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A reliable fd3s rear end? What works?

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Old 05-28-18, 02:59 PM
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A reliable fd3s rear end? What works?



How do you keep the rear end (diff) from tearing itself apart, what are you running?

Launch kit?
What type og diff?
Suspension, and springrates?
Diff brace og cradle?
Gear box mounts?

What kind of tyres have you found produce the least wheel hop/ tire shake?

Alignment settings?

Exploded a diff last summer, it was a stock thorsen.

I need a setup that can take a beating 😁

The 450hp 2 rotor fd will hold together i think, but its with the 3 rotor im afraid of blowing upp a diff.


Pumpkins are getting harder to find, and quite expensive 😒

Want to be able to do a few drift events this year 😁

I realy hope you could point me in the right direction 🙂

I do not want to do a 8,8 swap.
i need the strongest possible solution.
-Andreas
Old 05-28-18, 07:25 PM
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Buy a TII Clutch LSD diff. It is more durable than the Torsen, but you will probably break it eventually.

You’d be better off doing the 8.8 swap at your power level.
Old 05-30-18, 05:58 PM
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Saw this the other day, if I'm not mistaken, looks like a Winters - if it's the usual kiwi practice.

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Old 05-30-18, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by billyboy
Saw this the other day, if I'm not mistaken, looks like a Winters - if it's the usual kiwi practice.

https://www.facebook.com/madmike.w/p...type=3&theater

A trans worth more than the car.

Put an 8.8 in the car with the gear ratio and diff you want, and move on with your life. You'll never have to worry about it again.
Old 05-31-18, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by LargeOrangeFont
A trans worth more than the car.

Put an 8.8 in the car with the gear ratio and diff you want, and move on with your life. You'll never have to worry about it again.
The gearbox in the pic was hardly the point, but I'd agree, less grief with something entirely different. One of the cars down here does run a ZF diff ex BMW, which might have better availability over there. If he was to run a plate diff, TII or Mazdaspeed wouldn't be a first choice IMO, the other varieties might have you spending less time servicing the thing with bigger/more plates.
Old 06-01-18, 10:43 AM
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I do not want to do a 8,8 swap.
i need the strongest possible solution.
-Andreas
Not sure if you mean you do not want to do the 8.8 swap or you don't want to do any swap and holding up the 8.8 as example of most typical swap.

If you want to use the stock differential case I will outline your strongest scenario.

Differential-
OS Giken Super Lock- highest number of clutch plates (28) for longest service intervals and most gray area in lock-up


HPI 2 in 1 Differential brace-
This piece wraps around the thin cast iron differential case to reinforce it (cracking the case is the usual failure mode) as well as tying the differential nose back into the unibody to prevent the twisting movement through the case that cracks it. Born from SCCA SSM competition.



Banzai Racing transmission crossmember-
This piece ties the transmission to the chassis where the stock Aluminum brace would be. Limits the twisting force from the engine transmitted through the transmission to the powerplant frame down to the differential.


Your choice of aftermarket motor mounts-
Limit twisting force placed on trans, ppf, diff.

Diff mounts???
IDK. If you reinforce everything else and leave stock diff bushings you may cushion the differential case from twisting and impact the most with the stock liquid filled mounts.
Harder mounts on the fragile differential case could increase forces transmitted through the case.

If you do a 8.8 or other diff swap you basically need to do all the above as well- although specific pieces may vary.
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Old 06-01-18, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by BLUE TII
Not sure if you mean you do not want to do the 8.8 swap or you don't want to do any swap and holding up the 8.8 as example of most typical swap.

If you want to use the stock differential case I will outline your strongest scenario.

Differential-
OS Giken Super Lock- highest number of clutch plates (28) for longest service intervals and most gray area in lock-up


HPI 2 in 1 Differential brace-
This piece wraps around the thin cast iron differential case to reinforce it (cracking the case is the usual failure mode) as well as tying the differential nose back into the unibody to prevent the twisting movement through the case that cracks it. Born from SCCA SSM competition.



Banzai Racing transmission crossmember-
This piece ties the transmission to the chassis where the stock Aluminum brace would be. Limits the twisting force from the engine transmitted through the transmission to the powerplant frame down to the differential.


Your choice of aftermarket motor mounts-
Limit twisting force placed on trans, ppf, diff.

Diff mounts???
IDK. If you reinforce everything else and leave stock diff bushings you may cushion the differential case from twisting and impact the most with the stock liquid filled mounts.
Harder mounts on the fragile differential case could increase forces transmitted through the case.

If you do a 8.8 or other diff swap you basically need to do all the above as well- although specific pieces may vary.
my exact set up
OS Giken Diff, urethane Diff mounts, banzai trans brace and the Diff cradle. Don’t forget the Chromoly Axles...
add a Greddy cover and a Diff cooler. The Greddy cover allows additional fluid and has bungs for a cooler.

Old 06-02-18, 11:52 PM
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So you spend all that money on diffs and bracing and you are still stuck with a 4.10 or a 3.90 rear gear? I guess that is a better option if those gears choices work for you.

I’ve noticed that the FDs do run pretty high diff temps.

Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 06-02-18 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 06-03-18, 12:39 AM
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4.30,4.77 and 5.12 rear gears available too.

Remember, rotary.
Old 06-03-18, 05:38 AM
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ZoomZoom and blue TII.

this is what i am thinking to do.

any real life experience on how this setup holds upp?

i have banzai poly diff and engine mounts.

want to make the most of the eom pumpkin, and gearbox.
8.8 is to extreme for me.
also there are no 8.8 diffs laying around at junkyards in norway.

they are both road cars, and keeping the mazda driveline would be great

if something still gives, i will have to limit traction.

Last edited by Auning; 06-03-18 at 12:31 PM.
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