So i was gonna go with -16 AN off the rad to the coolant housing. Is that legit or too bottle neck?

 

The ones my buddy did on his 1U 240 were -20.

heres a conversion chart

http://www.gre6.com/ansize

I'd do -20... the -16 might cause the water pump to cavitate. Bigger is always Baller.

 

An is petty easy to figure out.

If you have a 1.5in ID hose 24AN corresponds, 1.25ID 20AN and so on.

16AN is easy to find, 20AN is harder and 24AN is almost impossible.

 

I'm using -16

 

-16 is SR sized AN's.

FC is -24 but -20 is easier to come across. theyre like $75/per fitting.... but it is worth it.

if you're doing all that why not just rear mount the radiator, and run electric water pump like the gangster ASD cars?

 

yea im gonna get an electric water pump soon. so captivation of the oem pump might be an issue?

twinchargedrx7: your experience wit -16 has been good?

 

When you have the restriction of the smaller fitting/hose, the water pump might not be able to move as much coolant through it causing it to cavitate... Kind of like if you put a piece of cardboard behind a box fan and you hear the speed of the fan really pick up, or a speed boat with too much power and incorrect prop pitch, and it just revs and doesnt go anywhere.

I've seen cars (not FC's) cavitate the pump just because of the combination of underdrive pulleys and high rev's. It wont circulate the coolant and overheat the car. The smaller fittings would just add to the problem of spinning the water pump faster than the hose/fitting will allow the coolant to flow.

Heres some fittings... 3 minutes on summit's search.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-997124ERL/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-300124ERL/

you're looking $100 per hose end for the weld in AN bung, and the AN hose end.



ASD gets **** done.

 

yea i already priced every thing out with black anodized. i would never rock the red/blue anodized fittings...

i also have the pulleys(main and alternator) to help with cavitation