premix.

Pre-mix works great, I have done this for years, but it is not IDEAL for a street car, at idle you are stuck at your pre-mix ratio (I typically use 100 to 1) which is way to strong for light loads. With the OMP you can change the ratio's depending upon load and rpm.

i suppose you think stock 3 piece 2mm seals are a load of crap too............

Nope, I still use 2mm seals.


This arguement about gas quality also came up in the big discussion we had, it was brought up by someone in the US, and the rest of us from NZ and Aus came to the conclusion that you guys in the US must get crap gas. one guy, i think he lived in the west indies there somewhere, said in all the years he had been tuning efi systems, which was somewhere around 10 years, he had never had a bad tank of gas.............

Well, I can't say that I have done much tuning over seas, but I have been tuning EFI for about 14 years now, and have seen a tone of cases where there has been "bad gas". If you are tuning on the edge, and using pump gas, you need a knock sensor. Even if you are using race gas, ask anyone who has been racing for any length of time, and they will tell you, that if they had good knock control they would have "saved" several engines. All that aside, how many people do you think that buy EFI systems are "Qualified tuners" not many! It is always good to have extra safe guards in the sytstem. I guarantee if you had one you would use it! Maybe not give it feedback control, but I know you would monitor the activity of the sensor.

Jason.
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Old 12-25-01, 04:03 PM
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Jason I also agree on using knock control. There's simply no way to tune to the max without one.

But i disagree on using the OMP.. Premix is the way to go. 2 stroke oil is much better the regular oil, there's no doubt about it.

I also find it hard to believe that your making 680hp to the wheels with one SX pump and you still have room to go.. This is very hard to believe. I have used these pumps and their not capable of handling this kind of horsepower. They simply CANNOT support the volume necessary. I understand that your monitoring the fuel pressure but if you don't have the volume you won't make the HP.

What does the rest of your fuel system consist of ?
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Old 12-25-01, 04:08 PM
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Your forgot to say how you can do boost per gear on the Haltech.

Jason.
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Old 12-25-01, 04:14 PM
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As for my fuel system, it's quite simple. The pump is about 12" from the fuel cell, I have 8 guage wire from the battery (which is about 10" from the pump) -10 teflon braided fuel line from the fuel cell to the pump through a filter, then on to the fuel rail where it splits to 2 -8 teflon braided line for each rail, -8 to the regulator (SX), then -8 to for the return. My pressure stays rock solid throughout the rpm range, and my a/f #'s also stay consistant. The key is making sure that under heavy load, you can maintain current and voltage at the pump. I know I am at the upper limits of the pump, however until I see a problem, I have no intentions of addressing it.

Jason.
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Old 12-25-01, 04:25 PM
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You can't do boost per gear but you can setup boost maps to give you more boost in higher load conditions which occur in the higher gears
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Old 12-25-01, 04:38 PM
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You can't do boost per gear but you can setup boost maps to give you more boost in higher load conditions which occur in the higher gears

Not even close to being the same thing, with good boost control, you will not get more load in higher gears. Hence no "x" boost in 1st gear "y" boost in 2nd gear, "z" boost in 3rd gear, ect.....

Jason.
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Old 12-25-01, 09:04 PM
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can run 3 stage boost control, 3 seperate maps, simply put a toggle switch on ya shifter and flick it to whatever position you want

thats wastegate spring boost, map 1 and map 2
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Old 12-25-01, 09:14 PM
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Originally posted by HWO
can run 3 stage boost control, 3 seperate maps, simply put a toggle switch on ya shifter and flick it to whatever position you want

thats wastegate spring boost, map 1 and map 2
Do FD's have gear switches for all five gears and reverse? You'd need that for differential boost settings, and if have to add them for the AEM computer you could also use them for the Haltech. I've only seen one vehicle with separate switches for every single gear, but until people get deep into modding Honda Passports we need not consider them.
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Old 12-25-01, 11:05 PM
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You don't need switches with our computer at all, with speed input (which the stock ecu has from the speed sensor) you can input gear ratios and the computer knows what gear you are in without any switches.
You can also have the boost come up by rpm in each gear. I.E. 1st gear 15 psi, 2nd gear start at 15 increase to 20 by 3rd gear switch, then start 3rd at 22, etc..

Jason.
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Old 12-26-01, 02:20 AM
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Which speed sensor would that be?

My car sure as hell dont have a speed sensor going to the now non existant stock ECU.

that speed sensor thing aisn't truely boost in gears now is it, how can it distingush between 8000rpm in 2nd gear which equates to around 115kph and 4000rpm in 4th gear which equates to the same speed?


Might work for FD's but what about people who dont have cars with factory speed sensors?
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