so everyone on here agrees that you need alot of rear camber "compensation" for slamming the old 7's. can anyone tell me what length most of the rear camber adjuster bars adjust from? and what size hardware and rod ends did they come with? i have some radius rods from an uncles old sprint car and i was thinking of chopping and welding new threaded bungs at the right length but i don't know to go shorter or longer than stock?

also rear toe links? any dimensions, hardware sizes, rod end sizes, etc?

how about the small camber links on the subframe... how short should i go?

ps, does anyone want some snowmobile tie rods and ends? i've got a stack of ski-doo-doo ones for free to the board members. picked up of course range from 19in-26in all with 8mm hardware and rod ends with studs like a tie rod end. actually like a smaller version of the adjustable toe links. i used one for an engine torque brace to the strut tower.

 

What the ****?


Always go shorter to remove negative camber btw.

Invest in a ruler, digital calipers, logic, common sense....... I'm not trying to be a dick. Just go down there and measure the ****. Test fit parts. That helps too. Get your damn hands dirty.

 

believe me with a fleet of 80 rental boats, 35 waverunners, 128 snowmobiles, a dozen work trucks, a dozen snowmobile trailers, 75boat trailers, 5 waverunner trailers, a d5 cat, a john deer ag tractor, a forklift, a paddlewheel boat, my rx7, isuzu trooper and vw caddy, not to mention all of my friends, family's, and thier friends and families cars i get plenty f'n dirty. in fact my hands never EVER look clean. sorry if i offended you cuz i wanted to make the most of my only day off to work on my car.

 

it was a simple question dont gotta beat him up about it..

sorry man wish i knew so i could have a positive post in this thread...

 

Nobody got beat up about it.


Jack up the car and measure. It's THREE parts, all accessible without removing a thing. Should take you FIVE MINUTES with a pen, paper, ruler and calipers.

My car is up in the air right now and i'm not doing it. Why? Because it's stupid to ask someone to save you FIVE MINUTES out of your ONE DAY OFF. Choose not to fap on that one day and you've made up your five minutes.

 

who spends 5 minutes fapping??? quick and dirty bro. quick and dirty.

i also don't have the information you seek. sorry.

 

If i take my dogbones out and mess with my suspension next weekend, i'll provide the information. Just to make good for being a ******** about it. Lol.

 

Just make the dogbones as short as you can without stuff binding up.

 

Distance between the 2 mounts on the LCA will give you your radius. Use this radius to calculate the circumference and divide by 360*. This will give you a rough idea of how much distance to shorten the doglink for a given camber change.

 

Ummm... let's just say that you can't go short enough. So shorten them as much as possible. No need to get all crazy with science.

 

Leave like a 1/4" of distance between the outer rings that hold the bushings is what i was thinking. You can buy heim turnbuckles at mcmastercarr iirc but you'd never be able to get the adjustment out of them you'd want. Seems alot easier to have em cut and welded.