Sound Deadening Advice
12-18-10, 11:18 PM
#1
Dustin Becktold
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Sound Deadening Advice
So I'm finally removing all the sound deadening from the FC and was just wondering what to do about the stuff on the seams? It seems to not break off as easily as the rest and be pretty gooey. Is there a reason for that? What should I do......
A. leave it alone to create some minor support between surfaces?
B. just remove it and call it good?
C. remove it and stitch weld the pieces formally under the goo?
D. something else.
A. leave it alone to create some minor support between surfaces?
B. just remove it and call it good?
C. remove it and stitch weld the pieces formally under the goo?
D. something else.
12-19-10, 02:13 AM
#2
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You are using dry ice right? It shouldn't be gooey if you are using enough of it... Dry ice, hammer, shop vac, done. Sound deadening should not be doing any "support", it's sound deadening. 
12-19-10, 03:09 AM
#3
best solution man, is to wire wheel it off because its hooked into glue for the seams..
although for the edges, if you use a bottle of compressed air for dusting (electronics, keyboards etc) and hold it upside down, and let all the icey **** come out it will work the best if you dont have access to a wirewheel/drill.
samsclub/walmart whatever has the deal of like 10 spray duster cans for under $20
although for the edges, if you use a bottle of compressed air for dusting (electronics, keyboards etc) and hold it upside down, and let all the icey **** come out it will work the best if you dont have access to a wirewheel/drill.
samsclub/walmart whatever has the deal of like 10 spray duster cans for under $20
12-19-10, 03:11 AM
#4
taking out the tar with dry ice!
moving/crushing it all up to get into all the crevices.
after like ten mins, one sides just about done.
made a base plate.
seriously atleast 20lbs of sound deadening just in the front...
the rest of the **** is out of the hatch. getting ready to mock up the main hoop.
some pics of when i did it to my FC to help out.
also if you crush/pile up the dry ice/tar chunks into powder and move it towards the edges (firewall/trans tunnel/storage bins area) it should cool it enough to break it all off. all i used was a hammer to break it all apart..
moving/crushing it all up to get into all the crevices.
after like ten mins, one sides just about done.
made a base plate.
seriously atleast 20lbs of sound deadening just in the front...
the rest of the **** is out of the hatch. getting ready to mock up the main hoop.
some pics of when i did it to my FC to help out.
also if you crush/pile up the dry ice/tar chunks into powder and move it towards the edges (firewall/trans tunnel/storage bins area) it should cool it enough to break it all off. all i used was a hammer to break it all apart..
12-19-10, 03:15 AM
#5
the main pieces do come off really easily, although up where the dead pedal is, the center console (by shifter hole) and the rear seem behind the rear of the front seats before the storage bins have seems, that are glued together, and the tar is combined with the glue in all cases from when the factory installed the tar.
the heat like molds it together so theres always some ugly chunks hanging around.
for all the residue, if you dont feel like slinging tar all around the inside of your car, you can use laquer thinner on a rag, and wipe off the rest of the black marks.
medium reducer works cool too, but is more effort. wear a mask, or ventilator.. you will be high as **** if you dont. dont ask how i know...
12-19-10, 02:59 PM
#6
Yeah. Solvent vapors **** you up.
So does that air duster **** and it's NOT GOOD FOR YOU so do wear a mask, even if you're outdoors. I've gotten vapors from fiberglassing inside my car for doing some shaving and the combination of my brush for thinner and the resin sitting in a hatch open to air had me literally fall out of the car short of breath. Great way to get yourself injured.
So does that air duster **** and it's NOT GOOD FOR YOU so do wear a mask, even if you're outdoors. I've gotten vapors from fiberglassing inside my car for doing some shaving and the combination of my brush for thinner and the resin sitting in a hatch open to air had me literally fall out of the car short of breath. Great way to get yourself injured.
12-19-10, 08:14 PM
#7
don't ever put super glue, on kevlar fabric....
**** makes mustard gas faster than mustard gas...
i was super gluing the fabric on my BMX seat one time because it ripped and was brand new, **** you not thought i was going to lose my eyes. it immediately turned into gas/white steam and went into my eye....
**** makes mustard gas faster than mustard gas...
i was super gluing the fabric on my BMX seat one time because it ripped and was brand new, **** you not thought i was going to lose my eyes. it immediately turned into gas/white steam and went into my eye....
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12-19-10, 09:21 PM
#8
Dustin Becktold
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the main pieces do come off really easily, although up where the dead pedal is, the center console (by shifter hole) and the rear seem behind the rear of the front seats before the storage bins have seems, that are glued together, and the tar is combined with the glue in all cases from when the factory installed the tar.
the heat like molds it together so theres always some ugly chunks hanging around.
for all the residue, if you dont feel like slinging tar all around the inside of your car, you can use laquer thinner on a rag, and wipe off the rest of the black marks.
medium reducer works cool too, but is more effort. wear a mask, or ventilator.. you will be high as **** if you dont. dont ask how i know...
the heat like molds it together so theres always some ugly chunks hanging around.
for all the residue, if you dont feel like slinging tar all around the inside of your car, you can use laquer thinner on a rag, and wipe off the rest of the black marks.
medium reducer works cool too, but is more effort. wear a mask, or ventilator.. you will be high as **** if you dont. dont ask how i know...
that's exactly what i was talking about. it's all breezy until i hit those few spots and then bam, super goo. it's not hard to take it off i just wanna make sure it's ok. it seems a lot stronger and i didn't want to take it off if it's adding some sort of strength. it wouldn't suprise me at all if some little asian dude over there figured out a way to make the glue have some weird weld-like property lol. it's a streach but i like to cover my bases.
12-19-10, 09:25 PM
#9
Dustin Becktold
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oh and atleast 20lbs? i've been keeping mine in a paper bag and just from the rear half of the car i got like 10lbs out i swear. i never thought it'd add up so fast.
12-25-10, 02:19 PM
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Dry Ice works best when if you don't crush it up. (opinion) Lasts longer.
I just left it in the bag, uncrushed, and let it work it's magic setting it wherever i needed it.
I just left it in the bag, uncrushed, and let it work it's magic setting it wherever i needed it.
12-26-10, 09:22 AM
#14
definitely does last longer. i only bought 3lbs to do my whole car so thats why there are some tar stains still in certain spots....
this time im going to buy way more to make it right.
as for the crushing, i couldnt seem to get it to work much for me when it was in solid form...
when i crushed it, it would litterally crack all the tar on its own. i would lift it off in huge sections.. if you spread it across each "slab" of tar evenly, the whole section will come up as one usually.
everycar is different though, so im sure both ways can be beneficial. just saying what worked best for me.
this time im going to buy way more to make it right.
as for the crushing, i couldnt seem to get it to work much for me when it was in solid form...
when i crushed it, it would litterally crack all the tar on its own. i would lift it off in huge sections.. if you spread it across each "slab" of tar evenly, the whole section will come up as one usually.
everycar is different though, so im sure both ways can be beneficial. just saying what worked best for me.
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