Anyone interested in pics on this more than simple task? S4 T2 diffs are easier and more strong welded in my opinion than ANY open diff that's been welded.

 

the thing is a s4t2 diff has clutch plates. When I welded mine, I actually gutted the plates and made the diff alot lighter[less rotating mass], TIG welded the stub axle housing to the diff casing. Essentially I have a naked diff, super light weight, helps me get more wheel spin on the low end.


Welding a open diff is awesome, because there is more points to weld and penetrate so it will hold to higher breaking point.. But na diffs are weak, not the actuall diff itself, but the stub axles snap easily

 

Yes same here with the gutting. And i personally think the t2 diff looked more strong welded than an open..

 

I'm down for pix

 

As long as this thread is on the topic... I have a stock gxl diff. So being clutch type lsd is it still just as weak as the n/a as far as the stories of the stub axles and the welded n/a diff blowing?

Will an n/a put out enough power to blow it up drifting if it was welded?

Basically Im stuck between either shimming or welding... shimming isnt worth the time if its gunna wear out fast but neither is welding if my stub axles snap or the diff blows. Not saying I dont want to work on it just that I dont want to pull the diff a month after I weld or shim.

 

You'll be fine with n/a power. My current n/a diff and stub shafts have lasted over a year with about 400whp.

 

Yes, but how much torque? haha

I drifted NA with NA welded diff for a while. Should be perfectly fine.

 

Enough to do drifting.

 

Seriously, I was super afraid of mine breaking if I ever swapped for more power. Are you welded or like a GTU or GXL LSD?

 

best
answer
evar

 

It's just a welded open diff. They're definitely not strong at all, but my stuff has always stayed together pretty good. Just don't get a gnarly clutch that holds like a million ft-lbs.

 

Ok cool. I was thinking about just welding up my GTU diff since it probably needs a rebuild

 

looks like Im welding it up then... haha I wont ever be anywhere near 400hp so Im sure it wont be a big deal. But I love clutch kicks, oh well I need to work on other ways of initiating anyways.

 

ive used an na welded diff with a 6port turbo setup while clutch kicking to redline no issues, should be fine

 

Im talking about welding a T2 diff. Ill get pics soon.

 

Use the half shafts to align the spider gears while being welded, if available. But t2 when gutted should be a stronger unit.

 

In to see pics

 

 

Is it still in the housing when you welded it?

 

^lol.

No you take the whole thing out and weld it. That guy is being funny...

 

the rust, dirt and hairs obviously.

 

you just weld the stuff that you dont want to move anymore.

 

pull diff
remove clutch packs
brake clean/purple power diff unit.
weld diff
reinstall

chong.

 

Dumb question, I can't really tell in the pic. Do you weld the gears to the housing thing they sit in? I'm guessing yes since the housing drops down when you don't have the clutch plates in.

I'm thinking take the gears out, put them in one side of the housing, weld the gears (to keep them lined up), put the other side of the housing on and weld the other side of the gears, then put both sides of the housing on and weld them together. Yes?... Or I guess you don't even need the housings?

 

I did that and went through the shims in like a week. It's just a track car so I'd rather have the predictability of a welded and not have to deal with the lsd.