wiring your drift car the "right" way.
09-25-10, 10:51 PM
#26
Too Many Questions
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Ohms Law...
E=IxR
Voltage=Current x Resistance
This equation will aid in the decisions of which wire is too big or too small, how much power should go were...
This may save time on this stuff; or may cause utter chaos.
Voltage=Current x Resistance
This equation will aid in the decisions of which wire is too big or too small, how much power should go were...
This may save time on this stuff; or may cause utter chaos.
09-27-10, 03:24 PM
#27
Yep. And therein lies the problem. Too much resistance.
Aaron had a writeup on his site i never even looked at (too busy reading up on his na-t build and custom intake) discussing the essential grounding points.
1. Ecu ground that comes of the harness and bolts near the egr to the keg
2. Firewall to engine ground
3. The main ground that runs from the negative to the chassis to the starter
All of these are VERY ******* important and even if you add some bullshit grounds, it wont matter if all of these aren't addressed.
If you have your security alarm removed, it's good to jumper the starter cut relay as well. There is entirely too much useless cluttered crap scattered all over the place in these cars. The reason i put this thread up here vs race car's or general or whatever is because most of us who slide want a simple, no bullshit car that's easy to trouble shoot and keep off the jackstands. Missing events you were planning on going to because of some wires is a huge buzzkill. Having a no-frills and clean setup is something every one of us can benefit from and it doesn't cost alot of money. Maybe $300-500 to go all the way but worth every penny.
It's not directed at you. I'm giving you a hard time about the equips though. Lol.
A few links to good ****:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/7...kit-p-380.html
http://www.zippertubing.com/products.aspx
Aaron had a writeup on his site i never even looked at (too busy reading up on his na-t build and custom intake) discussing the essential grounding points.
1. Ecu ground that comes of the harness and bolts near the egr to the keg
2. Firewall to engine ground
3. The main ground that runs from the negative to the chassis to the starter
All of these are VERY ******* important and even if you add some bullshit grounds, it wont matter if all of these aren't addressed.
If you have your security alarm removed, it's good to jumper the starter cut relay as well. There is entirely too much useless cluttered crap scattered all over the place in these cars. The reason i put this thread up here vs race car's or general or whatever is because most of us who slide want a simple, no bullshit car that's easy to trouble shoot and keep off the jackstands. Missing events you were planning on going to because of some wires is a huge buzzkill. Having a no-frills and clean setup is something every one of us can benefit from and it doesn't cost alot of money. Maybe $300-500 to go all the way but worth every penny.
It's not directed at you. I'm giving you a hard time about the equips though. Lol.
A few links to good ****:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/7...kit-p-380.html
http://www.zippertubing.com/products.aspx
09-29-10, 03:04 AM
#28
Yay.
I had a fun weekend. Bought some 2awg o2 free, and a bunch of red and black 4awg wire with eyelet joints and whatnot.
I found out something fantastic. Our grounds in the fc that run from the battery and the starter are TAPED AND LOOMED with the cas wiring, and 12v+ on the drivers side of the bay. How awesome is that ****!? The two 4ga wires shown were my ground and power. I guess the ground got so hot it burned ALL the insulation off the entire length of the wire except for about 4" of wire coming off the top bolt starter ground. The main 12v is pictured below it (sorry, my camera takes good pics HALF the time) was fried down to bare wire 5" down. By some strange sort of luck, my car didn't explode and i didn't do serious damage to sensors/significant wiring. There are some damaged leads but they never melted down to bare wire. The melted ground insulation saw to that. It's caked all over two cas signal wires comming off the two white plugs near the brake master
My guess is the insulation became brittle and arcing occured between the thicker gauge power and ground wires causing this. I'm surprised but at the same time not really. Car is over 20 years old... However most of the main engine harness i've re-loomed and partially tucked was in really good shape. The injector harness plugs n flexies were trashed and the coolant sensorl on the waterneck had some funky **** going on with it but the wires themselves were still really flexible without cracks.
I had a fun weekend. Bought some 2awg o2 free, and a bunch of red and black 4awg wire with eyelet joints and whatnot.
I found out something fantastic. Our grounds in the fc that run from the battery and the starter are TAPED AND LOOMED with the cas wiring, and 12v+ on the drivers side of the bay. How awesome is that ****!? The two 4ga wires shown were my ground and power. I guess the ground got so hot it burned ALL the insulation off the entire length of the wire except for about 4" of wire coming off the top bolt starter ground. The main 12v is pictured below it (sorry, my camera takes good pics HALF the time) was fried down to bare wire 5" down. By some strange sort of luck, my car didn't explode and i didn't do serious damage to sensors/significant wiring. There are some damaged leads but they never melted down to bare wire. The melted ground insulation saw to that. It's caked all over two cas signal wires comming off the two white plugs near the brake master
My guess is the insulation became brittle and arcing occured between the thicker gauge power and ground wires causing this. I'm surprised but at the same time not really. Car is over 20 years old... However most of the main engine harness i've re-loomed and partially tucked was in really good shape. The injector harness plugs n flexies were trashed and the coolant sensorl on the waterneck had some funky **** going on with it but the wires themselves were still really flexible without cracks.
10-02-10, 05:42 PM
#29
Well, it's alive again. Still haven't gotten my **** from painless yet for the inside but w/e...
THICK motherfucking groundssssss.
Thick power wires and everything in the harness was given slack to allow for easier removal. Japanese people have tiny hands. I suppose it's easier if you have on-pedal master cylinders and e-p/s.
Arguments i've been reading on the 240 forums involve using oem connectors over weatherpack. I'm assuming this wouldn't apply to us since our clips fail from being brittle as **** and snap anyway? Weatherpack or factory bnib oem?
THICK motherfucking groundssssss.
Thick power wires and everything in the harness was given slack to allow for easier removal. Japanese people have tiny hands. I suppose it's easier if you have on-pedal master cylinders and e-p/s.
Arguments i've been reading on the 240 forums involve using oem connectors over weatherpack. I'm assuming this wouldn't apply to us since our clips fail from being brittle as **** and snap anyway? Weatherpack or factory bnib oem?
10-26-10, 04:33 AM
#31
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I tore everything out....
Built this guy:
and made a basic switch panel... **** took FOREVER to do -but came out nice...
I do not have turn signals (just hazards) and I ditched the pop-ups -but you could wire wither of them up pretty easily
Built this guy:
and made a basic switch panel... **** took FOREVER to do -but came out nice...
I do not have turn signals (just hazards) and I ditched the pop-ups -but you could wire wither of them up pretty easily
10-26-10, 08:47 AM
#33
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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From my post in the race tech section-
I will link to the thread in a moment.
Link to thread: https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tech-103/track-car-wiring-help-926236/
mmmmm I have a painless wiring "wiring kit" with the flying leads and switchbox, and while it would be very useful if I had to quickly wire up a dune buggy or dirt oval car, I would not put it in something I cared about. My biggest complaints are that it is a heavy, clunky piece that I am sure WILL work, but has no place in a race car.
I think you need to be more specific as to what you need to wire up. My FC turbo race car (road race, hillclimb, and drift) has only the following wiring:
Battery cables to starter, main cutoff switch
ground cables directly to transmission and chassis
8ga (IRRC) wires for fuel pump and power distribution block (fuse block, provides power to ECU, Coils, and injectors)
wires run (but not currently in use) for brake lights
Fuel pump relay (mounted about 8 inches from the fuel pump, triggers to ground allowing a 18ga trigger wire from the ECU)
Engine harness consisting off-
ECU connectors, OEM (using the AEM ECU) NOTE- brand new connectors are available and not expensive, since Honda and Mitsubushi use the exact same connectors on various models
AEM Wideband controller with sensor
4 Bosch injector clips
1 OEM Mazda connector for ballast resistor pack, harness side
1 coolant temp sensor connector
1 AEM 3bar MAP sensor pigtail
1 GM AIT pigtail
1 4-pin DTM male connector (replaces OE Mazda CAS connector)
1 4-pin DTM female connector (Harness side of CAS)
1 OEM Mazda TPS connector
1 OE Mitsubishi Ignition amplifier (ignitor) connector, for V6 DIS systems
1 DTM 6 pin connector, for AEM Wideband
1 2-pin MOLEX male connector and terminals, SPA fan
1 2-pin MOLEX female connector and terminals, harness side SPA fan
2 SPST toggle switches, silver contacts main power on, ignition/ECU on
1 momentary switch, starter
STACK 8100 DASH (currently), complete with its own harness and the following sensors-
coolant temp
oil temp
oil press
fuel press
boost press
beacon
or NORMALLY
AIM Mychron3 Gold MXLOG Dash with the follwing sensors and thier wiring
oil pressure
oil temperature
brake pressure (fnt)
brake pressure (rear)
fuel pressure
beacon
(all other data- TPS, AFR, Coolant temp, etc- comes from the AEM ECU)
Thats pretty much it- an ON switch for the main power, another to turn on the EMS, and the start button Pretty damned simple. There is no need for a dozen switches to control fans (that are controlled by the ECU), fuel pumps (also should be controlled by the ECU) dash (always on when the power is on), a dozen BS gauges when a single dash will do a better job, or switches to trun on and off a million various lights etc. Nothing that isnt needed. I do have a secondary harness to add lights for the front of the car and tail lights for the rear should I need them, but its not a permenant sort of thing. And there is another "auxilary" harness for a drivers cool suit, fresh air system, and that sort of thing, but again, its not permenant.
This is all my opinion of course, but if it looks like it belongs on a tractor it doesnt belong on a race car, and even wiring weighs something, and there is no need to add something that weighs something just because.
I think you need to be more specific as to what you need to wire up. My FC turbo race car (road race, hillclimb, and drift) has only the following wiring:
Battery cables to starter, main cutoff switch
ground cables directly to transmission and chassis
8ga (IRRC) wires for fuel pump and power distribution block (fuse block, provides power to ECU, Coils, and injectors)
wires run (but not currently in use) for brake lights
Fuel pump relay (mounted about 8 inches from the fuel pump, triggers to ground allowing a 18ga trigger wire from the ECU)
Engine harness consisting off-
ECU connectors, OEM (using the AEM ECU) NOTE- brand new connectors are available and not expensive, since Honda and Mitsubushi use the exact same connectors on various models
AEM Wideband controller with sensor
4 Bosch injector clips
1 OEM Mazda connector for ballast resistor pack, harness side
1 coolant temp sensor connector
1 AEM 3bar MAP sensor pigtail
1 GM AIT pigtail
1 4-pin DTM male connector (replaces OE Mazda CAS connector)
1 4-pin DTM female connector (Harness side of CAS)
1 OEM Mazda TPS connector
1 OE Mitsubishi Ignition amplifier (ignitor) connector, for V6 DIS systems
1 DTM 6 pin connector, for AEM Wideband
1 2-pin MOLEX male connector and terminals, SPA fan
1 2-pin MOLEX female connector and terminals, harness side SPA fan
2 SPST toggle switches, silver contacts main power on, ignition/ECU on
1 momentary switch, starter
STACK 8100 DASH (currently), complete with its own harness and the following sensors-
coolant temp
oil temp
oil press
fuel press
boost press
beacon
or NORMALLY
AIM Mychron3 Gold MXLOG Dash with the follwing sensors and thier wiring
oil pressure
oil temperature
brake pressure (fnt)
brake pressure (rear)
fuel pressure
beacon
(all other data- TPS, AFR, Coolant temp, etc- comes from the AEM ECU)
Thats pretty much it- an ON switch for the main power, another to turn on the EMS, and the start button Pretty damned simple. There is no need for a dozen switches to control fans (that are controlled by the ECU), fuel pumps (also should be controlled by the ECU) dash (always on when the power is on), a dozen BS gauges when a single dash will do a better job, or switches to trun on and off a million various lights etc. Nothing that isnt needed. I do have a secondary harness to add lights for the front of the car and tail lights for the rear should I need them, but its not a permenant sort of thing. And there is another "auxilary" harness for a drivers cool suit, fresh air system, and that sort of thing, but again, its not permenant.
This is all my opinion of course, but if it looks like it belongs on a tractor it doesnt belong on a race car, and even wiring weighs something, and there is no need to add something that weighs something just because.
Link to thread: https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tech-103/track-car-wiring-help-926236/
10-28-10, 02:44 PM
#35
you have a stack cluster?
Bastard. I hate you. Lol.
My poor *** is going to try to adopt a z31 digital dash into my steeze over the winter. The hard part is finding one in working condition and all the wiring. Yay. It serves no purpose other than to keep me busy.
Bastard. I hate you. Lol.
My poor *** is going to try to adopt a z31 digital dash into my steeze over the winter. The hard part is finding one in working condition and all the wiring. Yay. It serves no purpose other than to keep me busy.
12-04-10, 12:15 AM
#36
HKS obsessed
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I'm just learning about wiring and everything now and trying to learn more, so sorry if this is a stupid question, but those ground boxes on the left of this? Where do you pick those up at? And the boxes in the middle are the fuses right? I know the right one's are relays just trying to get this all figured out.
12-04-10, 02:51 AM
#38
Yep. I encourage everyone to post in here as much as possible as often as possible.
I've got a non rotor motor going in this upcomming spring hopefully and i have to wire EVERYTHING from the dash forwards.....
Hooray.
Oh well. I haven't had any problems with voltage drop, cut, stalling....etc... My gas mileage is waaaaaaay the hell better than what it was and throttle response is heaps better. It's a damn shame i have to do it all over again.
I've got a non rotor motor going in this upcomming spring hopefully and i have to wire EVERYTHING from the dash forwards.....
Hooray.
Oh well. I haven't had any problems with voltage drop, cut, stalling....etc... My gas mileage is waaaaaaay the hell better than what it was and throttle response is heaps better. It's a damn shame i have to do it all over again.
12-04-10, 09:00 AM
#39
i need to get on this **** for my racecar. really want my wiring super easy to get at, and very easy to replace fuses/relays in the event something goes wrong. honestly am thinking of throwing everything in the glove box (making a custom backing plate like above) but just tucked in there so whoever is helping doesnt have to be upside down in a fixed back bride seat ripping it up trying to access the fusepanel. lol super easy, OEM looking, yet very race ready.
this thread is the start of something super epic.
this thread is the start of something super epic.
12-04-10, 04:40 PM
#40
Good point bringing up the fixed back with stock fuse box location. You gotta be a ******* contortionist to get to it. Mission impossible with a flashlight in your mouth....
Bleh.... New ecu and harness. Harness is in great shape. Some of the plugs are fucked up on the motor either from loading it, un loading it or whatever. Dunno. So weatherpack connector bundle is a must.
Where are you guys ordering your bfs (big ******* spools) of wire from?
Bleh.... New ecu and harness. Harness is in great shape. Some of the plugs are fucked up on the motor either from loading it, un loading it or whatever. Dunno. So weatherpack connector bundle is a must.
Where are you guys ordering your bfs (big ******* spools) of wire from?
12-04-10, 04:56 PM
#41
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I'm just learning about wiring and everything now and trying to learn more, so sorry if this is a stupid question, but those ground boxes on the left of this? Where do you pick those up at? And the boxes in the middle are the fuses right? I know the right one's are relays just trying to get this all figured out.
I got everything from here: http://www.delcity.net/
It was about $400 worth of stuff to do both chassis and engine harnesses. Making something like this takes patience and a lot of time... I have schematics drawn up on paper as well.
12-04-10, 06:03 PM
#43
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You just have to come up with a plan -put it on paper and go to it -1 wire at a time. The last thing you want to do is start chasing electrical problems...
12-06-10, 10:34 AM
#45
Bringing able to read schematics is key. Car wiring diagrams are cake to read so long as you haves a basic understanding of electrical principal and the symbols they use. Once you can read how the stock stuff works it isn't too hard to remove what's there with new equipment. Pulling wires is a pain in the dick especially on a car so it's much easier when you can look up connectors to back probe.
12-06-10, 02:04 PM
#46
Rotary for LIFE!
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Look into the ISIS system. BigAl is using the system in his 20B circuit racing car, I'm pretty well sold on the system and will use it when i build my FD race car.
Simplifies your looms a hell of a lot and makes troubleshooting much easier. For most loads you can wire them without relays up to 20 amps I think it was (could be more). Inputs are switched to ground as well making the loom behind the dash incredibly safe.
http://www.isispower.com/ Be sure to watch the videos that explain the system, it's 'different' from what most of us are used to, but it's a big improvement
Great system.
Simplifies your looms a hell of a lot and makes troubleshooting much easier. For most loads you can wire them without relays up to 20 amps I think it was (could be more). Inputs are switched to ground as well making the loom behind the dash incredibly safe.
http://www.isispower.com/ Be sure to watch the videos that explain the system, it's 'different' from what most of us are used to, but it's a big improvement
Great system.
12-06-10, 04:52 PM
#47
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Everything that Painless makes is garbage IMO and WAY overpriced.
Interesting -but I'm already set -that looks really nice though.
Look into the ISIS system. BigAl is using the system in his 20B circuit racing car, I'm pretty well sold on the system and will use it when i build my FD race car.
Simplifies your looms a hell of a lot and makes troubleshooting much easier. For most loads you can wire them without relays up to 20 amps I think it was (could be more). Inputs are switched to ground as well making the loom behind the dash incredibly safe.
http://www.isispower.com/ Be sure to watch the videos that explain the system, it's 'different' from what most of us are used to, but it's a big improvement
Great system.
Simplifies your looms a hell of a lot and makes troubleshooting much easier. For most loads you can wire them without relays up to 20 amps I think it was (could be more). Inputs are switched to ground as well making the loom behind the dash incredibly safe.
http://www.isispower.com/ Be sure to watch the videos that explain the system, it's 'different' from what most of us are used to, but it's a big improvement
Great system.
12-06-10, 05:00 PM
#48
I'll look into it when i can get on my other computer. This bitch doesn't have a sound card.
For any one of my primary electrical functions, i'd like to have an led wired in that lights up when there's a short/broken contact issue. Maybe red/green? Green means go. Red means throw **** and swear then calmly fix the issue on the connection you can VISIBLY see on the dash light. I dont plan on running my idiot cluster.
For any one of my primary electrical functions, i'd like to have an led wired in that lights up when there's a short/broken contact issue. Maybe red/green? Green means go. Red means throw **** and swear then calmly fix the issue on the connection you can VISIBLY see on the dash light. I dont plan on running my idiot cluster.
